I could kick myself

[refeicul]

I use to be a member with the sn xxspikexx and i guess since i havent logged in, in quite a while its kinda dead.

well the page thread is still there http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ight=xxspikexx

well a recap and update

new accel coils with relay mod
new/used igniter

after a 200 mile trip blown fuses, fried igniter, burnt out bulbs in the cluster, and cooked a relay.

Replaced new/used igniter
new r/r
new relay, fuses...ect

Got spark!! Went to sync up the carbs after it warmed up a bit since its been... never! I shut everything off went refreshed myself with my GS and my sync tool. Went to start her up again and NO SPARK.. wtf.

Pulled wires and re did the relay wiring. checked the igniter, signal gen, coils, fuses, all connections and grounds. everything individually checked out. played with it for hours. on a whim i said screw it tried it for the 50th time BAM shotgun to the ear saw spark and got my garage shook by backfire.

I really cant come up with this one. Why i lost spark or why it came back.?

[bwringer]

Usually this means that you missed a bad or overheated connection somewhere. Probably more of a loose connection, making it intermittent.

When you replaced the fried stator and R/R, what did you find in the wiring that caused this?

Assuming you're reading good voltage at the coils thanks to your relay, it's still possible for a cooked connection elsewhere to keep the igniter from triggering the spark. Check voltages EVERYWHERE, and look hard at every connection.

You could also have a bad ground to the igniter or engine block.

I wish I could be more specific, but it's hard to do without seeing the bike in person. You anywhere near Indy?

Keep looking and you'll find it.

[refeicul]

well i poked around a bit more ya there was a loose connection for the coils just put spade connectors on. For the moment all seems well.

to answer your question ringer i dident replace the stator "yet" when the battery is all charged up and i am well rested ill check the charge rate at the battery terminals. almost a yr ago when it died 60 miles away from home, it sat at a friends house and i would take trips to poke around to see whats what. first thing i found was a bad igniter someone on this forum had a few so i bought several fearing it might die again. Checked the coils they were good. i noticed the r/r said honda on it. upon closer inspection i saw the "sense" wire was not hooked up. it looked beat up and as old as me so i just got a new one from ricks. I just thought that the old honda r/r was not hooked up properly caused over charging and fried a butt load of parts.

i have been getting a parts list together one thing is an updated fuse box just because i hate the tubes.. did i say hate? i mean HATE!
stator is another down the line but maybe sooner depending


lastly and sadly no i am in dirty jersey

[bwringer]

Sorry, for some reason I thought your stator had failed. Reading comprehension fail, or I was mashing your problem together with someone else's in my mind.

In any case, don't throw out that Honda R/R. Ganky-looking or not, I would bet that it still works fine when hooked up correctly. I've never seen one of these fail.

[refeicul]

hey who knows something said in here may cause a "House m.d." type of epiphany. So ya thanks!

[duaneage]

Get rid of that coil relay mod and properly wire the coils. If the voltage is low to the coils clean the Kill Switch and ignition switch. The bike will benefit from more voltage at the ignition switch and there won't be a bandaid around the problem.

Keep the Honda RR, when the Ricks goes bad you'll have a known good spare.

[posplayr]

Get rid of that coil relay mod and properly wire the coils. If the voltage is low to the coils clean the Kill Switch and ignition switch. The bike will benefit from more voltage at the ignition switch and there won't be a bandaid around the problem.

Keep the Honda RR, when the Ricks goes bad you'll have a known good spare.

"To mod or not to mod", the age old question

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1324671&highlight=coil+relay+mod#post1324671

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1316989&highlight=coil+relay+mod#post1316989

[refeicul]

Get rid of that coil relay mod and properly wire the coils.

Sigh... both arguments are valid. If your bike is running 100% as it should the above is correct. Because you are straddling almost 900lbs of metal with a bomb attached to it (the gas tank). why take any chances? so if you are riding it make it right and safe.


ok on a budget like most of us are the new $200 or + wiring harness isn't really an option. even if you "cleaned" every connection the original wires are still old and you cant clean the wire itself. so the mod is a good idea, if the mod'er is competent and can do it properly!

Also it is reversible so if good fortune and the clouds part one can buy the new harness and keep the mod on a shelf. just in case

[GSexpress]

Also 1 leg of the 3 phase goes throught the headlight switch in older models. This was to prevent over charging when the headlight was off. The wiring stayed the same for some years after the switch was modified to stay on. This simple circuit and it's connectors can be the source of many charging/overcharging problems. The connectors oxydize inside and start creating resistance that can cause intermitent problems. Alot of us just bypassed it altogrther and eliminated the conectors by soldering them together. A good aftermarket r/r kept everything in check.

[refeicul]

ya i did solder some of the connectors together. but with taking things apart and what not i ended up replaced the bullet connectors just for my own ease. i say about 85% of the connections in the headlamp have been redone the rest have been cleaned and lubed with ether dielectric grease or wd40

[refeicul]

i got all my paperwork ready so i can ride it again... it was ok before. started well idled well. came back 2 weeks later idles and dies when its warmed up a bit. not even to temp, just a little warm. it had good spark, compression. so i pulled the carbs off found the air jet was a bit small, and there was fuel on the airbox boots so i checked and set the float height throw everything together and prime the carbs... now the starter sounded louder as if i was jumping it. (i wasn't just a freshly charged battery) but now no spark. coils, and sig gen check out haven't checked the igniter but i doubt thats it

[refeicul]

Also 1 leg of the 3 phase goes throught the headlight switch in older models. This was to prevent over charging when the headlight was off. The wiring stayed the same for some years after the switch was modified to stay on. This simple circuit and it's connectors can be the source of many charging/overcharging problems. The connectors oxydize inside and start creating resistance that can cause intermitent problems. Alot of us just bypassed it altogrther and eliminated the conectors by soldering them together. A good aftermarket r/r kept everything in check.

ya i have all the legs of the stator going to the r/r

[refeicul]

well today i swaped the igniter with a spare that i had on the shelf and tada spark... never assume sigh