Cheap SERIES(????) R/R : VRRPM3 from OMP

[Nessism]

The first lemming just jumped.... I should have one of these in my hands sometime next week.

Will report back

Awesome Dan! Someone's got to be the leader.

I'm another with no interest in Facebook.

[posplayr]

I did go though the face book page and could not find anything specific to this being a series r/r. It would be nice but I have my doubts

[mforbes]

Good price, hope it works out great. I really like the CE-902 I put on my gs1100g. I have a digital voltage gauge on the bike and it holds steady right at 13.8 volts. Not like the OEM I had. The voltage jumped up and down while traveling down the road. Over 400 miles on it, since the install.

[Guest]

The wire size alone makes me wonder about the durability of the units. I'll keep my Compufire and put a Compufire on the next bike.

[koolaid_kid]

Any updates on this? Enquiring minds would like to know.

[tkent02]

The wire size alone makes me wonder about the durability of the units. I'll keep my Compufire and put a Compufire on the next bike.

Seems like the wire size could safely be smaller as it's a series regulator, it's only carrying the current the bike needs, not carrying a bunch extra to dump through the regulator. A bit of current to replace what was used in the start, then just enough to run the lights and ignition and stuff?
No EE expert here, it just seems that way.

[salty_monk]

Unit just turned up. No markings on it. No time to fit it yet, I think Nessism has a campfire so we should be able to compare. Looks very similar from the pics I've seen.

Tony at Oregon seems to know his stuff from the emails I've had from him.

How do we independently determine if this is series? I only have a regular multimeter.

Dan

[posplayr]

Unit just turned up. No markings on it. No time to fit it yet, I think Nessism has a campfire so we should be able to compare. Looks very similar from the pics I've seen.

Tony at Oregon seems to know his stuff from the emails I've had from him.

How do we independently determine if this is series? I only have a regular multimeter.

Dan

Dan,
The direct way would be to measure the AC current at 500 Hz but we already talked about that; a $20 meter won't do it.

You might be able to compare a SHUNT type with a SERIES type by monitoring the AC Voltage. Depends on the volt meter of course but when as teh RPM goes up the voltage will go up but then stop stop rising as the as SHUNT shorts the winding pairs. On the other hand the SERIES will open up the leg causing the voltage (during that phase to rise to open circuit). So the AC voltage should keep going up on an RMS basis.

I would see if it is not just simply a SCR SHUNT type by testing for a full wave rectifier (see the diode tests for the R/R). Neither the FET SHUNT of SERIES should have the full wave rectifier and would fail at least 1/2 of those tests; they use synchronous rectification which is the main reason they stay cooler.

Jim

[tkent02]

Plug it in and go for a ride. If it is a series regulator, the stator cover should stay a lot colder, right?

[posplayr]

Plug it in and go for a ride. If it is a series regulator, the stator cover should stay a lot colder, right?

That is true, but it is a pretty circumstantial test for declaring it a SERIES R/R. You would at least want to go back to back SHUNT to SERIES. Even then the results are likely to be inconclusive due to multiple variables. See the winding open and current drop to zero in the stator is conclusive.

The scope trace here shows what happend when the phase opens; voltage goes up, current drops to zero and power drops to zero (during the time the phase is open).

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1395413&postcount=26

[duaneage]

Plug it in and go for a ride. If it is a series regulator, the stator cover should stay a lot colder, right?

Not if there is hot oil behind it. On a dry stator model you might detect a difference but not likely since it's bolted on to the engine.

[posplayr]

Not if there is hot oil behind it. On a dry stator model you might detect a difference but not likely since it's bolted on to the engine.

I saw a substantial drop in both oil operating temperature and temperature as felt with the hand after switching to a SERIES R/R on my 1100ED. At least one other member that I can recall saw similar.

UPDATE; Wheat dog has confirmed a nominal 30 degF drop in operating temp for an 83 GS1100ED with 1166 kit after making this change over to the Compufire-Fire R/R

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=162677

[posplayr]

IF your power requirement at the time is minimal, such as a fully charged battery, not a large draw, etc.

- JC

At Higher RPM (>5K RPM) the generator is putting out too much so the SHUNT R/R's short the windings converting excess to heat. The SERIES produces heat in the stator but it is only what is required to supply the load not to shunt the power.

[tkent02]

I would think any time except for the first few minutes after a start, it would have to result in cooler oil. I bet it does almost as much good for the oil temp as those lame oil coolers, without any chance of springing a leak... (Bending over for ensuing flames) Anyway I will buy a few of these as soon as anyone who knows about these things says for sure it is a true series regulator.

[posplayr]

Correct. But if the load is great, no shunting, both perform basically the same and at the same levels. It is when you do NOT have a "full" load that the differences become evident.

So will it result in a cooler running bike? Maybe. But not always.

Efficiency is always good, and from your explanations it should result in good longevity. But lower running temps might be an anecdotal effect, not a guaranteed result.

- JC

A correctly running and charging bike overcharges at higher rpm. U might have a flat batter but that is not proper. I fail to see how measured results(ie lower temp) could be interpreted as antidotal?