It is stator time for my 850

[pistolpete]

That was excactly what I did. I replaced all the bullet conectors with blade type and wired my stator directly to the rr and then wired the rr directly to the battey. charging system works beautifully now.

[TPL]

I just went through this on my GS1100GK. I bought a new stator and the R/R was NOS Suzuki. It still only charged 13.5V at idle and that dropped off as the RPMs grew, which meant 15 minutes of riding and the battery was dead. In the end, it was the wires that plugged into the R/R. They looked fine at first glance, but they were intenally corroded/burnt and were probably arcing. I had to cut off the connector and put 5 individual female blade connectors onto the wires to the R/R - and it fixed the problem. Charging at 14V+ at idle and about 13.5V at 5000RPM. Look CLOSELY at the harness - you will probably see wiring that has corrosion at the connectors - thats where the voltage is being spent. Bend some wires, if they're stiff or rock-hard then they are toast.

Yep, it looks like I have the same issue, I got to get a new cover gasket on order but tomorrow I'll seek out new connectors locally.

[posplayr]

that stator is probably still functional but probably only has 1/3 of it's life left. If I had the cash I would go ahead and replace it and do the connections as you already i ndicated. retest to insure charging is functional.

[TPL]

that stator is probably still functional but probably only has 1/3 of it's life left. If I had the cash I would go ahead and replace it and do the connections as you already i ndicated. retest to insure charging is functional.

Yea, not a bad idea. I skimmed through your thread about this issue and think I may just solder and use heat shrink wrap in stead of connectors. Thanks for all the work you put into the thread.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152769

[Ranger]

I have a fully functioning stator from my 700 if it works for your bike. If you need one let me know.

[TPL]

I have a fully functioning stator from my 700 if it works for your bike. If you need one let me know.

Ranger, thanks for the offer

[Rocketman]

One quick question....for those who wired their RR(+) directly to the battery (+), rather than going through the stock harness bullet connectors....
Did you just go with a similar gauge wire alone, or put an in-line fuse in the wire? If so, what amp fuse?

[Rocketman]

Sorry, one more...I've been told its better to solder the connections inside the fuse box itself. Here's mine opened up and it looks brand new to me. Should I leave it alone since its in this condition?

[TPL]

I got my new stator and R/R today, the R/R, SHINDENGEN FH012AA will be a direct bolt up with no modification, screw holes match. I will be using an inline fuse instead of the original wiring in the bike to the fuse box, the new wire is 10g. The new stator has longer wires than the original with bullet connectors, I will lose the bullet connectors and only have to use the new blade connectors at the new R/R, so no inline connectors will be needed. I'm still waiting on my mag cover gasket but will at least get all the wiring done today.

[TPL]

The new stator installed, Extra long wiring a plus, plenty to run directly to the R/R. Bullet connectors will be history.

[Nessism]

The new stator installed, Extra long wiring a plus, plenty to run directly to the R/R. Bullet connectors will be history.

Nice work!

Nothing wrong with bullets as long as they are the proper size for the wires.

[posplayr]

Nice work!

Nothing wrong with bullets as long as they are the proper size for the wires.

Is that a "theoretical speaking" comment ?

[TPL]

Nice work!

Nothing wrong with bullets as long as they are the proper size for the wires.

Thanks, I just assume do away with all connectors, other than the ones at the new R/R plugs. Well I have the complete new charging system wired/assembled and ready to go in. Ground will bolt to the engine where the neg battery terminal goes. I thought about adding additional ground for redundancy but I think it is not needed.

All wires to R/R are soldered and crimped to the blade connectors before inserted in to the connector housing at the R/R. The stator wires cannot be clicked in to the R/R connector housing until the wiring is routed. All wires also have a blue grommet to seal out any moisture in the R/R connector housings.

[TPL]

The schematic shows the original pos to the original R/R was only tied in to the pos ignition line, and the w/g and w/r wires are just a loop for a headlamp switch, none on the 1982. All will be capped with shrink tube.

[posplayr]

Sorry, one more...I've been told its better to solder the connections inside the fuse box itself. Here's mine opened up and it looks brand new to me. Should I leave it alone since its in this condition?

Rockert man, that does look like anice condition fuse box so I certainly would not worry about replacing it. I would tun it up a little though. If you putsome navel jelly on the contacts and crimps it will make the brass shiney again. I would then at least try and low some solder into the crimps. On the two lower left and right crimps you should be able to get some heat int the crimp and get solder to wick up into the crimp without melting the plastic. That will prevent further corrosion when the wire contact interface is.

I dont know about the top crimps, the ends of the wire seem to be blind. Maybe a little dielectic grease to keep mositure out.