Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Series Regulator Source SH775

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    I'd really like to see what on a scope... Posplayr also suggested to me that a decent clamp meter might be able to show the necessary info, you wouldn't get the nice graph obviously but you could physically witness it.

    You are basically looking for when it goes open circuit.

    Dan
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
      I'd really like to see what on a scope... Posplayr also suggested to me that a decent clamp meter might be able to show the necessary info, you wouldn't get the nice graph obviously but you could physically witness it.

      You are basically looking for when it goes open circuit.

      Dan
      Dan,
      When you compare a Shunt to a SERIES R/R you should see much less current in each leg of the stator with the SERIES. I plotted the comparison I observed between the FET and CF a while back.
      So all you need is for something to measure average AC current. Most cheap AC current clamps are designed for 60 hz only. At 5000 RPM you will be looking at 500 hz for an 18 pole stator. So the question is whether an AC clamp has any effectiveness at this frequency and even if not accurate can it compare the SERIES to SHUNT R/R on a relative basis at least.
      A bunch of ifs
      Jim

      Comment


        #33
        So we need to find a budget version of this Fluke.... (Actually this is not expensive either at $105.)

        Grainger is your premier industrial supplies and equipment provider with over one million products to keep you up and running. Use Grainger.com for fast and easy ordering with next-day delivery available. Rely on our product experts for 24/7 support.
        1980 GS1000G - Sold
        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

        Comment


          #34
          No, that one does 50Hz (Europe) and 60Hz (USA).
          Your best bet would be to find one that works on military aircraft (600 Hz).
          This one would probably work: 400 Hz clamp meter
          Just don't rev the engine quite as high.

          Comment


            #35
            Maybe you missed this bit on that page... Or maybe I'm reading it completely wrong! (I'm a know enough to be dangerous sort of electrical guy & I think I am reading volts & you were perhaps concerned about the current).

            AC Volts (50hz - 500hz) Ranges: 4V, 40V, 400V, 600V



            There are plenty of Fluke models that will do 400hz at their limit on current (such as the 321) as well as amprobe, klein etc.

            Fluke specs:

            Range: 0 - 400 A
            Resolution: 0.1 A
            Range: 0 - 40 A (Fluke 322 only)
            Resolution: 0.01 A
            Accuracy: 1.8% ± 5 counts (50 - 60 Hz)
            Accuracy: 3.0% ± 5 counts (60 - 400 Hz)
            AC Response: Averaging

            The Fluke 323 is an ideal clamp multimeter for current measurements up to 400 A in tight cable compartments. Learn more about our troubleshooting tools.


            If you can measure using one of those at 400hz (at less than 5k rpm) then perhaps I'll get one if EBay can turn one up cheap enough...
            Last edited by salty_monk; 10-15-2012, 08:28 PM.
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

            Comment


              #36
              You are correct, I missed it. That would be what you want.

              Comment


                #37
                I have a Fluke 333. It might be good enough for relative measurements.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Fluke says you need the 337 for variable speed drives but it has to be worth a go if you've got one on hand!

                  1980 GS1000G - Sold
                  1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                  1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                  1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                  2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                  1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                  2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

                  www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                  TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Well I installed my used SH775 today and rewired a lot of the charging system and grounds, and it's charging like a dream now! 14.4 volts, no problem! about 13.6 just a little off idle speed. Relief... This unit is so much larger than the unit I pulled off of it, tiny unknown replacement with a 1990 manufacture date. Old unit with old corroded wiring and connectors (non-original) would charge at 12.2 at all rpm's above 2300... charging AWESOME now!
                    '77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
                    '97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
                    '99 Kawasaki KDX220R​ rebuild in progress
                    '79 GS425stock
                    PROJECTS:
                    '77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
                    '77 GS550 740cc major mods
                    '77 GS400 489cc racer build
                    '76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
                    '78 GS1000C/1100

                    Comment


                      #40
                      I stuck one of these on my bike yesterday.. (straight plug in for me).

                      It fits, reads etc exactly the same as the FH010 & the FH009 that I have as far as charging voltage etc.

                      Now to find someone with a clamp meter / scope...!
                      1980 GS1000G - Sold
                      1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                      1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                      1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                      2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                      1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                      2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

                      www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                      TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by old_skool
                        Why would a RR affect engine temps??
                        It doesn't. The engine generates far more heat burning gasoline than the stator does generating electricity. Simple physics.

                        It is a stretch to suggest the stator raises oil temperature above what the engine does no matter what the regulator was doing. Other bikes have a dry stator not bathed in oil that use the same regulator (Honda CM400 ex) and if the stator actually got THAT hot it would burn up in no time.

                        Interestingly enough these Honda bikes don't suffer from stator failures and their SDG regulators never fail no matter how bad the connections get. So another myth is busted that corroded connectors break stator or regulators. Corroded connectors just make it hard to keep the battery up but don't "kill" regulators.

                        Using an overkill regulator isn't going to hurt anything as long as it's wired properly and mounted securely. The costs for the regulator is much higher than the SH-232 or SH-532 and there is the matter of a wiring harness to contend with. But to each his own. I've moved 300+ SDG regulators in the past few years and I think they are working fine these days.
                        1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
                        1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by duaneage View Post
                          It doesn't. The engine generates far more heat burning gasoline than the stator does generating electricity. Simple physics.

                          It is a stretch to suggest the stator raises oil temperature above what the engine does no matter what the regulator was doing. Other bikes have a dry stator not bathed in oil that use the same regulator (Honda CM400 ex) and if the stator actually got THAT hot it would burn up in no time.

                          Interestingly enough these Honda bikes don't suffer from stator failures and their SDG regulators never fail no matter how bad the connections get. So another myth is busted that corroded connectors break stator or regulators. Corroded connectors just make it hard to keep the battery up but don't "kill" regulators.

                          Using an overkill regulator isn't going to hurt anything as long as it's wired properly and mounted securely. The costs for the regulator is much higher than the SH-232 or SH-532 and there is the matter of a wiring harness to contend with. But to each his own. I've moved 300+ SDG regulators in the past few years and I think they are working fine these days.
                          All good points. I think I like the operating principle of this design more than the actual amount of improvement it will offer. For $65 it was a cheap upgrade from stock, which is what I have right now.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by old_skool
                            Thank you, I suspected as much.
                            Duanage is making generalizations and can not accept the truth. On GS1100E's that are hopped up there is a noticeable drop in operating temperature. It has been documented here and independently confirmed.

                            I don't think Duane has an 1100E and is basing his presumptions on what he has observed from his 550. Ignoring oil coolers, any 4 cylinder bike is going to have a similar capacity for dissipating heat. Given the hp diff from a small 4Cy putting out 40-45 hp, v.s. a 1100E putting out 130-140 hp there is a marked difference in oil temperature .

                            Last edited by posplayr; 10-30-2012, 02:12 PM.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              So I noticed that the 4012941 part number on my SH775BA on my regulator now mostly brings up one that IS NOT what we are looking for, but rather a replacement RM Stator brand MOSFET regulator/rectifier for Can-Am's and Yamaha's that is mostly grey/silver in color as opposed to black on the Shindengens. So be careful not to buy this one if looking for a 3 phase series style R/R. Maybe it is just listed as a replacement for the SH775, but I see a ton of ebay listings when searching for the part # on mine for my wife's bike.

                              I did find another source for the SH775, search for SH775AA 278002021 for SkiDoo BRP Spyders, also says in the current ebay listing "2011 Grand Touring 600 ACE. This regulator will fit tons of vehicule in the Bombardier line up like Spyder , Outlander , snowmobile and this will also fit some Honda , Yamaha & Suzuki vehicule"

                              http://www.ebay.com/itm/330812941232
                              '77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
                              '97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
                              '99 Kawasaki KDX220R​ rebuild in progress
                              '79 GS425stock
                              PROJECTS:
                              '77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
                              '77 GS550 740cc major mods
                              '77 GS400 489cc racer build
                              '76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
                              '78 GS1000C/1100

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                                Duanage is making generalizations and can not accept the truth. On GS1100E's that are hopped up there is a noticeable drop in operating temperature. It has been documented here and independently confirmed.
                                Well, I guess I'll join the Doubting Thomas Club. The PM charging systems on these bikes put out at best 400W. This is a third of what my hair dryer puts out, and I can't imagine any circumstance when this would make a difference in the operating temperature of a gasoline-burning 80+ h.p. engine, considering that a single h.p. is defined as 746 watts.

                                If it's 'independently confirmed', I'd like to see the details and the control of variables.
                                and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
                                __________________________________________________ ______________________
                                2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 2004 HondaPotamus sigpic Git'cha O-ring Kits Here!

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X