Need to replace my Rectifier/Regulator

[Steve]

In order to minimize the down time I'm planning on doing the carbs only after all the parts have arrived and when I have two days in a row free.

Just how many cans of dip did you buy?

If you got the usual one can, it will take you far more than two days of down time.

Read the carb rebuild tutorials, especially the one written by Nessism (Ed Ness). Follow the instructions TO THE LETTER. Note that the instructions on the can of 'dip' were written way back, when the stuff worked a bit better. The instructions say to soak the parts for "15 to 30 minutes". However, depending on how long the bike has not been running (a couple of years is typical), we find that 15 to 30 HOURS is what it takes to do the job.

Yep, that means that if you remove your carbs today (Wednesday), you will swap carbs in the dip on Thursday, Friday, Saturday, then take the last one out on Sunday. If you get them assembled Sunday afternoon, you might get a ride in on Sunday evening, but be sure to sync the carbs, too.

.

[JTGS850GL]

I appreciate your concern, but now worries. The bike is actually running right now and has been for at least a couple of years. I have a slight vagueness when cruising along at 45-50 mph, and is a bit lean but the carbs are not that gross. The cleaning is simply part of the normal process of getting a good baseline and time to replace all internal O-rings. I'm expecting the problem to be more of a vacuum leak issue then simply gross dirty carbs.

Carb rebuilding is not something I'm new to, so I am aware of the issues. I have a sonic cleaner large enough to hold two gallons of cleaning fluid (2 gallons is what I've purchased) and is used in conjunction with the solvent solution so that expedites the cleaning process. I have a MOTION PRO carb sync tool so that will cover me on syncing up the carbs as well.

[JTGS850GL]

Ok, the FH020AA r/r is installed and was a perfect fit in the OEM location under the battery and the PO already had longer allen head screws installed. I didn't need to modify the bolt holes either since the bolt hole spacing was perfect. Used the OEM waterproof connectors that came with the r/r. I crimped and soldered the wires to connectors. Used 14 gauge wires on the stator and 12 gauge wires on the ground and +12V. Connected the ground directly to the battery and ran the +12 to the solid red wire used by OEM. Bypassed the loop wire going to the headlight. The three wires from the stator were wired directly to the regulator connector. Started her up and read a steady 14.3V at the battery terminals regardless of load. One item down!!!