Points ignition....help pretty please.

[Dave Bandero]

I finally removed the points cover off my GS750e, this is what I found.

I can understand what the components are, I have looked at most tutorials and I have read most of the fantastic articles on this site but I am still not understanding how I can test the points ignition unit on a bike that won't start 99/100 attempts. I need a dummies guide to using a multimeter on this unit. What settings on the meter, where to use the sensors, what do I need to see as a result etc etc, I am using a Draper DMM1A, I need to get this done before North East UK winter sets in so I would be eternally grateful for some help.

Work I have attempted so far, I have removed all screws and reground their slots, they were totally molested, and refitted them. I have slightly sanded down the points and gapped them to 14thousands (I think). I can see a slight spark from the right sided points. Still no fire up.

Many thanks for reading this.

[tom203]

Wow, those screws have been abused- I'd spring for sone new ones. Anyways, have you seen this explanation for points; your meter can substitute for test light (on voltage scale)

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A18

I'm not familiar with points/condensers on suzukis, but over the years I've stumbled across lots of crappy aftermarket ones- maybe yours aren't any good; someone will know better than me

[earlfor]

I wrote this in 2004 for the old tech section. Maybe this will help. Heres a copy.

Here's the proceedure for timing the 750. The points are located under
the round cover on the right end of the crankcase/crankshaft.

The round 6" plate that both sets of points are mounted on (breaker
plate) is held in place by three screws located at 12, 4 and 8 oclock.
Loosen the 3 screws on the breaker plate. Note that the screw at 12
oclock is in a slot. Rotate the breaker plate until the 12 oclock screw
is centered in the slot. Tighten the three screws.

We will replace the left side set of points first (located at 9 oclock
position) These are the points for cylinders 1 and 4.

Take a 19 mm wrench and rotate crankshaft until points are at widest
gap. Unscrew hold down screw on pointset and remove points. Note the
white wire that goes to the pointset and the placement of the insulator.
The insulator must be correct or the points will be grounded out and
will not work. Put the new points onto the breaker plate, set the gap to
14 thousandths, and lightly tighten the hold down screw. Install white wire.
Rotate crankshaft once again with 19mm wrench until points are at widest
gap. Check that widest gap remains at 14 thousandths. Adjust and
retighten holddown screw if needed.

Rotate crankshaft until rightside points are at widest gap (for
cylinders 2 and 3) Remove old points and install new points and set gap
at 14 thousandths. Note insulators on black wire installation. Rotate
crankshaft with 19 mm wrench again stopping at widest gap. Recheck gap
as you did with the left pointset. Adjust and retighten hold down screw
on points if needed.

THE ABOVE COVERS SETTING THE POINTS GAPS




Next is the timing:

Timing for cylinders 1 and 4 (the left set of points)....................
With 19 mm wrench, rotate crankshaft while looking through the timing
window and align the mark that looks like F1| with the timing mark on
the engine case.
(the line following F1 is the mark (|)

note: some bikes will have a stationary timing mark on the engine case
and some will have a mark on a stationary timing plate that can be seen
through the timing window)

Connect a continuity lights wire lead/clip to the white wire clip on the
left pointset. Clamp continuity light probe tip to ground on the bike or
battery negative terminal.

Turn ignition switch to on (do not attempt to start bike, just switch
ignition to on)

The continuity light should be on.

Loosen the three screws on the breaker plate located at 12, 4 and 8
oclock. Rotate breaker plate until continuity light just flickers out.
Retighten the 12, 4, and 8 oclock screws on the breaker plate.

Unclip continuity lead from left pointset.



For the Right pointset
Rotate crankshaft with wrench until you see the timing mark F2| become
aligned with the stationary timing mark on the engine case.
Connect continuity light lead to black wire on right pointset.
The ignition should be switched on and the continuity light should be on.

The right pointset is mounted to a breaker half plate.
You will see that you can loosen the mounting screws on this breaker
half plate and this will allow you to move the right pointset. This will
adjust the timing without changing the points gap. When you rotated the
complete breaker plate for the left pointset to get the continuity light
to flicker out, thats what you did. You adjusted the timing on cylinders
1 and 4 without changing the gap on their pointset.
Unfortunately, the whole breaker plate being rotated moves BOTH sets of
points, so that is why you must set the left side first and that is why
the right side is mounted on its own independent half breaker plate.
SOoooooo.... Smile Loosen the breaker half plate on the right side and
rotate as needed to cause the continuity light to just flicker out.
Tighten the half plate back down when satisfied with the adjustment. Smile

Remove continuity light and HOPEFULLY, start bike..

Earl

[Dave Bandero]

thanks

Cheers Earlfor, I had previously read your excellent article, on further inspection today, I found the white wire was cracked and showing bare wire. Can I cut this back to good wiring by removing the ignition unit and feeding more wire through? Grinding the screw heads with a dremel (found on the carbs tutorial) worked quite well. Cheers Tom203

[earlfor]

Cheers Earlfor, I had previously read your excellent article, on further inspection today, I found the white wire was cracked and showing bare wire. Can I cut this back to good wiring by removing the ignition unit and feeding more wire through? Grinding the screw heads with a dremel (found on the carbs tutorial) worked quite well. Cheers Tom203

There is no problem with trimming the wire back to where there is good insulation, or it's a simple thing to replace the wires with new ones. Also, normally the white wire comes from the left point set and connects to the 1,4 (left) coil. Previous owners have been known to get the color code wrong, you might want to be certain that whatever color is connected to the left point set is connected to the 1,4 (left) coil.

[Dave Bandero]

Good stuff, many thanks Earlfor.

[rustybronco]

One small note. You should never 'sand' point contact's, you only file them. Sand could still remain on the surface preventing them from making a good contact.

http://www.toolschest.com/isn1594.html

[lemonshindig]

One small note. You should never 'sand' point contact's, you only file them. Sand could still remain on the surface preventing them from making a good contact.

http://www.toolschest.com/isn1594.html

Splitting hairs, man.

[Dj66]

Points

Filing is of course better, but sand paper (or the strike surface from a book of matches) works if you clean them with some paper afterwards.

[uk gs nut]

Dave where are you in ne uk ?. Maybe i could help if not to far away.
Dennis.

[tkent02]

I went in to a parts place to find a points file, no comprende. Ignition points? Huh?
You know for contact points in an old ignition system???? Dull stare... What kind of car is it for? Eightywhat? Nevermind. Even the manager never heard of it.

HF sells about a ten pack of little files, a few of them are flat and will work.

[rustybronco]

Splitting hairs, man.

Show me where a manufacturer recommends you sand them.

[lemonshindig]

Show me where a manufacturer recommends you sand them.

Show me where a manufacturer recommends using zip ties to change valve shims.

[rustybronco]

Personally I don't use that method. I use the proper tool for the job.

Sandpaper won't get the point surfaces flat as is required either. Although an emery file 'could' work in a pinch...

[earlfor]

I went in to a parts place to find a points file, no comprende. Ignition points? Huh?
You know for contact points in an old ignition system???? Dull stare... What kind of car is it for? Eightywhat? Nevermind. Even the manager never heard of it.

HF sells about a ten pack of little files, a few of them are flat and will work.

A emory board fingernail file works and a can of electrical spray contact cleaner to clean them off works.