Static Timing Dyna-S

[Kyler]

This is the first time I've installed a Dyna ignition system--in this case a Dyna-S. This is my GS1100 motor. I followed the directions (I hope), made a 12v light and clipped it to the coil as directed. I twisted the black doohickey (see picture) and then rotated the crank until the light came on. I aligned the right most mark (so sayeth the directions) with the TDC mark.

Well, I would be certain if the instructions had pictures! Did I do it right? When the coil for #1 & 4 cylinders lights up (with the advancer rotated) this is how the marks are aligned.

Comments?

[Carter Turk]

It seems out of the box, it would be more in the middle of the slots. Maybe rotate the plate, more in the middle and see where the light goes out, and back it up to where it lights up again. This while twisting the advancer. The crank doesn't need to be rotated where you have timing mark lined up for 1-4. There is no advance mark on the 2-3 side, so might want to measure the distance of the advance mark on 1-4 and scribe a line on 2-3. You do have to rotate the crank to check 2-3 to it's advance mark.

[blowerbike]

this is best done with a degree wheel as the modules are seldom in time with each other.
center of the slot doesn't mean anything really....it's just guessing.

[rapidray]

Try turning the advancer against the springs & see where the marks line up. :0!!
Ray.

[Carter Turk]

It doesn't seem like they'd put such large slots, to have it all the way over on one side, with no room to advance or retard.
You're the man though, I'm just trial and error guy. It sounded like he was turning the crank while twisting the advance rotor.

[Kyler]

Try turning the advancer against the springs & see where the marks line up. :0!!
Ray.

I was Ray! I guess I'll pull the motor and get a timing wheel. Better to be safe than sorry.

for those asking why I need to pull the motor, the sidecar frame is so close I can't get the left cover off with the motor in the frame. See pic below.

[blowerbike]

you can not get the stator cover off?
any way to notch the plating around it?
i see room for maybe an 8" degree wheel if the cover was removed.
once a person checks the dynaS with a wheel...you'll see what i mean about how out of sync the modules are and how off center the slot can be.
if your running gas and no power adders you might set total advance between 34-36 degree's.

[Kyler]

you can not get the stator cover off?
any way to notch the plating around it?
i see room for maybe an 8" degree wheel if the cover was removed.
once a person checks the dynaS with a wheel...you'll see what i mean about how out of sync the modules are and how off center the slot can be.
if your running gas and no power adders you might set total advance between 34-36 degree's.

nope - that bar is only a few inches away from the case.

I ordered a Moroso 18" wheel (thanks for the suggestion Ray!). I'm sure my old, trifocal bedecked eyes will appreciate it.

My part-time passenger is coming over Sunday and we'll pull the motor. F8ck ... that boy eats a lot of pizza too.

[bwringer]

Perhaps I'm dense...

Why not just fire it up and use a timing light to put the timing right where you want it?

It'll start and run just fine the way it is.

IIRC, the advancer will start to operate around 2,000 - 2,500 rpm and will be fully advanced by around 3,500 to 4,000.

In other words, who the heck cares about static timing? Just slap it in and it'll run well enough to adjust from there.

[GregT]

Bwringer is right of course - but for a race motor it's always best to actually know the ignition timing at full advance in measured degrees. At least for a start anyway as experience and/or dyno time may dictate changes. By all means use the std marks for a road motor.
And yes, the modules are not often at exactly 180 degrees.....

[Kyler]

Why not just fire it up and use a timing light to put the timing right where you want it?

It'll start and run just fine the way it is.

IIRC, the advancer will start to operate around 2,000 - 2,500 rpm and will be fully advanced by around 3,500 to 4,000.

In other words, who the heck cares about static timing? Just slap it in and it'll run well enough to adjust from there.

If it had been closer to the center of the slots I probably would do as you suggest but I have great respect for Murphy's Law with plenty of personal experience supporting it.

I have the time to pull the motor (first practice session isn't until May) and with a quick change backbone it isn't too bad to get out.

[Kyler]

I took Ray's advice and bought a 18" degree wheel. My old eyes do appreciate it too!



as I said above, there is no room to put the wheel on the left side of the motor without pulling the motor. Being a lazy guy, I decided to try something else



So I grabbed some scrap aluminum, bought a piece of M8x1.25 all-thread, made a standoff and turned new mounting spacers for the degree wheel



now there is plenty of space to rotate the motor and I can easily remove the degree wheel once TDC is established without risking rotating the crank when I remove the wheel.