Maybe they changed the location of the ground wire on your bike. Mine is bolted to the transmission case near where the motor is bolted to the frame. I don't have a spare 550 around to check but that doesn't make a whole lot of sense to bury it where it can't easily be serviced or changed. At any rate any bolt like that should be sprayed with a good penetrating oil before attempting to remove it. If what I suspect is wrong you might have to replace the main ground wire anyway.
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Last edited by Guest; 09-02-2019, 03:30 PM. -
The 650 has it on top of transmission....easy to get to, no need to fiddle with airbox. I imagine the 1980 gs550 would be similar unless someone got creative.1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben FranklinComment
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I was confusing what bike you had. The 550 is a baby 1000 motor so it will be on top of the transmission just like mine forward of the frame mounting bolt. You have the wrong wire.Last edited by Guest; 09-02-2019, 03:26 PM.Comment
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I'm following the black battery wire directly from the battery box. It's a couple feet long, one end goes to the battery, the other goes to a screw into the engine casing under the plastic airbox that connects to the carburetor.20190902_154231.jpgLast edited by Guest; 09-02-2019, 03:43 PM.Comment
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You can see the picture of the main earth (ground) in the third pic of this old post, at the rear of the transmission case, toward the left hand side.
Things have moved very slowly over the winter, but I've managed to get a few bits done - brake calipers, air filter box, engine mounts etc.
Now to deal with this.......
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Looks great! That front fender is looking especially shiny.
The black wire hanging off, towards the shelf? That's the one I'm having problems with.
So how would I test flow to that ground?Comment
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Ok, I checked all 3 wires coming around the battery box, and connected them. Now when I push the starter button, it won't even turn. The lights still come on, though.
EDIT: Also, my multimeter was going bad. I had to get a new one.
EDIT 2: I see why that is. The Ignition fuse fell out. Gotta find it.Last edited by Guest; 09-02-2019, 06:32 PM.Comment
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Ok, I get a reading of 12.55 between the battery electrodes. While ignition is On, I get 11.78 between the orange/white and white wires that go to Coil 1. Much better. What do I check next?Comment
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You still haven't downloaded a service manual?1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SESComment
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I have. But it doesn't tell me things such as what the fuses should read as, and some things such as a no-load test require the engine to be running, which mine isn't.Comment
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I still don't know what it could be. Both coils are connected to the same wires. What affects one should affect the other, right?Comment
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Not exactly, 1-4 is connected to Orange/White and White and 2-3 is connected to Orange/White and Blue/Yellow. Have you switched your coils so you can see if the problem follows or if it remains the same. If it follows it is the coil If it stays the same it is the trigger from the ignighter. Also unless someone changed things the wire bolted to the transmission housing should be traced directly back to the battery negative. I don't know if I can follow you, apparently somewhere along the line the ignition fuse fell out and I'm getting confused as to what you are doing.Comment
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Alright. I'm thinking it may be the battery ground wire, the runs from the battery negative post.
I had it in one position earlier and got coil 1 to spark, at least for a short time. After 10 or so flashes from the spark plug tester, it stops.
However, the ground wire screw into the engine casing is in a tight spot.Comment
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