Weak spark

[OldVet66]

Those are heavy wires that can hide a lot of corrosion and broken strands in the ring terminals. I was concerned with your voltage drop when you were cranking the motor. Replacing that cable may solve a lot of your problems. I replaced mine when I first got my bike because it was in such bad shape. The starter motor gets it's ground from the motor case it is bolted to and can pull insane current if that cable is bad. If you can eventually get that screw loose, replace it with one that has a bolt or Allan head. I like to use stainless steel star washers on my grounds so they dig in for a good ground contact.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

Sometimes the motor won't start unless I tap the wire and move it slightly, then a connection happens.

[OldVet66]

Time to replace the wire before you ruin the starter.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

The only issue is that screw. It's wedged pretty tight.

[OldVet66]

It has to come out. Keep spraying it with a penetrating oil until it breaks loose. Seafoam Deep Creep is the best one I have found in a while. You might be surprised how easily it comes out if you give it time to penetrate the threads. Some things take time. You may have to remove things so you can get good access to it.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

If I could remove the plastic air box, that would be better. I may just cut the screws. They're rusted out anyway, using a screwdriver just rips up the heads. I have an impact driver, I just don't have room to use it.

[Rob S.]

If I could remove the plastic air box, that would be better. I may just cut the screws. They're rusted out anyway, using a screwdriver just rips up the heads. I have an impact driver, I just don't have room to use it.

It took a dremel to remove my air box. I wanted pods (and a dremel) anyway.

[OldVet66]

If I could remove the plastic air box, that would be better. I may just cut the screws. They're rusted out anyway, using a screwdriver just rips up the heads. I have an impact driver, I just don't have room to use it.

There is another possible way. Since you have proven the cable is bad you could always cut the cable away . That screw sitting up on top of the ring terminal should be pretty easy to clamp a proper sized vise grip on the sides of the screw to work it loose. I have a small one that is shaped kind of like a needle nose but with much thicker jaws and teeth that would probably make it easy work. You would still need penetrating oil and work it loose slowly. If that doesn't work you can always move the air box but you are going to have to do that eventually to rebuild the carburetors.

[Grimly]

The only issue is that screw. It's wedged pretty tight.

It doesn't have to use that particular screw. Just cut the wire off and make a new lead, terminated to a different case screw that's within easy reach.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

What other case screw could I use?

[Grimly]

If you can't reach one that goes into the top of the crankcase, use one that fastens a side cover on as a temporary measure. If you're planning on removing the carbs anyway, you'll be able to get at the original one and be able to re-use that later. Any bolt going into the crankcase will do the job as an electrical ground return.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

I can't get at the original one because the airbox won't come off.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

Ok, I put a brand new wire leading up another screw on the casing. Still no spark.

There was a time I disconnected and reconnected the connectors for Coil 1, and it sparked. I think the problem is right here: 15678146453001857095962092747742.jpg

[OldVet66]

Is this the way you have it wired up, it's hard to tell? I do not see a white wire in that foreword bundle of wires. The back set looks correct. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...VBaDVLelNETE5B

[OldVet66]

Ok, I put a brand new wire leading up another screw on the casing. Still no spark.

Some progress at least you don't have to wiggle the wire to get the starter motor to turn over. What is your voltage at the coils when you crank it?