no power and no lights = dead ignition switch?

[sacruickshank]

Recently acquired '80 GS550T. It was non-runner at time of purchase and I didn't do an electrical test. ~Dirt cheap so I wasn't overly concerned.

With a new and fully charged battery I'm getting no juice. No lights, signals, start button does nothing, etc. I can run an insulated screwdriver across the starter solenoid to trigger the starter motor, so that portion of the circuitry is alive. When doing so, I'm not getting any spark using the hold the plug against the engine test.

The wire harness is original, all connectors seem intact, I have two grounds going to the frame just in front of the airbox, and I don't see any bare or frayed wires.

Could a dead ignition switch cause this behavior? Is there a way to test the switch or should I just buy a replacement?
Is there another frame or engine ground I should check?

Pic showing wiring in headlight bucket as evidence of ~unmolested wiring.
PXL_20201201_174704631.jpg

[Guest]

Check the fuse box first, and trace from there up to the ignition switch. They tend to corrode around the back - might as well remove it and clean it thoroughly, even if it isn't your problem. The multi-pin connector under the tank also gets dirty.

[sacruickshank]

Check the fuse box first, and trace from there up to the ignition switch. They tend to corrode around the back - might as well remove it and clean it thoroughly, even if it isn't your problem. The multi-pin connector under the tank also gets dirty.

I should have mentioned that I already tried a new main fuse, but not the other ones yet.

I haven't yet cleaned the connectors under the tank., but they don't look horrible.

[Big T]

What does your VOM tell you?
Where do you have 12V?
Start at the main fuse

[sacruickshank]

Re: checking voltages/continuity, should I have the ignition switch set to ON, OFF, or it doesn't matter? I'm OK mechanically, but not so good with electricals.

[sacruickshank]

Check the fuse box first, and trace from there up to the ignition switch. They tend to corrode around the back - might as well remove it and clean it thoroughly, even if it isn't your problem. The multi-pin connector under the tank also gets dirty.

yup, it's the fuse box. I haven't pulled it off yet, but after several probes with the tester suddenly the lights came on and the starter worked. Psyched!

It's still fragile, the lights will go off if you look at it wrong, but i'll take the fuse box off tomorrow and give the contact surfaces a good scrubbing.

Thanks for the help. probably won't be the last question i ask.

[Big T]

You need to pull the fuse box off and check the back
The solder on the connections might be melted away

[Steve]

What does your VOM tell you?
Where do you have 12V?
Start at the main fuse

Yes, a VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) should be in your tool box, but so should a test light. Available everywhere from Wal-Mart to Auto Zone, to Harbor Freight, to Home Depot.

There are times like you are experiencing now, where you don't need to know whether you have 13.2 volts or 11.8 volts, you only need to know that that you have power. An LED light will be rather rugged, but a standard incandescent light will give you a rough gauge of voltage, based on how bright it is.

.

[sacruickshank]

You need to pull the fuse box off and check the back
The solder on the connections might be melted away

All the connections looked decent. I blew away any dust with compressed air and re-assembled. So far, so good. It's still a long way from test runs and the maiden voyage.

[Redman]

. . . . . . . . .. So far, so good. . . . . . . . .

Try wiggling and pulling on each wire at the fuse block.
Try wiggling and thumping on the fuse block and each fuse.