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    Cheapo fork oil, pros if any?

    Save money? What weight for my 700 anyways, I'm ~160 lbs then have about ~7 lbs of tools and ride with a backpack that weighs ~15 lbs.

    Also anyone have 2 fork seals for sale so I don't have to spend $10 just to ship them from 15 miles away at bike bandit?

    Just trying to get everything together so when I get the engine in I can swap out my 2 leaking fork seals and be on the road.

    #2
    sorry,, but i,ve learnt the hard way... CHEAP NO NAME BRAND OIL = ****.... you have delray in the usa .. its great and you can get 10/20 weight fork oil ... regards david

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      #3
      Naw, I'd run the cheapest fork oil I could find. I'd even run motor oil without hesitation if the proper weight could be found. Suzuki even lists motor oil as applicable in some of the service manuals. The only issue is finding a weight you want. Motor oil is hard to find in all the specific weights that fork oil is sold in so that could be a draw back if you are picky. Personally, if in a pinch I'd run some 5W-20 oil and you should be fine. If that's too soft, mix in some 10W-30 and cut it 50-50. More work that way but once you find a formula that works for you, you can call it done.
      Last edited by Nessism; 02-20-2011, 09:38 PM.
      Ed

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        #4
        I'll try a mixture, I'm sure Ray will be helping me (hopefully). I usually run cheap maxima in my mountain bikes with a 5w but thats a different style of riding and weight all together.

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          #5
          My factory manual for myn 750s says to make a 50/50 mix of 30 weight motor oil and automatic tranny fluid..probably 2 things you already got on a shelf in the garage.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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            #6
            Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
            My factory manual for myn 750s says to make a 50/50 mix of 30 weight motor oil and automatic tranny fluid..probably 2 things you already got on a shelf in the garage.

            Nah, its on the floor coloring the concrete.

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              #7
              On my last one, I tried 10W-30 synthetic motor oil just to see if it would work.
              The cheapo MauMart brand.
              It works fine.

              Daniel

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                #8
                +1 for Belray, I stopped playing chemistry. One less thing to question when trouble shooting..

                ME "Maybe I'll try a different ratio"
                Motorcycle mechanic friend "Why don't you just skip the next pitcher, and buy some real fork oil"

                Comment


                  #9
                  Anything works fine if you want to change it often enough. Auto motor oil doesn't have the shear stability to keep its viscosity for very long. Motorcycle motor oil would last longer but will still thin out and break down alot sooner than a good synthetic fork oil. It also doesn't have as good of temperature stability either. It will thicken up more easily in cold weather. Cheap tranny fluid would be a better choice as it is made to be shear stable and will help make the seals last better than motor oil. But in the long run your not saving money as you can run the sythetic fork oil 4 times longer before it needs changing, and is the best for keeping your seals and bushings from wearing.

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                    #10
                    7981 GS..I had some leaky fork seals and no money for new ones..so i put stright 50 wt in and that slowed the leak down almost to nothing till i could get seals..didnt seem to hamper the steering or braking either. I dnt recommend it for long term use but hey sometimes you gotta do a stop gap meausre to get yourself by.
                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I'm using Hydraulic Pump Oil (not jack oil). About $4-$6/qt at my local Auto Value store. It works fine, no problems with it even when I had the bike overloaded for my CA trip.

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                        #12
                        I always use actual real live fork oil, but I certainly wouldn't let a lack of fork oil keep me from riding.

                        Also, I've used Motor Honey many times to fine-tune the viscosity of fork oil. If I can't find 20W, I'll use 15W with about 10% Motor Honey.
                        1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                        2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                        2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
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                          #13
                          Originally posted by bwringer View Post
                          I always use actual real live fork oil, but I certainly wouldn't let a lack of fork oil keep me from riding.

                          Also, I've used Motor Honey many times to fine-tune the viscosity of fork oil. If I can't find 20W, I'll use 15W with about 10% Motor Honey.
                          I never thought it was that big of a deal until I let up pressure on my bars and my steering got extremely violent on me. I was only going about 25 but had that of happend at 70 I would have not been to happy so til then its gonna sit since one side is off balance, even with a new engine.

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                            #14
                            I use 15-40 rotella- works fine, better than thin stuff that was in there. Take care to get equal amounts in each fork or weird stuff might happen.
                            1981 gs650L

                            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                              #15
                              There is so much more to fork oil than viscosity.

                              You are forgetting about anti foam, and anti corosion protection that must be higher than that of motor oil and compressor oils. It may work at first and for a while, but you're risking long term damage to the inner workings and possible catostrofic failure of damping in the case of a foamup. If it foams and air gets permiated through the oil, dampening can disapear all together. Something you won't find out until it's too late. High speeds on choppy pavement will find you riding a pogo stick for a front suspension.

                              Really, is that risk worth saving a few bucks for?

                              The best tires in the world won't help you turn, accelerate, or stop, if you can't keep the tires in good contact with the pavement. That's the job of the suspesion and ultimately the fork/shock oil. It's not just how it feels on a Sunday ride or bouncing it in the garage.

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