Any tricks to getting the shims out without the special compressor tool? I was hoping I could use the tool I have for old diesel Volkswagen rabbit motors, but it is just a bit too wide. Also I believe the diesel shims are too large by .5mm. Oh well.
On the diesel motors, I didn't really like using the valve compressor (still fiddly to get the thing out) so I would measure the current clearances, then just pull the cam off and pop them all out, do my calculations and in stall the correct new shims.
Any reason I couldn't loosen the cams? With the chain in the middle it wouldn't be quite as simple as the diesel, but I figure if I mark the chain relative to the cam sprocket and then loosen the caps it would be OK. At least give me a bit more room.
As far as replacing the shims goes:
Since I cannot get the smallest feeler gauge in there, but there seems to be enough of a gap that it can still spin, should I just order the next size or two smaller from whatever happens to be in there? I'm hoping I can move some around, and/or the parts bike will yield some to reduce the amount needed.
Thanks!




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