Side cover post replacement - whats the latest?

[Andrew Vanis]

In your case, you may have to remove the old glue/filler you have in there first with a Dremel or something so the abs glue bonds well.

that cracking on the outside makes em wonder if the pain is peeling. In any case, remove all the loose stuff because anything glued to that will be weak.

Depending how that crack is you may consider gluing a ABS flat plastic backing plate to reinforce it from the inside (see my pics above) and then gluing the post to that. That will also give you something to fill to from the front side. I like how ABS glue dries up as a filler.

For the existing one you have, when you glue it do a few glue layers. One to attach and then subsequent ones as a gusset.

The following is how I addresses mine.

I had a hole in my side cover where the broken post was because a bolt was used to keep the cover on. When I glued on the post, I put a piece of tape on the outside if the cover, the hole got filled with abs cement as a part of the post for on process. Next day I pulled the tape off and the hole was filled..... And since I had a black cover it looked fairly good.

[salty_monk]

I think you can dissolve some ABS & use it as a filler.. You need it to be ABS so that the glue you're using works on the post. This is one reason I am a fan of having a perforated base plate on the new post. Makes for a stronger fix.

[Andrew Vanis]

I think you can dissolve some ABS & use it as a filler.......perforated base plate on the new post. fix.

The ABS glue dried seems to make a really good filler. I wonder if the glue is just acetone with dissolved ABS already.

A bse plate is challenging on a retro fix like this. it would have to be engineered to ever bike and, likely, to every situation - just look at the two covers sampled right here. The Blue one need something (almost) flat and my 750 goes up at 45deg on one side.

The ABS glue seems to make a good glue and filler so that each post can be modified as your situation requires and if you don;t get it 'just' perfect, the filler quality of the glue makes up for any imperfections.

Mine is still holding up well.

[salty_monk]

I think the plate would flex to cover all these eventualities if you didn't make it too thick and chamfered it into the post for strength. You can see they tried to address these breakages with webs on the later side covers.
I'm an industrial designer by trade, I tend to err on the side of caution.

The existing stub can be ground flat easily with a dremel if it sticks out where it broke...
I would think it easier to adapt the cover to match than the new post if that makes sense.

It's great that someone is thinking about these things. These have always been a problem

[Grimly]

The ABS glue dried seems to make a really good filler. I wonder if the glue is just acetone with dissolved ABS already.

ABS porridged into MBK solvent, as far as I know.
Just going by the ABS / PVC pipe jointing glue that's available here - that's what it is.

[Andrew Vanis]

I think the plate would flex to cover all these eventualities if you didn't make it too thick and chamfered it into the post for strength.....
I'm an industrial designer by trade, I tend to err on the side of caution.....It's great that someone is thinking about these things. These have always been a problem

Bigger could be better in this situation though not feasible considering the design differences in applications. Just look at my 750 side cover that needs a post about 1" long and the 550 cover that seems to take a 1/4" post. and then there is that my 750 cover is half on the flt and half on the angled side and the 550 is flat.

Such a solution would take a dedicated design for each model which would take tons of inventory and even more so, a lot of design time with access to every side cover to match.

having the user shape them to their application is the way to go.

And the thing to keep in mind is that the replacement post as provided is holding up really well and is already stronger than OEM with its circular base vs. the minimal OEM X base.

Thanks, I hope these replacement posts provide some headache relief for our users.

[2BRacing]

….. I hope these replacement posts provide some headache relief for our users.

Well done, great to see modern 3D printing technology being applied to solve "old school" issues!

[bonanzadave]

I used some plastic automotive body molding push pins glued on with JBW plastic. Works great !!

https://www.amazon.com/Dophee-Fastener-Retainers-Insulation-Plastic/dp/B01DETDKLO/ref=asc_df_B01DETDKLO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=191929022594&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13111098433289771268&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019573&hvtargid=pla-309781252223&psc=1

[wymple]

I used some plastic automotive body molding push pins glued on with JBW plastic. Works great !!

https://www.amazon.com/Dophee-Fasten...81252223&psc=1

And on the help racks at any auto parts store. They are very useful. I often use them to keep older or broken door panels in place.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

So, I finally got to working on the round pegs on my side panels. One new ABS peg bought from Andrew Vanis (thank you) and one original that had just broken off. This Black ABS cement is some pretty great stuff. Looks like it should do the trick.

Because the left panel peg had completely broken out, I used the right panel as a guide to mark the left, covered the gaping hole with tape and marked the center.


Drilled a clean hole just slightly larger than the new peg. And cut the new peg to length plus the thickness of the panel by chucking it in the drill press and using a hacksaw blade.


I covered the front of the hole with wax paper and taped on a flat stick to hold a puddle of cement in the hole.


When it was dry (waited a day), removed the stick and wax paper. looked pretty good. Pooled more cement on it (waited another day), then sanded it wet, a few different grits.


Except for this panel, my paint is in pretty good shape, so painting isn't in my immediate future, and I had this sticker that I got from another member (thank you D Roberts). I've refrained from any decals on the bike up to this point, but with all the help and advice I've gotten from the members here, I don't mind advertising.


(not shown: I've also pooled up more cement around the base of the peg on the inside. And I've used the same cement to re-glue the original peg in the right panel.)

Should be good for another 38 years. COME ON SPRING!!!

[Andrew Vanis]

So, I finally got to working on the round pegs on my side panels. One new ABS peg bought from Andrew Vanis (thank you) and one original that had just broken off. This Black ABS cement is some pretty great stuff. Looks like it should do the trick.






(not shown: I've also pooled up more cement around the base of the peg on the inside. And I've used the same cement to re-glue the original peg in the right panel.)

Should be good for another 38 years. COME ON SPRING!!!

Rich, that looks great! The sticker is a nice touch Like It! Andy

[Andrew Vanis]

Hey guys,

Want to let you know if you placed orders on Ebay they will ship shortly. With this corona thing I was stuck on a sailboat w/o a country that would accept us and after sailing for a few extra hundreds of miles (which took a while at 3-4 knots) to a US territory that would I just got back to the sates last night.

Andy

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Wow Andy. Glad you made it home safely.

[Guest]

gave it a go in its simplest form and works well...and if it breaks, I'll glue another.

made them avail on flea bay at $5 https://www.ebay.com/itm/suzuki-gs-s...s/184003641565

if a GSR person wants some they are direct sale discount at $4 (add'l discount for quantity) for and flat $4 shipping to the USA (by the time one gets an envelope and pays postage it adds up to more than the item....I wonder how the Chinese sellers sell the small stuff for a few bucks including shipping)

The Chinese gov subsides postage for export sales. From point to point in China isn't cheap. That is a great idea, I am working on printing a custom 1/4 fairing for an 82 1100E

[Guest]

I have an '83 GS1100e and I struggled with broken tabs for quite awhile. I tried multiple ways to create tabs and they all failed. I think I found a way to make tabs that are sufficiently strong to withstand the rigors of the side covers being removed and replaced multiple times. A good hobby shop will carry a wide selection of plastic stock. I beams, channels, square and rectangular shaped long pieces. I think you can find a piece whose width and thickness is close to the width and thickness of the tabs on the bike. You can cut an arrow shape at the end and then make the length along as the tab on the bike. The hardest part is getting the new piece to line up with the hole on the frame. If it's off just a little you will not be able to get the side cover to fit flush with the tank. If you need to modify the shape it can be done with a modelers hacksaw and a file but a dremel rotary tool is the easiest. To attach the new tab to the side cover use JB weld. Nothing else I tried was strong enough. If you want to get creative you can add some reinforcement pieces. This has worked for me but It's wise to be gentle especially when taking the side cover off. I hope this tjp can help you keep those side covers secure. I don't know if this method has already been suggested, but I thought it might be helpful.