Please help....

[riskadh]

I have been all over this site and have found some very useful info. I just got an 82 GS1100GK that runs fine when it starts, but just drains the battery while running. The battery is new and I replaced the r/r with one from a junk yard that I believe is good. Still the bike will not charge. I want to test the wires from the stator, but I am not very auto-saavy. How do you test these wires for continuity, or at least, I just need to know what it means to "connect test leads" from the stator papers:
"Detach the three wires coming from the stator (in my case these are white/blue, white/green and yellow). Have the engine running at 5000 rpm and measure the potential difference between all possible pairs (white/blue against white/green, white/blue against yellow, white/green against yellow). In all cases the potential difference should be more than 75 V during a short test."
If it was mechanical, no problem, but electrical is something else. If the wires are detached, do i compare the wires that come from the stator, or one from the stator that goes to r/r? Also, according to my manual, shows a wire going from r/r to the battery, but I don't see that. Do I need to run one from the red wire on the r/r to the + on the battery? Any and all help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks

[GS550joe]

wiring..

think of the red and black as power wires from the r/r to the battery... the others are the ones you want to test to see what the voltage is from the stator.. at the connectors where the r/r connects those three... the other ends are connected to the stator.. check these for voltage differences... where the blue/white connects put a lead then insert the other lead into one of the remaining wires.. check and write the voltage down... then move the second lead to the last wire and check this voltage.. write it down... then move the first lead to the second wire you just disconnected from and write down that voltage.. three checks and three moves.. then follow the remainder of the tips in the same manner when reading btween three wires test two move one lead .. test next.. move the first lead into the second wire.. hopes this helps..

Joe

[riskadh]

OK, tried that with very little, barely around 5v, or no reading at all. Even started the bike and disconnected the positive cable on the battery (which I was told to try by previous owner) and the bike died. Ran a wire directly from the red wire on the r/r to the + post on battery with an inline 15A fuse, still dies. So now I am left with the thought it is the stator. Any other suggestions or options I can try before I spend the money on a new stator? Thanks again

[Rocky]

In my experience with electrical testing, the ground wire is the culprit when you don't get the voltage readings you want. Just make sure the ground is tight and grounded to an unpainted piece of metal. Sometimes the answer is a simple one. Hope it is not your stator. That can be an expensive project.

[8trackmind]

In my experience with electrical testing, the ground wire is the culprit when you don't get the voltage readings you want. Just make sure the ground is tight and grounded to an unpainted piece of metal. Sometimes the answer is a simple one. Hope it is not your stator. That can be an expensive project.

Way to go, Rocky! Dishin' out the tech! :-D Gotta have ground.

[bwringer]

Make sure you're measuring alternating current (AC) when you're testing the stator. At 5,000 RPM with the stator disconnected from the wiring harness, you should get between 70-80 volts AC when the meter leads are attached to any two of the three stator leads.

When you're measuring battery voltage, you use direct current (DC) setting on the meter.

[riskadh]

Should there be a ground wire coming from the stator? If so, where should it be located? I was under the assumption that the only wires coming from the stator, were charged(hot) wires. And if that is the case, that would explain the lack of voltage coming from the stator? I have the ground wire from the r/r hooked up to the - post on the battery and the negative battery cable has a good ground.

[Billy Ricks]

Should there be a ground wire coming from the stator? If so, where should it be located? I was under the assumption that the only wires coming from the stator, were charged(hot) wires. And if that is the case, that would explain the lack of voltage coming from the stator? I have the ground wire from the r/r hooked up to the - post on the battery and the negative battery cable has a good ground.

She was referring any grounds on the engine or frame. You usually have a large gauge ground near the rear of the transmission. No ground on the stator.

[riskadh]

That's what I was afraid of! The volt meter would never show more than 5-7v on any combination of the wires. I will double check all the grounds again, but it is really beginning to sound like it is just a bad stator. Thanks for the help. :-D

[Billy Ricks]

Make sure you're measuring alternating current (AC) when you're testing the stator. At 5,000 RPM with the stator disconnected from the wiring harness, you should get between 70-80 volts AC when the meter leads are attached to any two of the three stator leads.

When you're measuring battery voltage, you use direct current (DC) setting on the meter.

Make sure you do the test as described.

[riskadh]

Yeah, the voltmeter was set to DC, but still very low readings. Even tested the voltmeter to make sure that it was not defective. So will probably just get another stator. So hopefully, when I get that, one of the two r/r I have will still be good. [-o< Thanks again for the great help and the SUPER FAST responses.

[Billy Ricks]

No sense in taking shots in the dark. Try these tests from my Suzuki manual. It may be easier for you than "The Stator Papers."

You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.

Stator Test

The testing procedure for my 700, yours will be the same, involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. + probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against the other two this way. I'm not sure what voltage you should look for on an 1100, my 700 calls for 80 volts AC. You should get consistent readings on each attempt. These are the three yellow wires under the gas tank.You want to test the ends of the wires coming out of the starter cover under the carbs.

You can do a continuity check using the same procedure. With the motor off and the tester set to check for continuity check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as any breaks. You can test for shorts by testing each with one probe on the wire and the other on the frame. If you get a tone or meter reaction you have a short.

[riskadh]

Holy cow. Well, lot's of internet stores all seem to be sold out of the stators. Looks like I will have to spend a fortune and get it locally if I want to be able to ride before the season ends. If anybody knows of an online shop or a place located near Denver that will have the part at a decent price, please by all means let me know. Thanks :-D

[beby99]

Have you tried Ricks?

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

[riskadh]

Hmm, surprisingly that through all my internet searches, I never came across them. Even better, they had it in stock as well, not to mention for about 100 bucks less than I can get it around town.:-D Thanks for the tip!