How's my head look aka look at these jugs

[crag antler]

I knew I should get some one to look
Here are a few pictures I took after pullling my cylinder head and block.
I have a head gasket leak and figured if I was in the head I might as well replace the block gasket too.
I have a few questions so.......



Seems like I have some carbon build up on both the pistons and the intake valves.
Could this just be residual from a rich setting or what??

How do you remove the residue?

The sleeves look fine and smooth without any wear or grooves...
At 42,000 miles, should I replace the rings even if I did not have a compression issue??

I have new main jets to put in, going back to stock size.112.5
Had 120's in.

Got a new gasket set coming from Z-1. THEY ROCK
Moosy is looking so much clearer daily.

[crag antler]

Couldn't fit the piston shot in.

[focus frenzy]

not the jugs I was hoping to see!

[focus frenzy]

EZ OFF oven cleaner will clean off pretty much everything.
never ever just put a engine back together, unless it was a brand new engine.

measure the cylinders check for roundness and taper all the way down.
if everything is in spec (well in spec is preferred) then hone the cylinders and put on new rings and put her back together.

the residue is a normal by product of combustion.

the exhaust valve color looks good to me, if the plugs are the same medium grey color I would stay with that jetting, running a bit rich helps keep things cool and last longer.

[crag antler]

if the plugs are the same medium grey color I would stay with that jetting, running a bit rich helps keep things cool and last longer.

With this jetting, I have never really been able to get a good carb synch.
Even Jethro and I have attempted it.
Quite a few good shops have tried synchs, but always told me the 120 was a stock main, when I kinda believed 112.5 was stock??
When I put her all back together in the next few weeks, I plan on doing a full carb synch..

[Guest]

Valves look to be in great shape. On the question of the new rings, it comes down to your patience and money. If you got a few extra weeks to spare and want it done right, then go ahead and give the jugs a new mill, and get some new rings.

Also, be sure to clean all the old gasket off your block. I see quite a bit of residue left, and you need the best seal you can get in regards to the new gasket sealing...

[crag antler]

Valves look to be in great shape. On the question of the new rings, it comes down to your patience and money. If you got a few extra weeks to spare and want it done right, then go ahead and give the jugs a new mill, and get some new rings.

Also, be sure to clean all the old gasket off your block. I see quite a bit of residue left, and you need the best seal you can get in regards to the new gasket sealing...

Thanks for the info. These pictures were taken right after I pulled her apart.
Hadn't even done anything yet.
I had fought for about a week to get the head off. Finally had to buy an air compressor to pop the head gasket.

[quiktrp]

Thanks for the info. These pictures were taken right after I pulled her apart.
Hadn't even done anything yet.
I had fought for about a week to get the head off. Finally had to buy an air compressor to pop the head gasket.

Could have loosened all the head bolts and cranked it over. Just as effective and much cheaper

EDIT: Although that is a great excuse to get an air compressor

[koolaid_kid]

You will also want to reseat your valves. I bought some valve grinding compound at PepBoys that worked just fine. That and one of those suction cups, and some good old elbow grease is all you need.

[Clone]

EASY OFF WILL ALSO ETCH THE ALUMINUM AND EAT PAINT:shock:
Use a good engine degreaser and it will clean most of the crud off. Soak the pistons and combustion chamber with atf fluid and it will loosen the carbon. It looks like you have some blowby at the rings and you probably noticed you were burning oil since you have quite the carbon build up.

[Jethro]

Doug, I have used Purple Power, full strength with a brass brush with great success. When I went to the store, I was getting it for the outside of the engine. I asked for some Simple Green, they told me the PP is the same stuff- NO it isn't. I sprayed this stuff on the outside of the engine, in my basement, full strength for about 2 minutes before I almost choked due to the toxic fumes! Stuff is not like the Green stuff at all. Anyway, I got it at Advance Auto, and it was strong enough I used it to decarbon my head and pistons.

But enough of the story. You definitely should take the block to an engine shop and have them check it out. Road Clam said he would be able to evavluate mine. You need to check (as said above) the tolerance of the cyl sleeve. Good compression or not, it would be the right way to go about the rebuild. It's never recommended to use your old rings once you pull the block, but I have heard of people doing so. You should also replace the clips for the wrist pins. Once the pistons come out of the cyls, they can move around and should be replaced. Besides, you will need to bring the pistons to the shop I think, off the crankrods.

I wasn't aware that you were going to pull the block, but it's a good idea. You've done things right so far, why not make sure your engine is good for another 40k miles or more? Better talk to Road Clam, you have a lot of work to do in about a month!

Have you checked your timing chain? I think the tolerance is 120mm +/- over 15 pins? Don't quote me, check the manual.

I've got the stock 112.5 jets in and it runs good, albeit maybe a little lean. If I had one, I'd throw a 115 in there, but it's not nessecary.

As Clone said, the #3 cyl looks like there was a little blowby. You squid!\\/ must have been that trip we took to Rutland last year when I saw 130 on the clock and you were ahead...8-[ Make sure that surface isn't melted. May also wanna have the shop check the plane on the head.

Cleaning up the valve seats was a good suggestion also, if you have can. You shouldn't have to pull the head for a long time, so now is the time.

Looks like I better plan a few trips to Wells in the next month, to make sure this all gets taken care of! You aren't missing Moosy [-o<

[bwringer]

I eventually got tired of trying to scrape the heavily embedded head gasket off my cylinder head.

I ended up taking it to a local machine shop and they checked it for flatness and milled (ground? scraped? lasered? somehow removed?) the tiniest sliver possible (.001 inch - damn machinists can't ever think in metric like me...) off the surface just to clean it up. Basically they "decked" the head a weensy bit to clean up the metal, but not enough to have an effect on compression.

They also ran it through their parts washer, and it looked almost new again. All for only about $30 - $40, IIRC.

[Road_Clam]

Doug in that photo of the underside of the head, if you notice the blow-by burn areas at 11'oclock on cyl #3, and 4, that's a tell tale sign of a blown head gasket. Anyway, buzz me and we will get er' straightened out! You have till April 2 2007, after that we start kicking you in the balz for every day your ugly black engine is still in a "box"......
Rich