850's really burning oil-stupid/easy question

[GregM.]

This is really annoying me, cause it's a clean, all original ,straight, always garaged, everything works on it, 24K mile, bike.

I know this major oil burning has to be either bad rings or bad valves, right??

Stupid, or easy, question from me who doesn't know a lot about this.
Is there anyway, even some of this increased oil burning could come from "too hot a spark plug"?? I'm sure the answer is duh, NO, duh. I'm just trying to rule out any small insignificent thing before I decide what to do about the likely BIG problem.

So, please inform me, "No rookie your oil burning has nothing to do with what kind a plug you're running. Sorry, it IS one of the two biggies mentioned above".

Only reason I ask, is that I haven't ridden this bike a whole lot. And about the time I did start riding it more (and really started monitoring my oil consumption) I put in the NGK B7ES, or whatever it is, instead of the NGK B8-whatever. A friend wanted me to try a slightly hotter plug than stock for some reason. So is there anyway this hotter than stock plug would cause more oil to be burned up??

Thanks for being patient

[Boondocks]

This is really annoying me, cause it's a clean, all original ,straight, always garaged, everything works on it, 24K, bike.

I know this major oil burning has to be either bad rings or bad valves, right??

Stupid, or easy, question from me who doesn't know a lot about this.
Is there anyway, even some of this increased oil burning could come from "too hot a spark plug"?? I'm sure the answer is duh, NO, duh. I'm just trying to rule out any small insignificent thing before I decide what to do about the likely BIG problem.

So, please inform me, "No rookie your oil burning has nothing to do with what kind a plug you're running. Sorry, it IS one of the two biggies mentioned above".

Only reason I ask, is that I haven't ridden this bike a whole lot. And about the time I did start riding it more (and really started monitoring my oil consumption) I put in the NGK B7ES, or whatever it is, instead of the NGK B8-whatever. A friend wanted me to try a slightly hotter plug than stock for some reason. So is ther anyway this hotter than stock plug would cause more oil to be burned up??

Thanks for being patient

Excessive oil burning is likely to be caused by rings or valve guides. It has nothing to do with spark plugs. Heavy oil burning tends to foul the plugs, so the advice to run a hotter plug would be an attempt to keep the plugs from fouling. It won't cause any more oil to be burned, but may help to keep the plugs cleaner until the engine is repaired.

[Guest]

How's your oil level?
Do a compression check on a warm engine with your throttle all the way open. You can buy a compression guage at any auto parts store. If your readings are low (around 100 psi) pour a little oil in the spark plug hole and see if the psi rises. If it does your rings need replaced and cylinders need honed. If the psi stays the same it's time for a valve job.

[Steve]

[quote=chef1366;570216] pour a little oil in the spark plug hole and see if the psi rises.

Keep in mind that you don't need a lot of oil. A couple of tablespoons in each cylinder will do. All you are trying to do is to seal the gap around the rings, not fill the entire cylinder.

In fact, if you put too much oil in there (and I am not sure how much it would take), you will exceed the compressed volume in the cylinder head. Most oil is not very compressible, and this will cause an expensive repair job. If you are lucky, the starter will stall, preventing damage. If you have a strong starter and battery, it is possible to bend a rod or a crank.

[Dave8338]

[QUOTE=Steve;570236]

pour a little oil in the spark plug hole and see if the psi rises.

Keep in mind that you don't need a lot of oil. A couple of tablespoons in each cylinder will do. All you are trying to do is to seal the gap around the rings, not fill the entire cylinder.

In fact, if you put too much oil in there (and I am not sure how much it would take), you will exceed the compressed volume in the cylinder head. Most oil is not very compressible, and this will cause an expensive repair job. If you are lucky, the starter will stall, preventing damage. If you have a strong starter and battery, it is possible to bend a rod or a crank.

Also, make sure to measure the exact same amount of oil for each cylinder or your readings will not be accurate.

[jimcor]

If you do have a 'stuck ring' you can do an engine 'flash flush' cleaning. Use Berryman's B-12 Chemtool, add the reccomended amount to the oil after the bike has been ridden to operating temperature. Then ride the bike as slowly as possible for about 30 minutes or so. Don't stress the engine or transmission at all, the only reason you're riding it is to keep the bike from overheating. Then change oil and filter. Might work. Might not. [-o<

[mixongw]

I had been using Castrol GTX 10W40 but switched to Castrol GPS 20W50 synthetic and now it uses more oil than before. No leaks anywhere, just burning it in the usual way, I guess. I guess I'll switch back to the GTX.

[bwringer]

Another possibility for where the oil is going is leaking valve stem seals. Does it smoke when you start it?

24k is very few miles on this engine -- mine is at almost 80,000 hard miles on the original bores, and uses no oil. I doubt anything is worn out on yours, but you could certainly have a seal or head gasket dumping oil into the cylinders.

[GregM.]

Thanks y'all VERY much. Your thoughts and advice are really helpful to me.

Yeah, I was sure a hotter plug wouldn't lead to MORE oil burn... But due to my lack of experience compared to you all - I had to rule it out... just one of those timing/coincidence kinds of things you notice sometimes.

Yeah, as time allows, I'll do ALL that you recommend. I'm using 10/40 pennzoil. And yes, it smokes a little.

[Guest]

Pennzoil??
Don't get us started:shock:

[GregM.]

HAhahaha

Come on now What, is GTX 10/40 better ??

I figured dino is dino... right ?? I mean, we're not talking a brand new Porsche, or 'Busa here... Pennzoil was on sale last time I bought it. Change the oil&filter every couple K - no big deal, right?
Actually, I'll have the Pennzoil used up after the next change - and already bought the Castrol (cause IT was now on sale) for the next several oil changes.

Seriously - Is someone here going to tell me I'm burning up so much oil because I've been using Pennzoil ?? You can see you've got me worried now. Just kidding

[Tom MLC]

Stand back Greg!

Oil type is THE #1 favorite topic on this site. Everyone agrees to disagree! There are more opinions then members. Dino vs Synth, Synth Blend, 10W-, 20W-, etc.

The can is open...

Guess I should start it off. I run Castrol synth blend in my 1100, and Rotella full synth in my 1000. Gonna go with the full synth in both bikes this off season.

BTW, I agree with most of the input in this thread. Chef1366 said a compression tester could be purchased at any auto parts store. True enough, but it may not fit your bike. Check the size of the threads on the plug first. I think it is not the same size as an auto plug. You should look for a compression tool for motorcycles. Motion Pro makes a kit that has three different sizes.

[salty_monk]

The tester I had has a rubber bung on the end, you simply hold it in place by hand (lean on it) not so easy to do with the GS though (inside plugs) & you'll need a mate to help you probably.

Dan

[Guest]

The compression tool I bought had many different size threads.

[Tom MLC]

Just to set the record straight, I wasn't trying to dis you. Just suggesting to Greg that there are differences in auto & bike spark plugs. I didn't know this at first myself. Bought a compression tester at PEP Boys and it didn't fit!8-O Found out the hard way. I shoulda asked the GS Guru's first!](*,)

The compression tool I bought had many different size threads.