Valve Gap adjustments

[tomcat24551]

I have the same problem with the Motion Pro depressor tool. You must very carefully position it or it squirts off the side of the bucket. It works if you mess around with it but it's a pain.

I have the OEM Suzuki tool. You have to position it carefully on some buckets--the inner ones as I remember--or it'll slip off. I've never considered it a "pain", however.

If you can find 0.001" shimstock, you've found your 0.03mm feeler gauge...

I have bought .001 shimstock from the Snap-on or MAC Tool trucks. Get several blades and be careful with it. It's super thin and kinks easily. Kinks skew the measurement.

Everything in robertbarr's post is spot on in my opinion. Excellent advice! The only thing I would add to it is to always follow the OEM Suzuki Shop manual sequence. This procedure has been covered in these forums several times and in my opinion, it's the only way to get consistent readings.

Tomcat

[t3rmin]

Someone said if its marked with an "X" its slightly thinner or thicker? I didnt know about this. Some of mine are marked with an "X" but not all. Any info would be appreciated.

Measure 'em and see for yourself! ;-) The x ones are slightly thinner or thicker, so as to be an in-between size. I just can't remember which one it is (thinner or thicker). It's actually really handy to know this if you want to get 'er really dialed-in good.

[mortation]

Measure 'em and see for yourself! ;-) The x ones are slightly thinner or thicker, so as to be an in-between size. I just can't remember which one it is (thinner or thicker). It's actually really handy to know this if you want to get 'er really dialed-in good.

Someone measure one so we can settle the thinner thicker confusion

[Nessism]

X shims are thicker.

[Tarbash 27]

Are you sure. I would measure but my micrometer is a POS. About how much bigger are the X's?

[bwringer]

About how much bigger are the X's?

The X shims are .02mm or .03mm thicker than the marked size.

For example, a "2.70x" shim will measure 2.72mm or 2.73mm.

You can't buy "x" shims -- they were only used at the factory, so any "x" shims you find are either original or were swapped in at some point. I have shims from three engines in my collection (plus lots of aftermarket shims I've purchased), and I think maybe five or six are "x" shims.

I don't know if "x" shims were the result of ultra-precise manufacturing standards or just a way to use up slightly out-of-tolerance shims.

The "x" shims can be handy if you're picky enough to want to set the clearance in the middle of the range (.05mm) rather than at one end of the allowed range (.03mm - .08mm). That's getting into a dangerous level of obsession, but if you have "x" shims, you might as well use them.

You should always measure shims before installing -- I've always found the Suzuki shims to be dead on as marked, but some aftermarket shims might be off by .01mm or .02mm. And, of course, many shims somehow lose their markings totally along the way, so you're forced to measure them.

I have a divided plastic box with a spot for every size and a space for the tappet tool and feeler gauges, and I track the results of each valve check in a notebook. That way, I can usually predict which shims I'll need next and make sure I have them handy.

[bwringer]

How bout this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-6...QQcmdZViewItem

Yup, that's exactly what I have. The Chinese-made unit with the red, yellow, and blue buttons seems to be pretty common and inexpensive. It's surprisingly high quality, and mine has been dead accurate and perfectly consistent for the three or four years I've had it. The button battery will poop out after a year or so, but they thoughtfully include a spare, and it's a common size.

[mortation]

OK My gauges only go down to .038, here is where I am at:

1 Intake: OK
1 Exhaust: OK

2 Intake: OK
2 Exhaust: >.038 (could be out of range)

3 Intake: OK
3 Exhaust: >.038 (Could be out of range)

4 Intake: >.038 (Could be out of range)
4 Exhaust: OK

In my "don't know jack" opinion I think at least one if not all of the >.038's are touching. You can feel it when spinning. But like I would know :P

Soooo whats everyones thoughts? Scrounge up the flow for some proper gauges, a shim tool, and some shims? I already need gaskets, they didnt wanna come off

I have covered the engine with a trash bag because i could already see dust particles and I dont want crap in there, will that be ok till I get this done?

PS: Anyone in NH who wants free food and beer who has shims and tools let me know when you want to come over

[bwringer]

Usually, all I do when they're touching or smaller than .04mm is take out the shim that's in there, measure it, and put in the next smaller size.

Since you don't have a stock of spare shims, you'll need to document all 8 of the shims you have.

*** Do NOT rotate the engine with ANY shim removed. ***
In order to swap any shims, you would need at least one extra shim. Since you don't have any extras, measure all of them, put them back, then plan your moves before you order shims.

Personally, I would simply order the next smaller two sizes for each of the tight valves.

For example, if there's a 2.75mm shim on a valve with little or no clearance, order a 2.70 and a 2.65 and you can be fairly confident that one of those will take care of that valve.

Shims are only $5 each from Z1 or CRC2. Order lots:

http://z1enterprises.com/

http://crc2onlinecatalog.com/

[mortation]

Hopefully my tappet depressor will be in tomorrow so I can wrap this part of the project up (well after ordering and installing the shims :P). When I install the cover on the new gasket do I put anything down, sealant or something? Or just torq it down criss cross and done?

[Tarbash 27]

I just finished my valves 4 days ago. I Cleaned up the valve cover gasket nice as well as the cylinder head and put a new gasket on and it fit real good. I did not use any sealant because I dont expect it to leak. Consider getting a new breather cover gasket too and clean that thing out.

[mortation]

I just finished my valves 4 days ago. I Cleaned up the valve cover gasket nice as well as the cylinder head and put a new gasket on and it fit real good. I did not use any sealant because I dont expect it to leak. Consider getting a new breather cover gasket too and clean that thing out.

Yea I got both gaskets. Anythign special on the cleaning? Chemicals? Scrubs? Anything I should watch out for?

[Nessism]

Usually, all I do when they're touching or smaller than .04mm is take out the shim that's in there, measure it, and put in the next smaller size.

Since you don't have a stock of spare shims, you'll need to document all 8 of the shims you have.

Personally, I would simply order the next smaller two sizes for each of the tight valves.

For example, if there's a 2.75mm shim on a valve with little or no clearance, order a 2.70 and a 2.65 and you can be fairly confident that one of those will take care of that valve.

Shims are only $5 each from Z1 or CRC2. Order lots:

http://z1enterprises.com/

http://crc2onlinecatalog.com/

Measuring all 8 shims is ideal but not necessary at this point. You can attack the valves that are tight and wait till next time on the others. But of course, you may be in the same situation next time in that you may have to order shims.

[mortation]

Are the 29.5mm Valve Shim's from CRC2 the right ones?

I need if anyone has:

2 x 2.55
3 x 2.50

[spchips]

a preload adjuster tool seems to make a great tappet holder.

my two cents. for all I know I'm destroying the whole thing