GS1000 valve clearance problem

[NitroGS]

Keith Krause Carb Jetting Suzuki GS1000

Hi Keith,

Thank you so much for the in depth reply. From reading your thread I have been scouring the internet for a dynojet stage 3 kit for the GS it sounds to me to be the best chance for getting the jetting right. I have managed to find one (albeit very expensive in the UK $220+ postage). It should be here Keith tomorrow hopefully.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. If you need help, let me know.

[NitroGS]

Be in touch Keith

Certainly will Keith, the UK company has let me down on the Stage 3 Dynojet Kit, so I have ordered a kit through Bikebandit in the US. Still awaiting the carbs, so I have been left twiddling my thumbs and polishing until the parts arrive. Will be in touch very shortly my friend

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The Bikebandit price is fair. The pic they show under '78/'79 1000 and what's in the kit isn't correct though. Maybe their pic is just a generic pic and doesn't show exactly what your model gets.
Bikebandit is using their own p/n. The correct DJ stage 3 p/n is 3304. I hope that's what they send you.

[NitroGS]

Hi Keith,

You and me too, I want to get this beast up and running. We have a Classic Bike outing last week in September, my throttle arm is itching.

[NitroGS]

Hi Guys,

Got the bank of VM carbs today for the Suzuki GS1000E, I have stripped them down and cleaned all parts. Noticed a scratch on one of the slides the inner bore of the carb is fine pic included click http://www.minimotos4u.com/throttleslide.htm will this be okay. I have all the parts from my old bank of carbs. Will be fitting the new O rings tomorrow

[Nessism]

Can you take a slide from the other bank of carbs? If so, I'd do it and put the scratched slide with the part's carbs. Regarding the scratch itself, doesn't look too bad. My guess is that it would be okay.

[NitroGS]

Hi there,

I certainly can take one of the slides from the other bank of carbs, i have 4 spares. Just wondered if it was accepted practise to do so[-o<

[don_gibb6512]

I've had scratched slides before and I carefully smoothed out the scratch with some emery cloth. As long as it's not binding the slide, the scratch didn't seem to make any difference at all that I could tell. Just be certain it's not binding and fix whatever caused the scratch in the first place.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Quite a scratch there. Since you have spares, I'd replace it.
I'd like to see what caused the scratch. Anything you see in the carb body?
As part of any rebuild, I always check the body for any burrs. Then I polish the body.
What I do is to use some Mothers, Semi-chrome, or Blue Magic aluminum polish or silmilar. Nothing more aggressive. Using a small amount at a time, I work the polish into the cloth first. Then, with my index finger, I rub straight up and down and get about 1/2 the body polished. Add a little more paste and then finish the body. I even keep a rough count of how many times I rub each body but that's probably not necessary. You don't need to rub hard.
Get a fresh cloth and buff out the residue. Carbs inside will be like a mirror. They sure feel smoother to me.
Maybe it's overkill but it's what I like to do.
PS: remember, if you dis-assemble the carb bodies completely, you must be aware that the main fuel "T" sometimes will leak after you put them together. The other 2 fuel connectors can too but it's less common.
Hopefully, your "T" doesn't leak but do pour some fuel in and test before mounting.
There are fixes if you do see leaking.
Also, use blue thread lock on the 8 recessed Phillips screws that hold the carbs to the bracket.

[NitroGS]

Excellent thanks for that Keith. By the why my dynojet kit is arriving tomorrow. Can you give me some pointers of my requirements. Just to remind you:

Suzuki GS1000E fitted with 1085cc Wiseco Kit, will be running a Vance & Hines street megaphone 4 into 1 and velocity stacks. Prior to rebuilding the bike was running on 120 mains and 15 pilots with needle clip set on the second groove from the bottom

[NitroGS]

Question for Keith Krause

Hi Keith

The dynojet kit is due today my friend, what will be the best starting point please

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi. Just noticed this as I'm going to bed. Very late here.
I'll suggest some jetting for your DJ kit in the morning. I find most 1000's end up with fairly similar jetting but I take my advice seriously and I try to guess it right the first try. Your stacks are a concern and also your climate. Not "the norm" for me but I can adjust for them. Usually on the damp side/high humidity, correct??
I'll suggest something in the morning when I've got a little more time to think.

[NitroGS]

Hi Keith

Little bit like New York, damp 8 months of the year, then warm for 4 months, humidity fairly high. Look forward to hearing back from you Keith, many thanks.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi. Didn't mean to keep you waiting but by the time I saw your post, it was late and I worked on my bike in a hot garage all day. I found time to help another member but had to get to bed. I have to finish my bike today but I've got some time.
Believe it or not, I've spent some time thinking about your situation, just like it was my own bike, and I just can't come up with a set up that I'm sure will fix you up the first try. As I said earlier, I'm no expert with stacks and I've only received only limited feedback from helping members in very different climates. I'm learning here too. That said...
I just want to say one more time that I recommend the K&N ovals. I know, I know.
The main thing is, the DJ kit, or any other stage 3 kit, isn't designed for stacks. We all know jetting can be trial and error, even with a kit. Add parts that aren't designed to match the mods and it can be more difficult.
I feel the stacks will draw in moisture to the point of corrosion issues. Maybe I'm wrong. I KNOW the unfiltered air will lead to increased wear from dirtier oil. The small HP advantage gained (about 1 HP? and at only very high rpm's) simply isn't worth it, even if I guess the jetting right the first time. I suppose if the bike doesn't accumulate a lot of miles, it will last a long time without significant problems. But if my bike, there's no way I let the cost of the filters get in the way here. Had to say it one more time.
Sorry for the long post but I have a habit of explaining my thoughts, not just saying do this or do that. Others may be interested and I take that into consideration too.
As for your jetting, the stacks create the biggest guess. What I can't decide 100% is how they might effect the overlap between the jet needle and the main. I'm concerned about roll on performance (from about 60 mph, top gear, then full roll on.) In my mind, the stacks have a dual personality. I think they don't contribute significantly more air than pods unless you really open it up. I think they contribute about the same flow at lesser throttle openings and especially at lower rpm's. So at these smaller (below 3/4) throttle openings, the typical jet needle adjustments and the 138 mains make sense. But I think the bike may now starve at full throttle/high rpm's if I choose the smaller main jet, which more often than not works well with pipe/pods. The stacks WILL want more fuel at full throttle/high rpm's. But it's a possibility that the larger 142 main may create a bog during a roll on because the stacks don't have the same effect at smaller throttle openings/lower rpm's. Kind of a catch 22. Possible good mixing at both the jet needle and main circuits but with an overlap bog, or good mixing at the jet needle with no overlap bog but the top end off a little because of the smaller main. If that were to happen, I always sacrifice a little top end because I insist on getting the jet needle right, if I must pick which one. DJ does make 140 mains and that may be a compromise that works.
The bike may want the jet needle a little richer than I have in mind and this would just aggravate the overlap problem. It's the darn stacks.
I have factored in your climate but I don't think it cancels out the stacks at every point. I do think they cancel each other out at smaller throttle openings and warmer weather, but the rest of the time I just don't know.
Sorry to ramble. The bog issue I bring up is just something I've seen with many VM bikes. Who knows, maybe I'm just wasting time worrying about it.
I can say that I believe there are only 2 jet needle positions that will work in your case...the 4th position (most common) and the 4 1/2 position. If I'm right, that means you shouldn't have to adjust the needles more than once if the first try isn't right. The needles are the most work and moving them requires the carbs to be bench and vacuum synched AGAIN.
I'd go with the 142 mains.
With some doubt, I'd try the needle e-clips at position 4 from the top. I have to say that the general rule in jetting is to go rich and work your way back. There's a good chance your e-clips may need to be in position 5 from the top with the DJ jetting spacer directly on top the clip. That is position 4 1/2. If the stacks do lean it out more than I think while on the jet needles, 4 1/2 would probably be better. But I'm guessing 4. I hope it's right. Very mixed feelings here as I've said.
The DJ kit is designed to work with the stock 15 pilot jets but not your stacks. Since I feel the stacks aren't effecting the pilot circuit enough, I'd stick with the stock pilots and leave it to the pilot fuel screws underneath to help the pilot jet enough. I think I'd start at 1 1/2 turns out from LIGHTLY seated. Your stacks may cause some significant deceleration popping because the carbs are under the leanest conditions at nearly closed/closed throttle and I can see the stacks aggravating that. Be sure you have new exhaust gaskets and don't blame all the poppng on the jetting. A little is acceptable to me. You can cause worse problems by trying to eliminate all the popping. If it seems lean, try up to 2 1/2 or even 3 turns out on the pilot screws. If poor results, you'll need the correct length 17.5 pilot jets and return the screws to close to factory, about 1 turn out.
The side air screws are always set using the highest rpm method. Initially set at 1 3/4 turn out.
REMOVE the 2 floatbowl vent lines and leave the ports open to avoid possible fuel starvation.
The carbs must be bench synched for fully closed and fully open positions.
If bench synched well, it will start up.
Warm up fully. Set idle to 1,000 rpm's. Adjust air screws. Starting at any carb, slowly turn in either direction until you hear the rpm's max. Fine tune the screw. Return the idle to 1,000 if necessary by using the idle adjuster knob. Repeat to the other 3.
Now vacuum synch with a gauge.
Test the mains at full throttle.
Test the jet needles at 1/3 throttle.
Test the pilot circuit at minimal throttle, a steady 35/40 mph in 4th/5th gear is good.
In all cases, warm up fully, run a couple miles and judge performance then chop off and read the plugs.
I really can't say how the jetting will respond (if it is right the first try) when your weather changes. I hope it will be acceptable year round.
Let us know how it goes.