GS1000 valve clearance problem

[NitroGS]

Many thanks Keith, for the in depth reply. Received the dynojet stage 3 kit today. Polished the carb inner bores exchanged the scratched slide for a good one. Taking the carbs to work tonight to blow with compressed air, everything is lovely and clean. Fitting all new o rings tomorrow with the jet kit. Still waiting for my darn intake rubbers in the post when they arrive all systems go.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. I'll be around.
Thought I'd share a pic of my bike. '79 GS1000E. I'm the original owner.
Over 130,000 miles total. I used to have a nice website to show her off better, but my new service axed that.
She runs great. Still surprises quite a few newer bikes if I'm not in the mood to be passed. It's harder than they think. 1085/light head polish/V&H/K&N's/DJ kit/Dyna coils and S ignition/cams timed at 106/welded and polished crank/welded clutch basket/etc.
I kept the stock ergonomics because it's just so comfortable to ride. But it does help contribute to the "sleeper" look. No bike with stock bars can be quick or fast, right?
I agree the faired look and lower bars look cool though. I may someday go that way, after I semi-retire her. Right now, I ride too much to compromise comfort.

[NitroGS]

Hi Keith,

Absolutely stunning bike, love it.

I was just looking at my old set of carbs and noticed on the air intake side at the base are two small apertures. My new bank of carbs have a jet in one of the apertures for each carb whereas my old set does not, odd.
My previous setup with the velocity stacks and performance exhaust was with 120 mains, 15 pilot jets and needles on 4th groove. Rollon was good, with the ability to loft the front wheel in first on the throttle. Looking forward to doing the dynojetting.

[NitroGS]

Hi Guys Suzuki GS1000E 1979 VM carbs

Just a quick question I have noticed when disconnecting the throttle operating arm from the throttle slides there is a small shim plate with three holes. There is a dimple on the shim plate, on two of the slides the dimple was on top and the other two the dimple was faced down. Which way should the dimple go please up or down?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi Keith,

Absolutely stunning bike, love it.

I was just looking at my old set of carbs and noticed on the air intake side at the base are two small apertures. My new bank of carbs have a jet in one of the apertures for each carb whereas my old set does not, odd.
My previous setup with the velocity stacks and performance exhaust was with 120 mains, 15 pilot jets and needles on 4th groove. Rollon was good, with the ability to loft the front wheel in first on the throttle. Looking forward to doing the dynojetting.

The jet in the filter side is the air jet. Air enters and goes to the needle jet/bleedpipe. It atomizes the mixture. Without it, that part of the carbs operation was very lean. Be glad the new carbs have the jets. I can't understand why someone would remove them but there are people out there that have no business touching carbs, among other things.
From my experience, I'm surprised if you liked the performance before from the 120 mains. 120's are small in my opinion for these mods.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi Guys Suzuki GS1000E 1979 VM carbs

Just a quick question I have noticed when disconnecting the throttle operating arm from the throttle slides there is a small shim plate with three holes. There is a dimple on the shim plate, on two of the slides the dimple was on top and the other two the dimple was faced down. Which way should the dimple go please up or down?

Dimple down.
When assembled, the dimple will contact the jet needles thicker plastic ring that sits on top the e-clip. Under the spring pressure, the dimple causes an uneven surface that forces the jet needle to be cocked to the rear. The needle must be in this condition or it will pre-maturely wear itself out from unwanted rotation and vibrations. Luckily, your new DJ needles will eliminate any care about possible jet needle damage.
I use a very small dab of grease to make the brass plate stick to the bottom of the throttle arm. I then drop in the 2 Phillips screws and lower it into the slide as an assembly. Without 3 hands, screwdriver in mouth, ready to start the screws.
Since the previous owner(s) did things like placing the plate upside down, be careful to check everything well. Make sure the two plastic spacers for the jet needles are installed in correct order. Thicker above the e-clip, thinner under the clip. Things like that. If you have a question, just ask before doing something that doesn't feel right. If needed, I have many VM carb posts about various things, so a search may help if I can't reply soon enough. I work all this week and I can only reply at night if you need my help. There is a very good VM carb rebuild section here that a member allowed me to help with and it can help you too.
PS: Be sure to bench synch for the fully opened and fully closed slide positions. This must be followed by a vacuum tool synch.

[NitroGS]

Hi Keith,

Thank you again. Part of the instructions for the dynojet kit that i have recieved are missing. Obviously there are not too many parts to not know where things go. The small spacers that are provided, I assume they go the top of the e clip. Are these spacers only used to half movements so if I setting to the fourth groove do I not need to fit the washer

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi Keith,

Thank you again. Part of the instructions for the dynojet kit that i have recieved are missing. Obviously there are not too many parts to not know where things go. The small spacers that are provided, I assume they go the top of the e clip. Are these spacers only used to half movements so if I setting to the fourth groove do I not need to fit the washer

Correct. They are for 1/2 position changes.
If the 4th position from the top isn't rich enough, and depending on plug color/performance, the next richer position to try would be 4 1/2, which means to place the e-clip in the 5th position from the top and lay the jetting spacer directly on top the clip.
I feel one of these two positions should work for you as I said earlier. It sounds like you're trying the 4th position and I hope it will be right.
I'm off to work sir. You have a good day.

[NitroGS]

Thanks Keith,

Just to update you meticulously assembled al the carb components including o rings. Checked once, twice and three times that everything is as it should be. I have taken your recomendations fully. Gone with the 142 DJ mains, stock 15 pilots (I do have a set of 17.5's if need be). Pilot fuel screws out 1.5 turns from lightly seated and pilot air screws 1.75 turns from lightly seated. E clip in the fourth groove without adjuster washer fitted. Had to get ready for a night shift so called it a day for now. Looking forward to next part. Have a good day, speak soon.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. Be sure the bench synch is good. That will make the vacuum synch easier/quicker.
I assume you know how to bench synch both the fully open and fully closed positions? If needed, I have a detailed post on how to bench synch if you search at Mark Hoomgar's thread "GS1K bad fuel economy attn Keith Krause".
If the bench synch is done right, add enough turns at the idle adjuster knob and it should start right up.
After full warm up, then you can fine tune the side air screws using the highest rpm method. Don't just assume they are close enough at the initial 1 3/4 turns out point. That's a "start up" setting I suggest because they usually end up somewhere between 1 1/2 and 2 turns out after fine tuning. I understand you may use the Colortune to set the air screws and the pilot fuel screws, that's fine if it works. I have no trouble adjusting the air screws by ear but some do. As for the pilot fuel screws, I do what the plugs and performance say after minimal throttle testing.
Once the air screws are set, I'd let the bike cool down some before hooking up the vacuum gauge. But if you know how to synch quickly, then I guess over-heating isn't an issue.
If needed, I mentioned a few things about the vacuum tool synch at reply #15. If you don't have much experience with synching these carbs, it's quite easy to find yourself making adjustments that are too much and you can find yourself going back and forth with the levels. Like anything, it can take some practice to make the adjustments quickly. You'll see how little adjustments effect the levels.
Be sure the gauge is connected with no leaks or kinks.
I just use the gas tank mounted safely on a bench with extra long fuel and vacuum lines. If you prefer to use a hanging reservoir, be sure it's vented properly so fuel will flow easily.
Hope it goes well.

[NitroGS]

Thank again. This will be my first time at vacuum synching and I have read your threads Keith on the principle. At work all today and tomorrow will give it a go Friday. Got the new intake boots today in the post eventually. Have a good day my friend

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. Once in awhile you get lucky and if the bench synch was excellent, you may find the needed adjustments are minor and quick to do.
Remember, use good fitting tools and don't over-tighten things. The factory calls for just 3.5 ft/lb on the holder nuts that hold the adjuster screws. Also, 4 ft/lb on the throttle arm to throttle shaft bolts. Very easy to over-tighten when working with small hardware and it's unnecessary and can cause problems.
I think you'll do fine. Ask if something hangs you up. I'll try to reply as soon as possible.

[NitroGS]

Your help is very much appreciated, and it is reassuring to know there is someone with you every step of the way.

[NitroGS]

Hi Keith

Just a catchup note. Spent the last few days busy at work. Got the carbs all put back together, thoroughly cleaned with new o rings and fully bench synched. Brand new Kawasaki boots fitted, high temp grease used on the mating surface. I have splashed out Keith (the wife isn't aware) and got the K&N pods. The pods are now fitted, also finished fitting the Vance Hines exhaust today. Filled the bike with top quality engine oil and new oil filter. Igniton timing spot on with the Dyna S system, brand new Dynatek leads and spark plugs. Already to fire up (hopefully tomorrow). Will try tuning the air screws using the highest rev technique. Then progress to the vacuum synch. Watch this space.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

For all the reasons I previously said, I think you made a good choice by getting the K&N's. The stacks really don't serve much useful purpose unless you're drag racing.
Only thing is, I believe the 142 mains which I suggested to work with the stacks, will probably be too large now. I feel better about the jet needle suggestion now. The 4th position has worked the majority of the time in your situation. It may have been possible that position 4 1/2 could be better but that was only because of the possible leaner effect from the stacks.
My bike apparently could handle the 142's at full throttle/high rpm/hard acceleration but after correctly jetting the jet needle, there was a momentary bog during a typical roll on/passing test. It's possible I MAY have lost a couple mph at absolute top end but I found the bog to be unacceptable and if ever presented with this kind of situation, I always opt for getting the jet needle right since you spend the most time riding on the needles or a combo of the needles and pilot circuit. Some may try to eliminate the bog by going a little leaner on the needles but that's wrong in my opinion. The bog, right at a time when the main jet momentarily overlaps with the jet needle, has happened on some other bikes I've worked on in the past, some worse than others. Sometimes the problem would clear pretty quickly but it shouldn't happen at all.
A few GS1000 owners here, with similar mods, have sent me their carbs to rebuild and to install the same DJ kit. Each time I opted for the 138 and everyone was happy with the performance. I can't say if they tested as I told them to but I'll take their word for it. I have other jetting experience in the past and the 138 choice has worked well. Because of your more often than not "richer" weather there, I feel even more so that you should put the 138's in now.
Jetting can vary from bike to bike. Climate matters a lot. Basic engine tuning such as timing advance choice will effect the performance and the jetting needs. You can tinker and get varying results. Maybe advancing the timing 3 to 7 degrees or so would work with the 142's but you get deeper into things.
To replace the mains easier, I find it easy to remove the bowls with a short screwdriver. Just don't let the unfamiliar procedure cause you to under or over-tighten a part. Also, be sure the bowls are re-seated flush to avoid leaks. I can't easily explain it but the VM bowls can be installed a little too far forward and they won't slip into place just right. The result will be a leak in short time. Installing them with the carbs on the bike could cause this at times. Of course, with the pods, the carbs come off pretty quick anyways and it's probably best to remove them and do the job the usual way. You can always try the 142's but I feel the 138's are the better choice.
Can't wait to hear the test results. Hope the carb synch goes well. It's a very important part of the jetting.
I'll be working later than normal this week so if you need help and I'm a little late with a reply, then you know why.