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    Gear change Spring

    Hi all, it seems that my gear change return spring has broken on my 1980 gsx750et as it stays in the up or down position when changing gear and dosent return to the centre, Before i get greasy hands pulling it apart my question is, is the return spring easy to replace external or is it a big strip down job internal? Thanks for any help.

    #2
    You have to split the cases.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      On the 8 valve engines, you just have to remove the clutch hub, and the pawl mechanism and spring are right there.

      I've never looked inside the bottom end of a 16V engine, though. Is this spring really internal on the 16V engines? Or am I thinking of the wrong spring?

      Hard to tell from the fiche, but it looks about the same. I'll shut up now, and let those who actually have seen these parts reply...

      1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
      2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
      2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
      Eat more venison.

      Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

      Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

      SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

      Get "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at https://tro.bike/podcast/ or wherever you listen to podcasts!

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        #4
        Thats it, and your right about just pulling the shaft out. Cases will not need to be split. Kicker is I have never seen or heard of this spring breaking. I have seen people bend the shafts. Could be binding some place else too.

        Comment


          #5
          I was thinking of the spring on the shifter forks. Sorry.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            my educated guess is that either the spring will have come unhooked or the shaft has been bent, either is a dead easy fix :-D i've never seen one of these springs break yet but theres a first time for everything i suppose, still an easy job to replace if it comes to that :-D

            Comment


              #7
              I'm also wondering whether one of the tiny bits in the pawl mechanism is stuck or broken.

              Either way, the spring and the pawl mechanism are both easily reached by removing the clutch.
              1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
              2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
              2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
              Eat more venison.

              Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

              Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

              SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

              Get "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at https://tro.bike/podcast/ or wherever you listen to podcasts!

              Comment


                #8
                I had the gear change spring come out of position when I replaced the oil seal on my gear change shift shaft (say that quickly:-D). As stated, it is easiest to reposition with the clutch removed, however I think it can be accomplished without removal if you can carefully pry it into position using a long thin screwdriver and pair of hemostats (locking needlenose pliers). On my 650, I did try in vain, but finally pulled the clutch and fixed it without nearly the aggravation. Big trouble with clutch is the large nut that holds it on, I suggest an impact gun for removal if available. Good luck and report back, inquiring minds want to know what happened.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks for all the info , i will be having a look at it tommorow so will post my findings, thanks again all.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i would be just a little

                    careful of what you decided to do .personall experince tell me i would remove the engine and oil pan and check whats in there first.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The spring and shaft pull out once the clutch is removed. No other problems with it.

                      Don't forget to remove the retaining clip (No31 on the above picture) which is hidden under the sprocket cover and all that grease.

                      Suzuki mad

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