hello everyone this is my first time on this site and it looks like a great site i love my GS.my problem is it doesnt charge i here they had a problem with stators i tested mine and at 5k rpms its only putting out 40amps and it shoudl be 80 because mine is a tcss engine.can anyone tel me what years and what bikes will interchange so i can find one for my bike thanks alot for your help
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The stator should be putting out 80 volts AC on each phase/leg at 5K rpm, not amps. After being rectified to DC current, that is approximately 8 amps per phase for a total output of 24 amps.
I believe 1980 was an change year and used a smaller diameter crankshaft end than years before and after 80, so consequently, the only stator that will fit that bike is one specified for that single year.
Earl
Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T. -
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80-82 actually Earl. But you are correct. The pre 80 model 750s i believe (hard to remember without looking at it) an 12 pole stator, while the 80-82 model used a 18 pole. I am not sure what happened in 83, whether they went back to the 12, or stuck with the 18, but I do know that in 83 they changed quite a bit on the 750 design. He would be ok, however, with a stator from an 80-82 750.Comment
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Hee Haw Howdy!
Hi Mr. gobabygo_gt350,
Since you are new here, you must read, study, and learn the following information. It will literally save you hours of searching for this information and asking many questions that have already been answered. I offer you my mega-welcome! \\
/
Dear fellow GS rider,
Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!
Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.
These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:
Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
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Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.
These common issues are:
1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
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OEM Parts/Online Fiches:
I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.
Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:
http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:
GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)
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If your stator is definitely faulty and as scarse as it seems, rather have it rewound if possible.Comment
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82 GS750E Stator Replacement
The responses have been great and very informational. Am I supposed to add my situation here or post a new topic? I'm not sure but here goes. I ordered a new stator from Dennis Kirk and it came from Rick's in the northeast. I put it in and the lights were never brighter. I washed the bike and then noticed some oil leaking from the magneto cover. I got another gasket and replaced it the next day but noticed the lights were not as bright now. I performed the GS Resources charging system check and all three stator wires read ground to the engine case when they should read open. When I put the new gasket on, I didn't remove the stator, only the wire run to the seat area. My main question is, am I going to have the same problem when I plunk down another $150.00 for another stator or did I probably mess something up by opening up the magneto casing again? Thanks for any feedback. ScottComment
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Cooking with electrons
Hi Mr. sceltuar,
You really should start your own thread, if for no other reason than not to confuse me. 8-[
There should be absolutely no electrical connection between the stator legs and the chassis/engine (ground). Is it possible that, while you were removing and reinstalling the wires during the gasket replacement, you accidentally stripped some insulation away from the stator wires and left them shorted to the engine case?
Start your own thread and you'll get your own mega-welcome! \\/
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffComment
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