block leak gs1100

[monte]

how to repair oil leak from the block at the front just above the oil filter cover? (not the cover O-ring) tks. monte

[Guest]

Change the base gasket.

[TheCafeKid]

Change the base gasket.

While your at it, you'll need to change the head gasket, and valve cover gasket as well, as likely they'll both be ruined by removal to get to the base gasket. And, since you have the head off, You might consider changing your valve guide seals, and checking and or replacing your piston rings and re-honing the bores. Clean the piston crowns, and the valves too, and you've pretty much done a complete top end rebuild How cool is that!?!

[monte]

Done the top end rebuild at 52,000. However this leak is at the crankshaft level between the cyl block and oil pan. Probably where you would separate the case halves. Big job to contemplate. Is there a gasket at this joint, or just silicone? Is this repair condusive to a timing chain replacement? Monte

[TheCafeKid]

Done the top end rebuild at 52,000. However this leak is at the crankshaft level between the cyl block and oil pan. Probably where you would separate the case halves. Big job to contemplate. Is there a gasket at this joint, or just silicone? Is this repair condusive to a timing chain replacement? Monte

You can replace the timing chain without splitting the cases, however if the cases are where you are leaking from and youre SURE of it (sometimes a leak somewhere else can often look like its coming from an altogether different location. I had my cam chain tensioner gasket leak, and the oil actually flowed FORWARD, to make it look as if the base gasket was leaking.) and you'll need to split the cases to repair, you can replace the cam chain while your in there.

[rapidray]

You can split the cases & re-do the sealer on the case halves without pulling the top end apart. You only need to pull the clutch hub, 2 plates behind it that have flat phillips head countersunk screws, the stator cover, & all the bolts holding the 2 case halves together. Also, don't listen to anyone that tells you it's ok to replace the cam chain without splitting the cases. It is a continuous chain with NO master link. To do it ANY other way is to ask for disaster! Ray.

[Guest]

Is there a gasket at this joint, or just silicone?

silicone only

[TheCafeKid]

You can split the cases & re-do the sealer on the case halves without pulling the top end apart. You only need to pull the clutch hub, 2 plates behind it that have flat phillips head countersunk screws, the stator cover, & all the bolts holding the 2 case halves together. Also, don't listen to anyone that tells you it's ok to replace the cam chain without splitting the cases. It is a continuous chain with NO master link. To do it ANY other way is to ask for disaster! Ray.

Hrmmm...Im not going to argue with that, he has more experience than *I* do, but lets put it this way. My dad raced two and four stroke dirt bikes for years, stripped and built them himself, and on many occasions replaced chains without splitting the cases and never had one give out on him, BUT, those werent GSs...sooo..

[bwringer]

silicone only

Actually, you need a special case sealing goo, which is definitely NOT RTV silicone.

ThreeBond 1194 is excellent:

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=178

If there is any RTV silicone in your garage, just go out there and throw it away now -- it does not belong anywhere near your GS.

[Guest]

i stand corrected

Actually, you need a special case sealing goo, which is definitely NOT RTV silicone.

when i said silicone, i may have used an inappropriate jargon term

but any automotive "high temperature semi-drying liquid gasket material" is going to do just fine
especially if it reads "oem approved" and "suitable for aluminium engines"

[bwringer]

when i said silicone, i may have used an inappropriate jargon term

but any "high temperature semi-drying liquid gasket material" is going to do just fine
especially if it reads "oem approved" and "suitable for aluminium engines"

Well, I knew that you knew what the correct goo was, but I didn't want anyone else to read this and run out to the corner MegaAutoShoppe for a tube of RTV in their favorite color. You know?

[monte]

thanks for all the input. I will ride out the summer with the minor leak, and know what my winter project will be. Monte

[76FJ55]

Hrmmm...Im not going to argue with that, he has more experience than *I* do, but lets put it this way. My dad raced two and four stroke dirt bikes for years, stripped and built them himself, and on many occasions replaced chains without splitting the cases and never had one give out on him, BUT, those werent GSs...sooo..

You're most likely correct in what your dad did, but the difference is that those dirt bikes where singles. With a single the cam chain can be slipped off the end of the crank and replaced. This is the same with some inlines (GPZ900 and I'm sure others) as they have the cam chain mounted at one end of the crank, but the GS's have the cam chain between the center cylinders and the only way to get it off is to have the crank out if the crank case halves.

[TheCafeKid]

You're most likely correct in what your dad did, but the difference is that those dirt bikes where singles. With a single the cam chain can be slipped off the end of the crank and replaced. This is the same with some inlines (GPZ900 and I'm sure others) as they have the cam chain mounted at one end of the crank, but the GS's have the cam chain between the center cylinders and the only way to get it off is to have the crank out if the crank case halves.

They werent all singles bro, but they werent four bangers either. The fact remains that he used a tool to break the chain, then replaced it with a new one and a rivet. This may not be advised for a high torque motor like the GSs, but alls im sayin is ive seen it done on other bikes with NO ill effects.