'83 1100E Leak Proof Moly Fork Seals?

[Indy3]

Has anyone tried the Leak Proof Moly Fork Seals from the Dennis Kirk Catalog? I have an '83 1100E with the air forks and anti-dive.

I plan on installing the Progressive Springs so I don't need to use the air system.

Just wondering if anyone has opinions on that particular brand or what you have used and recommend?

This is my first attempt at this repair, and I'm looking to do it right the first time.

Thank you.

[rapidray]

I've used Leak Proof & stock Suzuki & had great results with both. I've never had an issue with either. Ray.

[Guest]

Do a good visual inspection of the tubes. If there are any gouges or scratches then its best to fix them before reassembly or your doing work for nothing.

I'm lucky enough to have a good friend with a lathe. I mount mine up in the lathe and spin it at high rpm and use fine emery cloth and oil to smooth them out. You could do it by hand it will just take longer.

[Smokinapankake]

I like the Leak-Proofs (is anything ever really leak proof?) because if, like me, you don't have a seal installation tool, you can still replace the seals. They just slide in by hand but be sure you have them right side up, otherwise they will most definitely leak. Something to do with the shape of the seal...

[doug g]

I have heard nothing but bad things aout Leak Proof seals. Go with oem. I have tried Bikemaster with good results but I prefer OEM.

[bonanzadave]

I have tried seals from BB and dealer OEM seals and my left side still leaks. Guess I gotta do a teardown and a closer inspection next spring.

[Suzuki mad]

Only ever used genuine Suzuki seals.

Suzuki mad

[bwringer]

I've used the Leak Proof Pro Moly kits on several bikes (at least six or seven bikes) in the last two or three years, and been very happy. As noted above, you don't pound them in -- you just work them in with your fingers.

They're also pretty tough -- I know for a fact at least one of the bikes I worked on had some pitting on the fork tubes, but it still sealed just fine.




Doug, can you give more details about how/when/where you or someone you know had trouble with the Leak Proof seals? Were they using the Leak Proof Pro Moly seals or lower end line of seals? I think Leak Proof might have had a poor reputation a couple of years ago, but as far as I can tell, the newer Pro Moly seals are pretty good stuff.

[doug g]

This was many years ago. Must have been at least 7-8 years min. I have since used just OEM and Bikemaster seals with no issues. The issue with the seals was that after installation they would start leaking less than 3 or 4 months later. Pull them out and put in OEM and no issues at all.

[rapidray]

I have NEVER had Leak Proof seals leak after installation within the first 2 years. After 6 months to a year it's not warranteed anyway. Ray.

[dirtyfingers]

Leak Proofs Leak. I've never had a set that didn't. Use OEM type with the spring inside. I've done many fork seal replacements and those are the highest quality. Always wrap electrical tape around the bushing groove when installing seals. These sharp edges will cut the seal and make them leak right away. Make sure to wet sand your fork tubes with some 600 grit, take down any bumps. Sand in a circumfrencial fashion. No up and down. If the chrome is pitted bad you can expect the leaking to return shortly.

[Guest]

I have NEVER had Leak Proof seals leak after installation within the first 2 years. After 6 months to a year it's not warranteed anyway. Ray.

+1...I've had them in for a few years now, without any issues. Mine are the basic Leak Proofs....when I was researching them, they were supposedly more reliable than the newer moly type, which had mixed reviews. Both are actually guaranteed not to leak for the life of the bike (FWIW).
I think running with 0 psi in the forks helps prolong the life of the seals too...went through 2 OEM seals with the stock springs and air, before good results with Progressive springs, Leak Proofs, and no air pressure.
Tony.

[rapidray]

Leak Proofs Leak. I've never had a set that didn't. Use OEM type with the spring inside. I've done many fork seal replacements and those are the highest quality. Always wrap electrical tape around the bushing groove when installing seals. These sharp edges will cut the seal and make them leak right away. Make sure to wet sand your fork tubes with some 600 grit, take down any bumps. Sand in a circumfrencial fashion. No up and down. If the chrome is pitted bad you can expect the leaking to return shortly.

Maybe you're doing it wrong. Ray.

[Guest]

Leak Proofs Leak. I've never had a set that didn't. Use OEM type with the spring inside. I've done many fork seal replacements and those are the highest quality. Always wrap electrical tape around the bushing groove when installing seals. These sharp edges will cut the seal and make them leak right away. Make sure to wet sand your fork tubes with some 600 grit, take down any bumps. Sand in a circumfrencial fashion. No up and down. If the chrome is pitted bad you can expect the leaking to return shortly.

Did you wash your hands before installing?

[paco13]

I have replaced many fork seals and many diff. bikes. I use leak proof pro-moly and haven't had any probs. even on forks with minor pitting (emery down the rough edges first) and follow instructions concerning washer placement. They are a floating seal.
Example;
I had one guy insist I use factory Honda seals on his CB, They leaked after two rides. He had someone else replace them again with Honda, they leaked. I convinced him to let me install leak proof's. 4 Years later, they still aren't leaking.