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Ferodo Platinum Brake Pads Bed in Procedure

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    Ferodo Platinum Brake Pads Bed in Procedure

    I bought these pads a year ago from vintage brake, then I lost the bed in procedure sheet they sent. Does anyone happen to know what that procedure is?


    Also, Since the bike's been sitting out, the rotors have some residual rust, even though I went over it with industrial steel wool to remove it. Does this pose an issue with new pads?

    #2
    not sure, I would guess you just run the bike normally for about a 100 miles or so before doing any hard braking.

    Keep your stock pads on for now and take the bike for few runs with hard brakeing to knock the rust off then have at them with a scotch brite pad to clean the disks up a bit more.
    78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
    82 Kat 1000 Project
    05 CRF450x
    10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike

    P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.

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      #3
      The procedures I've googled usually go like:

      Brake normally from 10 mph - repeat 5 times

      Brake normally from 30 mph, allow 30 secs of cooling - repeat 5 times

      Brake normally from 50 mph, allow 30 secs of cooling - repeat 5 times

      Avoid max effort for 100 miles if possible, job done.


      But I'd try googling the specific procedure or shooting them an email to be sure.

      Comment


        #4
        That sounds about right... I wouldn't worry too much, just don't do too much extreme braking for the first 100miles if you can avoid it.

        Rust won't be an issue - it will make the brakes extra sharp though till the pads clean it off.

        Dan
        1980 GS1000G - Sold
        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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          #5
          Thank you all! The rust isn't bad at all... But I think I may go over it with a sponge and some phosphoric acid just to get it all off. then I'll use the scotch again and some rubbing alcohol.

          I'll certainly start working the steps Ola put down, and I should be able to take it easy on it for the first 100 miles excepting any emergencies.

          Comment


            #6
            Put them on and ride.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #7
              Nah... For $100, I'll do it right :P

              Comment


                #8
                Not sure about those pads you have, but most need to be used hard to get the proper molecular transfer to take place.
                Read up on it before you do anything.
                I wouldn't worry about the rust, it will soon be gone.


                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment


                  #9
                  J c

                  Call vintage brake for the directions. The rotors need to be very clean and I think requires some aggresive breaking to get them broken in.

                  Pos

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                    #10
                    I believe the EBC website has a link to some bedding procedures...I recall that one big no-no was not to let the bike come to a complete stop with the pads still clamped tight, while you're doing the multiple-stops. Something about high heat material transfer initially, that will make the brakes feel like they're pulsating.
                    Hugh

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