Ferodo Platinum Brake Pads Bed in Procedure

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  • J_C

    #1

    Ferodo Platinum Brake Pads Bed in Procedure

    I bought these pads a year ago from vintage brake, then I lost the bed in procedure sheet they sent. Does anyone happen to know what that procedure is?


    Also, Since the bike's been sitting out, the rotors have some residual rust, even though I went over it with industrial steel wool to remove it. Does this pose an issue with new pads?
  • first timer
    Forum Sage
    • Aug 2002
    • 3429
    • Tucson, Arizona

    #2
    not sure, I would guess you just run the bike normally for about a 100 miles or so before doing any hard braking.

    Keep your stock pads on for now and take the bike for few runs with hard brakeing to knock the rust off then have at them with a scotch brite pad to clean the disks up a bit more.
    78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project, 82 Kat 1000, 10 990 ADV-R, Some dirt bikes

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    • Ola

      #3
      The procedures I've googled usually go like:

      Brake normally from 10 mph - repeat 5 times

      Brake normally from 30 mph, allow 30 secs of cooling - repeat 5 times

      Brake normally from 50 mph, allow 30 secs of cooling - repeat 5 times

      Avoid max effort for 100 miles if possible, job done.


      But I'd try googling the specific procedure or shooting them an email to be sure.

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      • salty_monk
        Forum LongTimer
        GSResource Superstar
        Past Site Supporter
        Super Site Supporter
        • Oct 2006
        • 14001
        • London, UK to Redondo Beach, California

        #4
        That sounds about right... I wouldn't worry too much, just don't do too much extreme braking for the first 100miles if you can avoid it.

        Rust won't be an issue - it will make the brakes extra sharp though till the pads clean it off.

        Dan
        1980 GS1000G - Sold
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        • J_C

          #5
          Thank you all! The rust isn't bad at all... But I think I may go over it with a sponge and some phosphoric acid just to get it all off. then I'll use the scotch again and some rubbing alcohol.

          I'll certainly start working the steps Ola put down, and I should be able to take it easy on it for the first 100 miles excepting any emergencies.

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          • Guest

            #6
            Put them on and ride.

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            • J_C

              #7
              Nah... For $100, I'll do it right :P

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              • tkent02
                Forum LongTimer
                Past Site Supporter
                • Jan 2006
                • 35571
                • Near South Park

                #8
                Not sure about those pads you have, but most need to be used hard to get the proper molecular transfer to take place.
                Read up on it before you do anything.
                I wouldn't worry about the rust, it will soon be gone.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

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                • posplayr
                  Forum LongTimer
                  GSResource Superstar
                  Past Site Supporter
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 23673
                  • Tucson Az

                  #9
                  J c

                  Call vintage brake for the directions. The rotors need to be very clean and I think requires some aggresive breaking to get them broken in.

                  Pos

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                  • hp1000s

                    #10
                    I believe the EBC website has a link to some bedding procedures...I recall that one big no-no was not to let the bike come to a complete stop with the pads still clamped tight, while you're doing the multiple-stops. Something about high heat material transfer initially, that will make the brakes feel like they're pulsating.
                    Hugh

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