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Jetting a 1980 1000G for JUST a Pipe...

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    Jetting a 1980 1000G for JUST a Pipe...

    So everyone, I need some new mufflers for my bike. I had been looking at replacing them with just some stock replacements, but I really like the idea of going with the 4-1.

    I had been hesitant to go with the 4-1 because I have pipe/pods on another bike and I am constantly messing with the jetting to get it right. But today it was mentioned to me by Brian that with only the pipe it probably wouldn't require as much tuning to get it running right. It hadn't really dawned on me that the pods were probably the main culprit in my jetting issues on my other bike, but it makes quite a bit of sense.

    So my question is this. If I were to go with a Vance and Hines 4-1 pipe on the 1000g, but leave the stock airbox and stock filter in place, how much of an increase in fuel should I expect to use?? Would I be looking at going up only about one jet size and maybe raising the needles just a little?? Or would a pipe require a bigger increase than just that??

    Any advice on WHERE to start with this would be great. I've had good luck with jet kits in the past, but if I'm only going to do the pipe I'm going to TRY to get away with only ordering the parts that I need...instead of the whole kit.

    Thanks!
    Jeff

    #2
    I'd start with a 125 main jet.
    Raise the needle 1 notch by replacing the needle plastic spacer with washers and then removing 2 of them
    Richen the idle mixture screws.
    Sync
    You should be good to go.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
      I'd start with a 125 main jet.
      Raise the needle 1 notch by replacing the needle plastic spacer with washers and then removing 2 of them
      Richen the idle mixture screws.
      Sync
      You should be good to go.

      Just out of curiousity, because I haven't ripped the carbs apart yet...

      But do you happen to know what the stock jet size is on the bike?? I was just looking at Dynojet's site, and the kit for the 1000g comes with some really wonky sized jets. I'm guessing it's because the kit is actually designed for both the 1000 AND the 1100...but they list the jet sizes as 114, 118, 165, and 170...

      ...oh wait though...I just remembered this...doesn't Dynojet use wonky numbering systems for their jet kits?? Some numbers don't match up to what the "stock" sizes would be...right??

      Comment


        #4
        Dynojet's numbers and Mikuni's numbers are different.
        The stock main for your carbs is 115 Pilot 40
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          Awesome.

          Thanks Chef. Looks like I'm going to start looking for some good prices on a 4-1 exhaust. The two stock mufflers both have small holes in them...oddly enough right where the end of the hard bags hung over them. I think water must've dripped right down from the bags onto the spot, but who knows.

          One last question...do these bikes generally like a bit richer jetting regardless of mods?? I know on the other bikes I've done carb work on, they benefited from richer fuel jetting even without any mods. I have read before that many times the bikes were jetted lean to get them past some EPA regulations, and that jetting them can help them run a bit smoother even without any mods.

          Comment


            #6
            Richer jetting is safer than lean, but correct jetting (tan plugs) gives best power, fuel economy, etc.

            With the factory setup, all these bikes really need is a bit richer on the idle mixture screw and possibly a slightly lower float height. I've never raised the needles on the GS850s I've cared for, but I understand it's a good idea with their bigger brothers.

            Curiously, the stock mains in the 1980+ GS850G/GL, GS1000G/GL and GS1100G/GL/GK are all 115.

            Going to 125 mains is sort of a big jump, but it will be a safe setting. From there, you might need to do some plug chops with your new pipe to determine if you might want to go to a 122.5 or 120. It also depends on the new pipe, of course.
            1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
            2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
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            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by bwringer View Post
              Richer jetting is safer than lean, but correct jetting (tan plugs) gives best power, fuel economy, etc.

              With the factory setup, all these bikes really need is a bit richer on the idle mixture screw and possibly a slightly lower float height. I've never raised the needles on the GS850s I've cared for, but I understand it's a good idea with their bigger brothers.

              Curiously, the stock mains in the 1980+ GS850G/GL, GS1000G/GL and GS1100G/GL/GK are all 115.

              Going to 125 mains is sort of a big jump, but it will be a safe setting. From there, you might need to do some plug chops with your new pipe to determine if you might want to go to a 122.5 or 120. It also depends on the new pipe, of course.

              Maybe I'll start with some 122.5s and go from there. They would probably still be rich enough to be considered safe.

              Before I do any of this, however, I need to find an exhuast.

              Comment


                #8
                I have used 122.5 with some success & that was using a K&N inbox filter. I am at sea level. No needle change required, a tweak on the pilot screws (I ran about 2.5 turns out I think). I think it also ran equally ok at 117.5 & 120 too.

                Kent has an 1100g 8 valve with a V&H, K&N inbox & Dynojet kit fitted. He ended up sticking with the stock 115 mains after trying 120's.

                I have a bunch of Mikuni & DJ jets to fit that bike from my own messing around... I would be willing to ship them to you to mess around with if you left me a decent deposit & refund most of it when you shipped me back what you didn't use if that would help you out.... Deposit would depend on how many sets I could russle up. Most of them have only been used to test on my 1000G so barely used.

                Dan
                1980 GS1000G - Sold
                1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

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