first time stator rewind WORKS GREAT!

[first timer]

Jim, I don't know how any of this magic electrical stuff works but if you get the diode part number will you give the diode trick a try on your bike?

[posplayr]

Jim, I don't know how any of this magic electrical stuff works but if you get the diode part number will you give the diode trick a try on your bike?

Ryan,
I have already sacraficed a GS1100ED head and 0.340" webcams to the GS charging gods, so I will think twice about testing any "fixes". The best technology for an R/R is the FH012AA.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...&postcount=133

I don't understand what is going on with Shawns diodes yet, but if he has a part number maybe we can figure it out. At this point my only guess is that he has added a diode drop in the stator diodes by revese biasing them to share the power from the charging system. They really need to be big else they will run very hot .

The only other possibility is he has a short in the stator to ground. but I wont go there.

[motocycle shawn]

humm

well this should fix it all.
today i went on a ride. and by the time i got back the battery was dead..
looked at the diodes and all 3 where cracked and blown!
guess this was not a good trick after all.
replaces the wires with out the diodes and its charging just the same.

any one know what and why?
the diodes say n4001

i did find a bad ground too!
but it was in the motor to battery ground

but with or without them i'm still charging at 14.7 at 5000 and starts every time. don't really mater any motor i got a big motor for it now and the stator is good in that motor..

1100's are the shxt!

[motocycle shawn]

Wow

thats a great link jim ... now i understand things better.

[reddirtrider]

Edit: Clarification; technically speaking all but the last sentence is correct. HOEVER: While the power is "shunted to ground", it is not shunted to the battery and it is entirely shunted inside of the R/R in order to return current to the stator. So while the words are correct they are inaccurate towards understanding what is actually happening.

If I'm not mistaken, the battery is tied to ground and the R/R is tied to ground. Therefore, in a properly working system they should be at very nearly equal potentials.

My mistake on the coils. I didn't check to see if they were Delta or Wye.

[posplayr]

Red,
That is correct except the R/R ground will be lower than the battery potential because return current is flowing back to the R/R. Regardless this has little to do with the issue that stator completes a circuit and flow from the stator must be matched by flow in return and the blocking diodes smoked to prove it.
Pos

[reddirtrider]

Red,
That is correct except the R/R ground will be lower than the battery potential because return current is flowing back to the R/R. Regardless this has little to do with the issue that stator completes a circuit and flow from the stator must be matched by flow in return and the blocking diodes smoked to prove it.
Pos

I already agreed to that.

I'll make some measurements on the bike when it's rebuilt. My guess is that the potential from the battery to the R/R is pretty darn low.

[posplayr]

In my suggested modification to the stator diagnosis page I specified less than 0.25V at 5000 RPM. Based on my prior measurements as well as others, this this is an achievable voltage.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=143019

[mixongw]

well this should fix it all.
today i went on a ride. and by the time i got back the battery was dead..
looked at the diodes and all 3 where cracked and blown!
guess this was not a good trick after all.
replaces the wires with out the diodes and its charging just the same.

any one know what and why?
the diodes say n4001

i did find a bad ground too!
but it was in the motor to battery ground

but with or without them i'm still charging at 14.7 at 5000 and starts every time. don't really mater any motor i got a big motor for it now and the stator is good in that motor..

1100's are the shxt!

There are two things that could have happened to your 1N4001 rectifiers. The ratings are 1.0 amp current (that's way too low) and 50 PIV (peak inverse voltage)(marginal).

[posplayr]

There are two things that could have happened to your 1N4001 rectifiers. The ratings are 1.0 amp current (that's way too low) and 50 PIV (peak inverse voltage)(marginal).

That and it was a misguided idea carried to fruition

[propflux01]

looked at the diodes and all 3 where cracked and blown!
guess this was not a good trick after all.
replaces the wires with out the diodes and its charging just the same.

any one know what and why?
the diodes say n4001

I would say they just werent rated high enough.

[propflux01]

Also, did you reuse your Little rubber grommet that seals the stator cover and lets the wire go through? Mine was shot, was lucky the new stator I just got in today had a new one on it. But i understand stators from Electrex do not come with them.

[propflux01]

anyone?????

[blo]

Just to put the diode issue into simple terms:
The "back blocking diodes" idea simply made a half-wave rectifier before the full wave rectifier in the R/R.
In this case you would see a correct charging voltage, but you would only be able to utilize half of the available power from the pm-generator.
Assuming the load at the R/R is pure ohmic, you would have to flow double the current in the working set of diodes - lucky for you, the "blocking" diodes was underrated and melted before the R/R blew.

thx
-blo

[posplayr]

Also, did you reuse your Little rubber grommet that seals the stator cover and lets the wire go through? Mine was shot, was lucky the new stator I just got in today had a new one on it. But i understand stators from Electrex do not come with them.

Oil can migrate out past that rubber grommet out past the o-ring on the starter shaft and leak out. Sealing that oil loss path can stop mysterious oil leaks. Be careful about getting RTV loose in the engine but apply liberally.