floats on my 80 gs1100

[Guest]

Ok guys I have the carbs off and apart. The guy I bought it from got the shaft when he paid over 200.00 to have the carbs done. they are nasty as hell , but to my question. How in the world can i get these float pins out? They seem like they are welded in there. Just dont want to go and break any posts off.

[TheCafeKid]

Ok guys I have the carbs off and apart. The guy I bought it from got the shaft when he paid over 200.00 to have the carbs done. they are nasty as hell , but to my question. How in the world can i get these float pins out? They seem like they are welded in there. Just dont want to go and break any posts off.

You can use a smallish centerpunch and a LIGHT hammer or something of the like to get it started, once you get it going it will come right out. Just needs a little persuasion to get it moving. Just be gentle.

[Guest]

Why cant they all be like the ones on the 450 lol. push them right out with your finger.

[Guest]

Ok ive tried to get them out. They arent budging. They look like small nails that have been put in there. If I cant get them out I'm going to have to resort to the cheap spray them out cleaning method. These things are the only thing holding me up from starting my first dip.

[blowerbike]

where is steve?
he can tell you.
i dont feel like typing

[Dogma]

GOTO Harbor Freight or similar and get a spring-loaded center punch. Support the post with the head end of the pin, and push the punch against the opposite end of the pin until it pops. That should drive it right out, unless some other evil has been done to it. For a few bucks, these come in awful handy.

You could tap a regular punch with a hammer, but I'd want another pair of steady hands to help. Be sure not to hit the post that does not have the head end of the pin.

"not Steve"

[Guest]

Those pins can be a real PITA... well worth your time & effort to remove them WITHOUT breaking the posts - even if it slows you down a day or two (better than trying to find a replacement carb body).

My method is a bit conservative, but I broke a post once & I'll NOT do that again:

1) Buy a small dia punch (just a little smaller dia than the pin) at Sears.

2) Support the "post with the pin head" against something that's rigid & won't move. I lay the post down on a block of aluminum with the pin head just sticking past the edge of the block so the pin head isn't blocked.

NOTE - the post with the pin head adjacent to it is the one the pin is pressed into - the other post (no head) is the end of the pin you want to use the punch on, as it's NOT pressed into that post hole...

3) Then I insert a small alum block that fits between the middle of the two posts - it's wedge-shaped & I push it between the posts until it makes contact with the insides of the two posts (not jammed).

NOTE - Once you have this set up like this, there is no way the posts can break off because they aren't "cantilevered" any more - they are now essentially just one solid block of metal.

4) Lightly tap the pin (not the post ) with the punch & the float pin will practically fall out.

Good luck,

Mike

[Nessism]

Those pins can be a real PITA... well worth your time & effort to remove them WITHOUT breaking the posts - even if it slows you down a day or two (better than trying to find a replacement carb body).

My method is a bit conservative, but I broke a post once & I'll NOT do that again:

1) Buy a small dia punch (just a little smaller dia than the pin) at Sears.

2) Support the post with the pin head against something that's rigid & won't move. I lay the post down on a block of aluminum with the pin head just sticking past the edge of the block so the pin head isn't blocked.

NOTE - the post with the pin head adjacent it is the one where the pin is pressed in - the other end (no head) is the end of the pin you want to use the punch on, as it's NOT pressed into that post hole...

3) Then I insert a small alum block that fits between the middle of the two posts - it's wedge-shaped & I push it between the posts until it makes contact with the insides of the two posts (not jammed).

NOTE - Once you have this set up like this, there is no way the posts can break off because they aren't "cantilevered" any more - they are now essentially just one solid block of metal.

4) Lightly tap the pin (not the post ) with the punch & the float pin will practically fall out.

Good luck,

Mike

Mike has this covered very nicely. Good job!

There is no need for the block between the posts since the only post that hold the pin is the one next to the nail head. Support the float post against something, or maybe use a small socket to support the post around the float pin. Support the post and then tap the pin out using a punch of some sort.

[Guest]

I spray them with PJ Blaster first and let them sit awhile. I've done LOTS of these.
I use a large wood screw with a pointy tip. With the carbs bodies split lay one body on its side and tap the float pin. It'll come. I've got some out of some REALLY nasty carbs.

[rustybronco]

You can take a propane torch and use the side of the flame to heat the post. it will loosen up the varnish between the pin and post, then you can continue with the pb blaster soak.

just make sure to aim the flame away from the float.

[Guest]

If you melt a float I have a bucket of them.

[Guest]

Mike has this covered very nicely. Good job!

Thanks Ed, I learned most of that from you...

There is no need for the block between the posts since the only post that hold the pin is the one next to the nail head

Yeah, I know, but with my luck that end of the pin will be "glued" in there enough to take the post with it when I tap it...

That's the "conservative" portion of my method, although it's not really necessary.

[Guest]

Wow thanks everyone for all the tips. Took dogmas advice and went to harbor freight and got me a spring loaded punch and they were out in 2 minutes. now time to start soaking them.