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floats on my 80 gs1100

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    floats on my 80 gs1100

    Ok guys I have the carbs off and apart. The guy I bought it from got the shaft when he paid over 200.00 to have the carbs done. they are nasty as hell , but to my question. How in the world can i get these float pins out? They seem like they are welded in there. Just dont want to go and break any posts off.
    I didnt do it I swear !!

    --------------------------
    http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture003.jpg 1982 GS850G

    http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...n1/Picture.jpg 1980 GS1100L

    #2
    Originally posted by kparkfan View Post
    Ok guys I have the carbs off and apart. The guy I bought it from got the shaft when he paid over 200.00 to have the carbs done. they are nasty as hell , but to my question. How in the world can i get these float pins out? They seem like they are welded in there. Just dont want to go and break any posts off.
    You can use a smallish centerpunch and a LIGHT hammer or something of the like to get it started, once you get it going it will come right out. Just needs a little persuasion to get it moving. Just be gentle.

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      #3
      Why cant they all be like the ones on the 450 lol. push them right out with your finger.
      I didnt do it I swear !!

      --------------------------
      http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture003.jpg 1982 GS850G

      http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...n1/Picture.jpg 1980 GS1100L

      Comment


        #4
        Ok ive tried to get them out. They arent budging. They look like small nails that have been put in there. If I cant get them out I'm going to have to resort to the cheap spray them out cleaning method. These things are the only thing holding me up from starting my first dip.
        I didnt do it I swear !!

        --------------------------
        http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture003.jpg 1982 GS850G

        http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...n1/Picture.jpg 1980 GS1100L

        Comment


          #5
          where is steve?
          he can tell you.
          i dont feel like typing

          Comment


            #6
            GOTO Harbor Freight or similar and get a spring-loaded center punch. Support the post with the head end of the pin, and push the punch against the opposite end of the pin until it pops. That should drive it right out, unless some other evil has been done to it. For a few bucks, these come in awful handy.

            You could tap a regular punch with a hammer, but I'd want another pair of steady hands to help. Be sure not to hit the post that does not have the head end of the pin.

            "not Steve"
            Dogma
            --
            O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David

            Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan

            --
            '80 GS850 GLT
            '80 GS1000 GT
            '01 ZRX1200R

            How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex

            Comment


              #7
              Those pins can be a real PITA... well worth your time & effort to remove them WITHOUT breaking the posts - even if it slows you down a day or two (better than trying to find a replacement carb body).

              My method is a bit conservative, but I broke a post once & I'll NOT do that again:

              1) Buy a small dia punch (just a little smaller dia than the pin) at Sears.

              2) Support the "post with the pin head" against something that's rigid & won't move. I lay the post down on a block of aluminum with the pin head just sticking past the edge of the block so the pin head isn't blocked.
              NOTE - the post with the pin head adjacent to it is the one the pin is pressed into - the other post (no head) is the end of the pin you want to use the punch on, as it's NOT pressed into that post hole...
              3) Then I insert a small alum block that fits between the middle of the two posts - it's wedge-shaped & I push it between the posts until it makes contact with the insides of the two posts (not jammed).
              NOTE - Once you have this set up like this, there is no way the posts can break off because they aren't "cantilevered" any more - they are now essentially just one solid block of metal.
              4) Lightly tap the pin (not the post ) with the punch & the float pin will practically fall out.

              Good luck,

              Mike
              Last edited by hikermikem; 07-21-2009, 07:57 AM.
              '85 GS550L - SOLD
              '85 GS550E - SOLD
              '82 GS650GL - SOLD
              '81 GS750L - SOLD
              '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
              '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
              '82 GS1100G - SOLD
              '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by hikermikem View Post
                Those pins can be a real PITA... well worth your time & effort to remove them WITHOUT breaking the posts - even if it slows you down a day or two (better than trying to find a replacement carb body).

                My method is a bit conservative, but I broke a post once & I'll NOT do that again:

                1) Buy a small dia punch (just a little smaller dia than the pin) at Sears.

                2) Support the post with the pin head against something that's rigid & won't move. I lay the post down on a block of aluminum with the pin head just sticking past the edge of the block so the pin head isn't blocked.
                NOTE - the post with the pin head adjacent it is the one where the pin is pressed in - the other end (no head) is the end of the pin you want to use the punch on, as it's NOT pressed into that post hole...
                3) Then I insert a small alum block that fits between the middle of the two posts - it's wedge-shaped & I push it between the posts until it makes contact with the insides of the two posts (not jammed).
                NOTE - Once you have this set up like this, there is no way the posts can break off because they aren't "cantilevered" any more - they are now essentially just one solid block of metal.
                4) Lightly tap the pin (not the post ) with the punch & the float pin will practically fall out.

                Good luck,

                Mike
                Mike has this covered very nicely. Good job!

                There is no need for the block between the posts since the only post that hold the pin is the one next to the nail head. Support the float post against something, or maybe use a small socket to support the post around the float pin. Support the post and then tap the pin out using a punch of some sort.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #9
                  I spray them with PJ Blaster first and let them sit awhile. I've done LOTS of these.
                  I use a large wood screw with a pointy tip. With the carbs bodies split lay one body on its side and tap the float pin. It'll come. I've got some out of some REALLY nasty carbs.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You can take a propane torch and use the side of the flame to heat the post. it will loosen up the varnish between the pin and post, then you can continue with the pb blaster soak.

                    just make sure to aim the flame away from the float.
                    De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If you melt a float I have a bucket of them.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        Mike has this covered very nicely. Good job!
                        Thanks Ed, I learned most of that from you...


                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        There is no need for the block between the posts since the only post that hold the pin is the one next to the nail head
                        Yeah, I know, but with my luck that end of the pin will be "glued" in there enough to take the post with it when I tap it...

                        That's the "conservative" portion of my method, although it's not really necessary.
                        Last edited by hikermikem; 07-21-2009, 06:20 PM.
                        '85 GS550L - SOLD
                        '85 GS550E - SOLD
                        '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                        '81 GS750L - SOLD
                        '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                        '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                        '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                        '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Wow thanks everyone for all the tips. Took dogmas advice and went to harbor freight and got me a spring loaded punch and they were out in 2 minutes. now time to start soaking them.
                          I didnt do it I swear !!

                          --------------------------
                          http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture003.jpg 1982 GS850G

                          http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...n1/Picture.jpg 1980 GS1100L

                          Comment

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