T# Mark for valve adjustment

[blowerbike]

You peeked!
I got rid of that leaky bastage.

you could have center punched the front and rear on the head and valve cover in the cam chain area..
helps hold the gasket from pushing out anyways.

[Steve]

Tompasio,

Steve is answering your question, while the others are talking to each other

Yeah, I figured somebody ought to do that.

.

[TheCafeKid]

you could have center punched the front and rear on the head and valve cover in the cam chain area..
helps hold the gasket from pushing out anyways.

why not just drill and tap some allen head bolts into it? Or just WELD the cover to the head. Screw it. its a 16v it doesnt need adjusted anyways.

[blowerbike]

why not just drill and tap some allen head bolts into it? Or just WELD the cover to the head. Screw it. its a 16v it doesnt need adjusted anyways.

center punch so much easier and can be done on bike to help prevent 20 bolt VC leakage.
you have much to learn grasshopper

[TheCafeKid]

center punch so much easier and can be done on bike to help prevent 20 bolt VC leakage.
you have much to learn grasshopper

uhhh...dude. Who in F's sake would WELD a valve cover to a head???? Its called sarcasm. Look it up. And, I was aware of the punch fix for the 20 bolt head. IMO its a waste of time, when there are thousands of 24 bolt heads available on ebay every month.

[blowerbike]

uhhh...dude. Who in F's sake would WELD a valve cover to a head???? Its called sarcasm. Look it up. And, I was aware of the punch fix for the 20 bolt head. IMO its a waste of time, when there are thousands of 24 bolt heads available on ebay every month.

ohhh grasshopper,
carefull of high blood preasure...make your eyes pop out of socket

[mistertoadie]

Of course if it's an eltronic ignition bike you wont see those nasty old points in Steve's pic,but the marks are the same. looking through the sight hole there is a stationary mark above the timing plate that will line up with the marks on the plate. There is a 1-4 T mark and a 2-3 T mark.

[Tompasio]

My Bike is the 16 Valve.T-Mark on signalplate but what to align with,If i want TDC?

[bwringer]

Depends on what motor youre talking about. The 8valvers dont have notches that you line up...the 16's do...

Yes, the 8V engines do indeed have the notches in the camshafts.

Here's my "How the &^%$# do I find TDC?" page:

http://bwringer.com/gs/tdc.html

[TheCafeKid]

Yes, the 8V engines do indeed have the notches in the camshafts.

Here's my "How the &^%$# do I find TDC?" page:
http://bwringer.com/gs/tdc.html

Well...I'll be.... Never noticed em before, but then again, i never have looked for em before when installing, or doing valve adjustment..nothing in the manual about them being part of proceedure that I saw. Only the cam timing marks on the sprockets, and then the timing plate, etc. Here's an interested question then...WHICH GSs had the later model electronic ignition? My 83 even has the early model, if I remember right. Id have to pull the cover off again and look, but ive never moved the cams or cam timing so it was never something that id looked that closely at on that bike. The 82 1100G i had had the early mech advance, and so does my 80 1000G

[Guest]

I thought all 82-83 shafty bikes had the advance curve built in the igniter.
The sixteen valve 1100s all used the mechanical advance. The 1150 used the electronic curve.

[TheCafeKid]

I thought all 82-83 shafty bikes had the advance curve built in the igniter.
The sixteen valve 1100s all used the mechanical advance. The 1150 used the electronic curve.

I could swear my 1100G had the old style, but I actually only had it long enough to adjust the valves once, so I may be misremembering. But I dont think ive ever seen the "new" one in person. Thanks for the heads up on the 1100s, like i said, i was pretty darn sure it was mechanical but then you got my neurosis going, and starting to wonder if someone had screwed the timing up and had it lined with the wrong mark... Man I worry too much..

[mistertoadie]

The clymer manual outlines the T mark procedure but also makes reference to the notches in the camshafts.

[bwringer]

The marks under the timing cover are what you use to set TDC, but when you're reassembling the top end, the notches in the camshafts are a nice double-check to make sure you're not off by a tooth. If they're still facing each other when everything is tightened down, ya done good.

FWIW, Suzuki mixed things up quite a bit between mechanical and electronic advance. For example, the 82-83 GS850G used the electronic advance (solid rotor) while the 82 GS850GL used the mechanical advancer and the 83 GL got the electronic. Goofy.