Rear Axle Installation and Rear Wheel

[Rocketman]

Just pulled front and rear wheels off my '82 GS850L in anticipation of new LaserTecs due to arrive tomorrow. Three quick questions:

(1) As seen below, the rear axle has a 7/8" long tapered notch/groove on one side. Does it matter where this notch/groove is positioned when its reinstalled? The rear brake caliper hose clamp/pinch bolt seems to be all that tightens around this end of the axle, but I can't see any point and/or function for this notch/groove.

(2) I haven't had the rear wheel off in about 14 years. Does the inside of the wheel look OK? There's a tiny little bit of grease outside of the bearing, but none permeating outside onto the final drive and no evidence of leaks anywhere and otherwise dry as a bone everywhere.

(3) Any lubrication of front or rear axles, or anything else when I re-assemble?

Thanks a lot guys.

[bwringer]

Those splines are likely badly damaged -- you MUST use a special 60% molybdenum paste on these, and it looks like they only had very small amounts of plain brown grease.

Search the forum for "spline" to learn more. You really need to get up to speed on this issue and learn how to inspect your spline unit. You can't just look at it while installed unless you know exactly what to look for. There have been some excellent photos and info posted recently, so just search and you'll find them.

The axle gets a light coating of plain waterproof grease to keep it from sticking. The notch is supposed to align with the split at the rear of the swingarm, but it's not critical.

[twr1776]

1 - The notch aligns with the opening in the pinch bolt for a screwdriver so the axle does not spin when tightening the nut on the shaft side.

2 - Pull the hub completely out for a full inspection, it might look OK from the outside but all the wear is on the inside of the spline. Use the Moly 60 Honda spline lube on it when you re-install.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=149097

3 - I use a light coating of hi temp grease on the axle shaft so it slides through easier.

[Rocketman]

As always, I appreciate your advice and knowledge. I will look for Honda Moly 60 to grease the rear splines, and will also grease the axles. I just don't understand how you can say the splines are probably badly damaged from these photos. I've seen photos of damaged ones, and mine appear to really be fine. There's no unnecessary movement in the wheel also. Here's a photo of the splines on the final drive. They look great too.

[Rocketman]

Saw your post after I posted my 2nd one. Now I understand and will check it out. Thanks a million. I didn't mention mileage is 15,140. Pretty good chance the splines are OK. But I'll check.

[twr1776]

The spline on the shaft side is harder material than the one on the wheel and usually does not go bad. The wheel side is the "sacrificial" side. I agree with Brian the wheel side looks a bit "dry" and will have all the wear if you have any. See the link I posted for an outside vs inside view. It is hard to see unless you pull the hub all the way out.

[Rocketman]

Alrighty now. I just pulled the splines out and here are some photos for your viewing pleasure. Please tell me I'm right and they look OK. Just a cleaning, a Honda Molying, and re-install, right? And that radial spray design is normal....C'mon guys, make my Sunday....

[Rocketman]

All cleaned up. Last pics for today. Do the teeth look OK to you?

[Steve]

Can't tell if you have the "black" or the "silver" splines, either is good.

Your splines look great.

Yes, the radial spray pattern is normal ...

IF YOU USE THE WRONG GREASE.


Using regular wheel bearing grease will cause dripping like that. It won't handle the heat that is there, and is not made for the loads that are encountered there. The Honda Moly 60 is a thick paste that does not have to go on very thick to do its job. Just enough to coat the parts will do just fine. The lube comes in a small tube that fits the mini-cartrige grease guns, but don't worry about putting it in a gun. Just pop the cap and dip your finger, then smear it on. BEWARE, though, it is very hard to get off clothing, so be careful. That grease should be checked/cleaned/refreshed every time you change your rear tire. It will likely look just like it does when you put it on, but change it anyway. Besides, you should really clean it off the splines to check the condition of the splines. That little tube of lube will cost $10-12, but should last a lifetime, unless you have 5 shaft-drive bikes and ride as much as I do.

[bwringer]

Looks like you have the later silver splines (good) instead of the 82-83 gold splines. It's very hard to tell the color difference in photos, but it looks like there's little to no wear on yours.

Put some moly paste on each tooth and ride!

[Rocketman]

Thanks for the good new guys. On a mission to find Honda Moly today, new tires tomorrow, and on the road again. Life is good!

[duaneage]

You got lucky, your bike came with the harder splines before some knucklehead at Suzuki switched to the softer metal. I'm hoarding two earlier splines that seem to last 3 times as long as the softer gold colored ones.

[Rocketman]

OK. I located a tube of Honda Moly 60 for $11.00. Looks grayish black. Greased splines using a small paint brush, just to put an even, light coat, not gooped on, and re-installed into the rear wheel. Had to coax it in most of the way, then installed the three hold down plates, with a little more Moly 60 under the gold color plates, then evenly coaxed the assembly in until it bottomed out, and re-tightened everything. Wheels have been delivered to the dealer to have the new tires mounted and balanced. $47.50 plus tax complete. Nice deal! Will Honda Moly the splines coming out of the final drive before re-mounted rear wheel. Should I also put some of this stuff on the face of the rear wheel bearing, or does this not contact any surfaces inside the final drive? It doesn't look like it does, but you guys haven't been wrong yet. Also, for the front and rear axles, Honda Moly or Hi temp axle grease? I have some Permatex Bronze Hi Temp stuff I mixed with BMW MicroLube, I used to lube the transmission output shaft splines and final drive input shaft splines on my BMW. Maybe its OK to use the same stuff. I also have some regular axle grease in a tube (it looks bluish) I use on my lawnmower wheels. That OK too?

[twr1776]

Did you put any blue loc-tite on the six mounting screws for the hold down plates? Even with the bent tabs they can work loose unless you use the Loc-tite.

I also use a light coating of the Moly on the inner hub on the shaft side output spline although I am not sure you have to. I also clean the axle with PB blaster, wipe off, and then use another light coating of red high temp bearing grease on the axles on the flat area only to ease in assembly.

[bwringer]

You have a newer type silver spline unit, so someone may have replaced it already. They switched over sometime in the mid-'80s. The older '79-'81 types are black.

You can use a thin coat of any sort of grease on the axles -- it's just to keep them from corroding and sticking to the bearing races. The waterproof stuff is best -- it's usually colorful, so it sounds like the blue grease you mentioned should be fine. I've also seen red and green.

Don't put the moly paste anywhere else besides the wheel spline, including the bearing.

+1000 on what Tim said about using blue Loctite on the hub retainer bolts.

The Honda moly paste also is what the old BMW guys usually use on their shaft splines nowadays as well. In case you're wondering, GS Suzuki shafties don't have a similar sliding spline weakness. The shaft u-joint is in line with the swingarm pivot, so the spline at the rear doesn't slide back and forth. This arrangement also minimizes shaft jacking.