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Starter Clutch not ingaging on GS1100!!!

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    #16
    Suzuki GS 750 with similar problem

    When I crank the starter it sounds good but the engine does not turn. I took of the starter cover case and found that the alternator rotor and the gear on the crank shaft are turning like they should but the engine and other end of the crank shaft are not. I was able to take the bolt on the end of the crankshaft, which holds on the rotor/starter clutch assembly, simply by using a wrench and the resistance of the cylinders in the engine which I did not disassemble. It loosened really easily. Then I pulled gently on the rotor/starter clutch assembly with my hands and it popped right off. Inspecting the inside of the assembly and the end of crankshaft the mettle looks twisted on the surface like the assembly has been slipping around scaring both its insides and the shaft. I am wondering if I should just try and reinstall it and tighten the bolt down to spec and see if it works. Can I do this holding the other side of the crankshaft with a wrench? Should I try to smooth out the metal with sand paper or a file?
    I appreciate any advice from those of you who have done this before.
    I am guessing this happened when I did a lot of cranking trying to start the engine in the cold of the winter. I am wondering if there is not something else going on in the engine that caused enough resistance to make the assembly slip on the shaft. The engine seems to turn alright when I use a wrench on bolt on the other end of the shaft so I am hopping it is good. Still last time I road it the engine was skipping and firing intimately at high rpms and then shutting off. I was hoping it was just the cold or the carburetor but I may have a bigger problem with this being just a symptom but I will try and trouble shoot that after I get the starter spinning the engine again.

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      #17
      Any updates? I just got the 'spins' today!! (had starter clutch replaced 15 months ago)
      I'm down for fixing this meself.
      grrrrrrr

      Originally posted by jon View Post
      When I crank the starter it sounds good but the engine does not turn. I took of the starter cover case and found that the alternator rotor and the gear on the crank shaft are turning like they should but the engine and other end of the crank shaft are not. I was able to take the bolt on the end of the crankshaft, which holds on the rotor/starter clutch assembly, simply by using a wrench and the resistance of the cylinders in the engine which I did not disassemble. It loosened really easily. Then I pulled gently on the rotor/starter clutch assembly with my hands and it popped right off. Inspecting the inside of the assembly and the end of crankshaft the mettle looks twisted on the surface like the assembly has been slipping around scaring both its insides and the shaft. I am wondering if I should just try and reinstall it and tighten the bolt down to spec and see if it works. Can I do this holding the other side of the crankshaft with a wrench? Should I try to smooth out the metal with sand paper or a file?
      I appreciate any advice from those of you who have done this before.
      I am guessing this happened when I did a lot of cranking trying to start the engine in the cold of the winter. I am wondering if there is not something else going on in the engine that caused enough resistance to make the assembly slip on the shaft. The engine seems to turn alright when I use a wrench on bolt on the other end of the shaft so I am hopping it is good. Still last time I road it the engine was skipping and firing intimately at high rpms and then shutting off. I was hoping it was just the cold or the carburetor but I may have a bigger problem with this being just a symptom but I will try and trouble shoot that after I get the starter spinning the engine again.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by ptexotik View Post
        Any updates? I just got the 'spins' today!! (had starter clutch replaced 15 months ago)
        I'm down for fixing this meself.
        grrrrrrr
        try a little loctite, solved my problem completely.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by glenlloyd View Post
          try a little loctite, solved my problem completely.
          Gots me the 3-bolt starter clutch shear.
          Need to find out specific bolt UPGRADE specs.
          thanx for input & rgds

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by ptexotik View Post
            Gots me the 3-bolt starter clutch shear.
            Need to find out specific bolt UPGRADE specs.
            thanx for input & rgds

            upgrade to OEM

            Comment


              #21
              YES! just read the posts of Katman re OEM vs harder versions.
              I'll stick with OEM.
              cheers!

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by ptexotik View Post
                YES! just read the posts of Katman re OEM vs harder versions.
                I'll stick with OEM.
                cheers!
                I did RED loctite on bolts and tapered shaft

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                  I did RED loctite on bolts and tapered shaft
                  Also, try the Suzuki thread glue. I have the part # at my shop. I have had no problems. GSXR or GS. El G.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    im not trying to thread jack you bud i just have a quick question related to this matter...

                    i'm having the same problem as you, the starter will turn and turn but the engine wont even fire a single cylinder. the bike ran fine about a month ago untill i overheated it, then hard starting, now no starting or firing...

                    i was wondering if i could still bump start it with a burnt out starter clutch just to confirm its nothing else that is wrong.

                    im not wanting to ride around, just push it down my street and see if i can get it to idle...

                    Thanks!
                    ~Nate

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Sure! Be careful with it on choke and do it in third or fourth gear.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        stuck

                        Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                        I did RED loctite on bolts and tapered shaft
                        Ok, I can't get this biatch to budge just using standard socket wrench ..

                        1) this is regular thread? lefty loosey / righty tighty?

                        2) should I try some sort of cheater bar, (waiting for thread direction confirmation) or am I looking at incorporating heat??

                        (using the method of having someone engage rear brake while in 4th gear)

                        THANK YOU

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by ptexotik View Post
                          Ok, I can't get this biatch to budge just using standard socket wrench ..

                          1) this is regular thread? lefty loosey / righty tighty?

                          2) should I try some sort of cheater bar, (waiting for thread direction confirmation) or am I looking at incorporating heat??

                          (using the method of having someone engage rear brake while in 4th gear)

                          THANK YOU
                          Yes lefty-lucy.
                          You can try a breaker bar but you may need ain impact. I use a cheapo Harbor Freight electric impact.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment

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