Has anyone else ever stripped their oil pan threads?

[Anonymous]

I was changing the oil on my bike last night. My neighbor happened to have the right size sparkplug socket. So I put it on there and put a 12" Crescent wrench on it. (I had already bent a screwdriver trying to use the sparkplug socket included in the toolkit...)

Since I had that nice long torque arm, it turned without too much trouble. After about 1/2 to 3/4 turn, I realized it wasn't getting any looser, and that I was turning it the wrong damn direction. If you've ever done something like this, you know that sinking feeling.

Finally, I got the drain plug out and the threads in the plug are half-stripped, with a nice little sliver of aluminum from the oil pan in them. I did manage to get the oil changed and the plug back in, but if you've ever replaced a stripped fastner, you know how that goes. You get it in, but cannot get it tight. Once the resistance stops changing, you have to stop and hope that it's tight enough.

I thought that the thing to do is just get a new oil plug bolt and retap the oil pan. But I bet that damn thing is a metric thread, and that even if I could find the right tap, it will be damn expensive.

Does anyone have one that I could borrow, or have any suggestions?

(Rant: Couldn't they at least make the oil pan out of steel?)

Thanks for any responses.

Jeremy

[gremlin]

at most autopart stores you can get a selftaping oil plug. depending on witch one you striped. if its the small drain in the oil filter cover its not much of a problem. the one in the bottom of the motor i would get the right tap and plug. metric thread not much of a problem a sae thread can be used. the main problem will be, you will need a reguler wrinch in your tool kit.

[Anonymous]

we've had to use self-tapping oil pan plugs at the request of customers after they took their car to get it changed at brakemasters; the single, double and triple-over metric threads are tapered--- they have an X in the end of the plug, and they increase in diameter, until they make their larger thread size... I believe you can find them in metric sizes, but it's one of those things that might be difficult to find @ an autoparts store. We use sosmetal products, ordered in bulk. you might see if you can find something of this sort by going to lube shops or mechanics, and see if you could buy a plug from them

[jimcor]

I checked some earlier posts for you. SqDancer lynn sez: go to your auto parts store and ask for Motormite Part Number 65217. There ya go. that's the drain plug you want.

[scotty]

I was afraid of self tapping plugs for the oil pan because only a small part of the threads are in solid aluminum. about 70 percent of the threads are in a couple of protrusions which extend upward into the oil pan. there are 2 protrusions because the space between them allows for complete draining of the oil pan. I chose a helicoil and opted to change the oil more often. I felt my method was a compromise but i felt safer about not stripping it a second time. If the self tapping has worked for others then it is definitely better than the helicoil method as far as complete draining of the oil pan goes.

[pidgey]

The oil pan being alloy, it's all to easy to strip the threads.

Those three protruding bolts for the filter cover are also a pain in the ass.

Those suckers would strip real easy. Yeah it's a sinking feeling all right,

like when I cross threaded the sparkplug on #2 cylinder one time

[SqDancerLynn1]

I agree and the oil pan should be replaced or at the least removed and helicoiled. BUT if you are wanting to get back on the road the oversized plug is a very good option and should last for years. The secret is to turn it in and out like a tap to cut the new threads

[Anonymous]

Those three protruding bolts for the filter cover are also a pain in the ass.

Those suckers would strip real easy.

No kidding, anyone else have any idea as to how to fix that one??? not much room there to rethread those studs

[gremlin]

Those three protruding bolts for the filter cover are also a pain in the ass.

Those suckers would strip real easy.

No kidding, anyone else have any idea as to how to fix that one??? not much room there to rethread those studs

remove and install new studs. that is the fast and easy way to do it.

some times your lucky and the stud will just back out. by trying to get two nuts to lock together you can then back the stud out.

[Anonymous]

Update

Hi All and thanks for your ideas and help.

I wound up going with the next largest SAE size. It was a 5/8-18. I bought a hardened bolt and washer of this size at my local Ace Hardware. Then I went to Sears Hardware and bought a 5/8-18 tap and a 9/16 drill bit. Back to Ace to rent a right angle 1/2" drill, so that I could get it underneath the motorcycle and drill out the new size. I still had to put a bunch of 3/4" blocks of wood under the front tire to make enough room for that beast.

So I drilled it out and tapped the the thread. The shortest bolt I found in that size was too long, so I cut it off with a hacksaw. (that was a lot of damn work on a hardened bolt 5/8" in diameter...) The threads on the bolt didn't go all the way to the hex head, so I put two O-rings on: one between the hex head and the washer, and another between the washer and the oil pan. (to prevent all leakage paths.)

Anyway, the new "oil plug" is in there and working great now. (no leaks)

If anyone wants to borrow the tap, tap handle, and drill bit, let me know. I will rent them for $3. (the stuff was expensive, and if you stripped your oil pan, I don't think you will mind. Drill bit $13, tap - $12, tap handle $10) After it has been to a few people.

I think this method is the best, as there are proper threads and a proper bolt, though you will need to buy a 15/16" socket for your 1/2" drive ratchet to go along with everything else.

[bwringer]

One option I've been thinking about while my oil pan threads are still good is one of those quick oil change valves:

http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=QC

You can also find a similar product (maybe even the exact same manufacturer) at Wal*Mart for much less.

The one we'd want is listed for Suzuki: 14mm diameter X 1.5mm pitch.

[Anonymous]

Those three protruding bolts for the filter cover are also a pain in the ass.

Those suckers would strip real easy.

No kidding, anyone else have any idea as to how to fix that one??? not much room there to rethread those studs

remove and install new studs. that is the fast and easy way to do it.

some times your lucky and the stud will just back out. by trying to get two nuts to lock together you can then back the stud out.

where would i get the new studs from??? cant's seem to find them anywhere

[jimcor]

where would i get the new studs from??? cant's seem to find them anywhere

Try Lee's Suzuki in Harrodsburg, KY. 859-734-5150 if they don't have them in stock they'll order them for you. Very knowledgable about the GS line. Lots of stuff in stock.

[gremlin]

you should beable to get the studs at your local dealer or bone yard.

[bwringer]

I found new studs for my oil filter cover at my local Ace hardware store.

6mm thread, but I forget how long -- just bring in an old one and get new ones the same or slightly longer. I also got new nuts with nylon inserts so I know they won't come loose.

DoItBest hardware stores carry the studs and nuts, too. Or at least the one around here does.