Removing intake manifold screws to replace o-rings

**Dink** · 10-09-2004, 04:16 PM

Drill the heads off, and replace them with allen key screws.

Dink

**KEITH KRAUSE** · 10-09-2004, 04:18 PM

Re: Removing intake manifold screws to replace o-rings

Originally posted by OneStaple

Hey,

I'm currently trying to get off the intake manifolds between the engine and carbs so as to replace the o-rings, as I believe I have a leak there that is causing the rpms to jump around.

However, I can't seem to get the screws out easily. They're all in there fairly tight. I applied some liquid wrench. The two outermost ones can be taken out with an impact screw driver, but the impact screw driver can't fit further in to reach the other screws, even with the carbs out. I also noticed that the outer screws are a little corroded. I'm afraid to twist too hard with a regular phillip's screw driver for fear of stripping the screw heads.

Anyone have thoughts on how to get these out?? Thanks!

--Tyler

The screws can be very tight so you have to get a bit that fits really good. My impact fits in there, but yours must be a larger diameter. Don't force things or you'll make more work for yourself. Borrow an impact that has a narrower head so you can go straight in. Impacts take some experience to know how to twist and hit just right. It can help to give the screw head a good rap first (without twisting) just to help jar the screw threads. Otherwise, it's just a matter of using the right bit, good leverage and the right technique.
I have one idea that may help, but I'm not sure. Since the screws are steel and the head is aluminum, heat would make them expand at a different rate. Aluminum expands faster than steel. If you pop the carbs back in and start the bike for just a couple of minutes, would the heat make the aluminum holes expand LARGER, thus lessening the grip on the screws, or would the screw holes in the head tend to close up and make the screws even tighter???
Believe me, I'm trying to help, not give you a headache.

**KEITH KRAUSE** · 10-09-2004, 04:22 PM

By the way, as Dink said, replace the screws with Allens.
Also, apply a coat of high temp' bearing grease to the new o-rings to help them last. Torque the new screws to 6 ft/lb.

**Anonymous** · 10-09-2004, 04:45 PM

Mine were difficult to get to also, I took a very long extension and got the impact driver back far enough to hit on some of them. I used a hand impact driver, not my air impact wrench. The Phillips head on one of them opened out and wouldn't budge, I took my Dremel and eventually ground the head completely off. It was a pain to avoid cutting into the rubber boot. Once the manifold was off, the screw backed out easily even without the head.

**bwringer** · 10-09-2004, 07:38 PM

If the screws have never been off before, there's an excellent chance you'll need new intake boots, unless the bike has been stored in a sealed plastic bag for 20 years. Make sure the intake boots are still flexible and not cracked.

In any case, cut a slot in the screw heads with a Dremel tool and try removing the screws with your impact and a flat blade bit. If that doesn't work, just drill the heads of the screws off. With the heads off and the boots out of the way, you'll be able to get a good grip with Vice-Grips and remove the stubs.

Replace the screws with stainless steel allen heads, and all will be well. I wouldn't use regular steel screws, because they will corrode quickly in this high-heat location. Make sure you use a bit of anti-sieze to prevent future problems.

And finally, whenever you have problems with stuck threads, it's a good idea to run a tap in and out of the hole with some WD-40 and flush out the debris with more WD-40.

**NickNoo** · 10-09-2004, 08:06 PM

Heres my fave method for shifting those obstinate cross-headed screws (so long as its not recessed).
You need a good quality metal-capped screwdriver (slotted type) and a hammer! Place slot of driver on the screw at an angle of 45 degrees so that when struck, it will loosen the screw. Tap lightly so that it just scores the screw. Usually this will loosen it enough to unscrew it normally. If not, tap the driver a little harder until it releases. The advantage is that it doesnt touch the cross head at all, so you can reuse it if you want to.

**Anonymous** · 10-09-2004, 08:29 PM

Thanks for all the help guys!!

I finally managed to get them all out. The top ones were reachable easily with the impact screwdriver, and I could get the outter two bottom ones with the impact screwdriver at an angle.

The two lower inner ones were the hardest. I finally ended up first tapping the manifolds to the side to make the screws slightly more accessable. Then I snaked the impact screwdriver down in there and used a long thin piece of wood against the end of it to strike with the hammer, as I couldn't get in there with the hammer (while someone else held the impact screwdriver). Since it was a weird angle, I ended up messing up the head on one of those screws. So I tapped the manifold in the other direction and the screw actually loosened, and I was able to take it out by hand.

On all the screws, it just had a really tight seal so it was hard to start turning. After it started going, it was loose enough to move by hand.

I'll be replacing them all with allen heads and putting anti-seize on as well.

Thanks again!

--Tyler

**first timer** · 10-11-2004, 01:04 PM

another trick is to take the impact philips bit and find a 1/4" drive socket and fit the bit into a socket that is tha same size as the bit.

then take the 1/4" socket wrench hook the socket/bit combo up to it put the bit into the hard to get screw push hard with one hand and turn the socket wrench with the other. that should work too. try tightening the screws first too then loosen them that helps

-ryan

Removing intake manifold screws to replace o-rings

Removing intake manifold screws to replace o-rings

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