Digital Gauges Guinea Pig.

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  • dandypop
    Forum Apprentice
    • Jan 2025
    • 42
    • Mt. Pleasant, Utah

    #16
    Originally posted by jprice90

    from the head where the tach cable goes in
    Oil from the valve cover area. I converted to a digital tach and had to cap the tach input hole because it was spitting oil all over my front tire.
    My bikes:
    1983 GS850G​ - cafe racer
    1986 Honda Goldwing (GL1200) - work in progress

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    • Rich82GS750TZ
      Forum Guru
      Past Site Supporter
      Super Site Supporter
      • Jun 2018
      • 5561
      • Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip

      #17
      Well, this pretty much wraps it up. An upgrade? I’m not quite sure. But it is modern and very easy to read all info at a glance. Very bright. Better quality than expected for the low cost. All in all a fairly easy project if you can read a wiring diagram and make good crimps, use a hacksaw and a hammer.
      Links

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      • Rich82GS750TZ
        Forum Guru
        Past Site Supporter
        Super Site Supporter
        • Jun 2018
        • 5561
        • Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip

        #18
        Originally posted by jprice90
        my plan is to find a stock digital tach for my 850. most likely a stock 1100/1150 one. but very nice writeup.

        the tachs on these bikes are such a pain. mine has been leaking since i bought it 10years ago, and probably leaking 20years before that.

        i'll be posting when i dig into the top for that job
        Since we’re off topic anyway. Your leak is something most of us have had and have dealt with. The tach drive (in the valve cover on some models/ in the head on others) has an oil seal and a square profile o-ring. Get new of both. You can find the part numbers on any site that sells parts for our bikes. I like Partshark.com. But the fiches are the same on all such sites. There is a writeup on the procedure by Brian Wringer on BikeCliffs Website. He lists part numbers, but best to do your own homework. Do this job when you have the valve cover off for valve clearance work.
        Links

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        • dandypop
          Forum Apprentice
          • Jan 2025
          • 42
          • Mt. Pleasant, Utah

          #19
          Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ
          Well, this pretty much wraps it up. An upgrade? I’m not quite sure. But it is modern and very easy to read all info at a glance. Very bright. Better quality than expected for the low cost. All in all a fairly easy project if you can read a wiring diagram and make good crimps, use a hacksaw and a hammer.
          Hacksaws and Hammers
          My bikes:
          1983 GS850G​ - cafe racer
          1986 Honda Goldwing (GL1200) - work in progress

          Comment

          • Rich82GS750TZ
            Forum Guru
            Past Site Supporter
            Super Site Supporter
            • Jun 2018
            • 5561
            • Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip

            #20
            To be clear: the hacksaw and hammer were for cutting the ears off the digital gauge cluster bracket and for bending the Suzuki gauge cluster bracket. I have a very spiffy crimper from Vintage Connections for the wire work.
            With standard open-barrel die set.   Our crimping tool manufacturer sells their tools worldwide, under a broad range of OEM brand names, such as GC Waldom, and Tool Aid, among many others. The tool pictured below is the only model of ergonomic crimping tool from that manufacturer that offers a patented 30% reduced-comp
            Links

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            • diptenkrom
              Forum Apprentice
              • Jan 2022
              • 37
              • Rock Hill, SC

              #21
              your work looks great! I have to say that getting the angle right is the hardest part of a gauge setup. my 450 tach cable is long gone and hole filled in. i would like to tap into a coil for a solution at some point.

              Also, there is probably a setting on the unit to adjust how it reads the tach. i bet it is set wrong. it has to be a digital pickup inside the pod, so it is prob doubling the signal or something.

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              • Rich82GS750TZ
                Forum Guru
                Past Site Supporter
                Super Site Supporter
                • Jun 2018
                • 5561
                • Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip

                #22
                Thank you. As I noted, (or thought I did), the tach is cable driven, as is the speedo. There is only one button on the unit. sort of like older digital clocks in some cars that had 2 buttons to change settings, except, just one button that I muddled through a mixture of short and long presses to scroll around to the things you could change (like KPH/MPH). And of course there are no instructions. There is a mire marked "Tacheometer" [sic] that I left disconnected. I can only imagine that it's meant to attach to a coil, instead of the cable from the valve cover. I'm not really worried about it. I know what a 1200 rpm idle feel/sounds like, and I've rarely ever red-lined the bike. Well there was that ONE time. If you want to read about that, here's the link to my Destroy-Rebuild thread. Destroy-Rebuild 750T
                Links

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                • Rob S.
                  Forum Guru
                  Past Site Supporter
                  • Dec 2013
                  • 9383
                  • New York City

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ
                  There is a mire marked "Tacheometer" [sic] that I left disconnected.
                  Beware, those disconected mires can come back and bite you!
                  1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                  2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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