1985 GS700ES -- USD front/wider wheels

[mthomason]

Well, I finally bit the bullet... I figured I needed a new set of tires for the next riding season. The selection was not enormous and my wheels narrow originals (2.15x16 and 2.5x17). So, I decided to change wheels to allow modern rubber (radials). After reading a few posts on this forum I felt a little more confortable in changing them.

I acquired a complete front end off of ebay, a 1992 GSX-R 750 USD set. the rear is off of a 1989 GSX 750 F Katana (the ebay seller said it was off a GSX-R).

The rear wheel was first...I had to get a sprocket as it didn't come with one; it is a 46 tooth from a GSX600F...wish it had been a 45T... Anyway, it is on and I used the spacers from the GS700 and put it together..the wheel seems centered, but will have to spend a little time on it to be sure. I used the original GS700 caliper on the GSX750F unit...now I will make a stay arm from bar stock.

I put the front end on next....it will need som work, the top clamp fitted right, ignition remounted, new lower clamp bolts for fairing frame clearance, speedo/tach mounting, and handlebars. I am undecided on the handlebars; I really like the look of the clip ons, but the simple path appears to be a clamp set with superbike type bars...

I'll take any advice on making sure I do it right AND Safe!

[mthomason]

Another picture

right side

[kichigai]

Nice work there Mthomason! I did a simular swap on my 83 GS1100esd.
I tried using the clip on bars but they were not comfortable for me so I reinstalled the stock bars. I have some new pixs with them mounted which I will be updating soon but hope that the link below with the details will be of some help. Good luck!

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=749432#post749432

[80GS1000]

Nice work there. You won't believe the improvement in braking and handling that newer brakes and radial tires make. :-D

[Junkie]

Nice, I should be doing a front end and rear wheel swap on mine pretty soon. I'm probably just going with the 89 GSXF750 front end though (and rear wheel).

[mthomason]

remaining work

Guys, thanks, for the compliments....but much work remains...things I still need and will be looking for:
1) newer master cylinder
2) longer brake hoses
3) bar end weights
3) new tires...I like the look of those Shinko street slicks...always wanted slicks!
4) lower triple clamp bolts
5) top triple mods for ignition/lock and speedo + brackets - fab
6) new front axle and wheel bearings (92 GSXR 750)
7) new shorter rear sprocket bolts
8 ) rear caliper stay arm - fab
9) new windshield (clear)
10) repaint header, polish canister
11) repaint/polish/chrome wheels -- undecided
12) confrim rear wheel centering
13) new 530 chain.
14) I might even be impulsive for a new speedo/tach....
15) raffle off the GS700 front end (complete), rear wheel, and a GS1150 rear wheel (3.5x17)
16) repaint body work, same scheme --- Pepsi colors type...using pearl white, metallic blue, and bright red (something better than now).

With all the snow outside, I think there will be enough time before riding...

[Billy Ricks]

What width is the rear wheel?

[80GS1000]

Slicks are designed to perform at a designated operating temperature. If they are not within their operating temperature range, they will not grip. It is difficult to maintain this operating temperature on the street. If they are not run at the operating temperature, "cold tearing" and accelerated wear will result. Slicks and DOT race tires also have a limited amount of heat cycles that they can be subjected to before they harden and lose grip.

That, and you'll fall on your @$$ if you hit a wet spot or try to ride in the rain.

Long story short, get some sport radials that are made for the street like the Michelin Pilot Power, Pirelli Diablo Corsa 3, Bridgestone BT-002 RS, Metzeler M3 or the like. They have a minimum amount of tread (look like slicks), and work at street temperatures while still maintaining wet grip....

I have the Michelin Pilot Power on my GSXR and my GS and they have voracious grip wet and dry, not to mention they last a loooong time (like 6k miles on a rear) for a sport tire.

[mthomason]

Front and Rear tires are to be replaced...rear is a Dunlop D205 160/60R-17, mounted on a 3.5x17. Really, the profile looks ok, rounded. I am sure a 150/60-17 is more suited to this width of rim...I will have to decide soon.

The Shinko slicks were just a slight dream, understood about the worthless nature in the wet...this means even the car wash right? Ha, Ha! I actually went down at a car wash about 24 years ago..V45 Interceptor, grabbed a handful of brakes just as hitting a sheet of ice..what an embarassing situation...chalk that one up to get the right tires!

[Billy Ricks]

Front and Rear tires are to be replaced...rear is a Dunlop D205 160/60R-17, mounted on a 3.5x17. Really, the profile looks ok, rounded. I am sure a 150/60-17 is more suited to this width of rim...I will have to decide soon.

The Shinko slicks were just a slight dream, understood about the worthless nature in the wet...this means even the car wash right? Ha, Ha! I actually went down at a car wash about 24 years ago..V45 Interceptor, grabbed a handful of brakes just as hitting a sheet of ice..what an embarassing situation...chalk that one up to get the right tires!

A 140 is really what should go on a 3.5" wheel, a 150 is pushing it, and a 160 is way too much tire for the wheel.

[mthomason]

Thanks, for the advice....I have been running a 130/80-17 on the 2.5x17 rear rim...The handling has been predictable and stable for the setup I have....So, I felt that a 1 inch wider rim would be ok for a 1 inch wider tire(25mm + 130mm ~ 155mm). Maybe I am wrong...With the front going to a 120 from a 100, I think that this is a fair assessment in keeping the handling "similar." If you already had a 3.5 rim and a 150 or 160, did you have adverse handling like wallowing in high speed corners? I am fairly sure the real problem is how quick the turn-in and trail braking are effected.

I am more concerned with the centering of the wheel than the size right now...the sprocket and bearing hub appear much different than the original, but line up real nice with the countershaft AND tire clearance as is..even the GSX750F disc fits my original caliper with a .1 inch outward spacing shim...

The front end seems to have been an exercise in a little triming and brackets...pretty straight forward.

Billy, I saw pistons/rods/crank/cylinder for a GS750E on ebay...any advantage for a power increase?

Mark

[Guest]

I have the same wheel on mine, get the correct rear caliper and mount ('88 to '97 GSX 600 or 750 are the same, got mine off E-bay for four bucks.) with the matching spacer for each side. It fits tight in the stock swingarm but the alignment is great. My tires are 140/70 rear and 110/70 front. I've got a '90s GSX 600 front end on it with a Hagon shock on the rear. Handles so much better than it did with the stock parts, worth every penny!

[mthomason]

So, what is your spacing on the brake side? Would you mind measuring it? As well, on the sprocket side, would you mind posing a pic of it?

Thanks!

[Guest]

So, what is your spacing on the brake side? Would you mind measuring it? As well, on the sprocket side, would you mind posing a pic of it?

Thanks!

The GS 700/750 sprocket side spacer is the same thickness as the GSX 600/750 one. I tried to use the stock GS caliper and it's mount with a modified (cut down) spacer, it will sort of work but if you look closely you'll see that the pads in the GS caliper do not line up correctly on the GSX rotor. The GS rotor is larger in diameter tnan the GSX rotor. Just get the GSX caliper and the mounting bracket for it and the spacer that installs between the mounting bracket and wheel. Added bonus, it's also slightly lighter in weight. The stock GS rear brake master cylinder will work just fine, as will the brake line.