GS1100G Power flat over 6000rpm, 85mph in 5th

[bwringer]

Agreed -- you don't need to modify anything. You just need to get it running as it was designed to. The only setting that should be changed is to richen the idle mixture slightly.

I bet it's running badly in the low end, too, but you don't know it yet -- once you get it running right, it'll probably scare you silly.


I also agree that letting a "pro" touch your bike is sheer madness and despair. Did this "pro" use the shoddy junk jets and needles from a rebuild kit? You must clean and re-use your original hard parts, or buy new OEM.


Just throwing this out there, but I've also encountered a couple of "pro" carb rebuilds where the float heights were set totally wrong. This setting is crucial and precise -- plus or minus 1/2mm either way makes a difference.


Also, make sure your airbox covers and air filter are sealed perfectly. This is simple, takes about $1.99 for foam weatherstripping and an hour or so of your time, and it is mandatory.

[Buffalo Bill]

Carb adjustment questions:

Some of yous guys have real smarts.
In the Clymer manual, I haven't found suggested idle screw settings, can any of you give me some? Another thing I can't find is, how would I adjust or reset the needle depth?
Thanks.

[seuadr]

Some of yous guys have real smarts.
In the Clymer manual, I haven't found suggested idle screw settings, can any of you give me some? Another thing I can't find is, how would I adjust or reset the needle depth?
Thanks.

i believe between 2 and 2.5 turns and tweak it from there.

[rustybronco]

In the Clymer manual, I haven't found suggested idle screw settings, can any of you give me some?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ad.php?t=73723

Another thing I can't find is, how would I adjust or reset the needle depth?
Thanks.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=690498#post690498

[doctorgonzo]

Didn't read every reply, but on fuel starvation as possible cause, make sure no kinks or sharp bends in the fuel line. I was riding one day, noticed no power at higher rpm, and it was a sharp bend in my fuel line preventing max flow.

[Nessism]

Idle screws won't make much if any difference at WOT. The problem is elsewhere.

[Big T]

I think you need to focus on how it runs in 1st and 2nd gears, and 5th will then be taken care of.

If you're in 1st, can you open the throttle and will it go to 9,000 RPM? It should shoot right up to 9,000 RPM, forcing you to hold on tight. Think a 300HP 327 Corvette for comparison.

[dustysnakes]

not to hijack a thread here but im having a very similar problem i was hoping someone had a sugestion where to start adjusting at. mine runs great any throtle position from idle to around 4.5k and from about 6k and up. in between those ranges however it stumbles horribly like its running out of gas but only in that range. i do currently have it tuned a bit lean due to my jet kits not coming in yet but why only in that range?

[tkent02]

not to hijack a thread here but im having a very similar problem i was hoping someone had a sugestion where to start adjusting at. mine runs great any throtle position from idle to around 4.5k and from about 6k and up. in between those ranges however it stumbles horribly like its running out of gas but only in that range. i do currently have it tuned a bit lean due to my jet kits not coming in yet but why only in that range?

Magic?
Actually it probably just happens to suck in a little less air at that RPM, and so not pulling in the fuel it needs to run correctly??
Once it gets reved up into the powerband it is pulling in more air so it can pull in enough fuel?
And below 4,500 it probably isn't pulling in much air at all so the pilot circuit can feed it enough fuel by itself to run OK?

Just guesses, the real answer is the magic.

But if you ever get it jetted correctly it will go a lot better I bet.

I had a Yamaha 650 twin once that did the same thing, just had a dead spot after putting on a new pipe.

[dustysnakes]

ah so..... hmmm mabey i need my hoodoo chicken foot then lol seriously though thanks that does make sense. i just ordered a new head pipe jet kit and k&n pod set up for the thing all of which were on backorder but hopefully ill be able to tune this sucker a bit better after i redo all that. lets see that will work out to about the 600th time ive pulled those carbs this year.

[TheCafeKid]

My 1100G has a *lil* flat spot tween 4.25 and 5k. Not completely fall on its face flat, but enough to notice. But when it hits 5k, you better hold on tight, cos its like liftoff! It almost feels like a turbo spooling up to RPM. Its got a slight lag, then BOOM!

[tkent02]

My 1100G has a *lil* flat spot tween 4.25 and 5k. Not completely fall on its face flat, but enough to notice. But when it hits 5k, you better hold on tight, cos its like liftoff! It almost feels like a turbo spooling up to RPM. Its got a slight lag, then BOOM!

You're lean too.

[TheCafeKid]

You're lean too.

Indeed. Plugs say so as well. I will play a touch with the screws this weekend.

[tkent02]

Indeed. Plugs say so as well. I will play a touch with the screws this weekend.

Why not do it right, raise the needles, up the mains?
Tweak it to perfection??

[TheCafeKid]

Why not do it right, raise the needles, up the mains?
Tweak it to perfection??

Its a completely stock bike, and i may just raise the needles a touch based on some info ive garnered from here. Its likely a tad lean because the stock pipes are starting to leak around the Y connectors and the crossover. I plan a 4into1 and pods for it as soon as i find a set of 34's to rejet. (I wont rejet and drill these, want to keep them stock in case i want to make the bike stock again) And the plugs show just the SLIGHTEST hint of lean.