Project Beast back on track

[chef1366]

Not to insult but a little trick I've learned. Tie speaker wire or something of the like to the cam chain and after putting the 2&3 pistons up throw the chain in the tunnel to keep the crank from rotating.

[renobruce]

Pistons are on. Heading out now to put the jug on.

[first timer]

Excellent, good to know. Keep up the good work Bruce.

Wow. Great thread of some exceptional work. Well done!

Those of you that the have the knowledge, skill, resources and patience to complete these full on restoration/rebuilding projects are truly inspirational.

I'll be watching the progress and look forward to the finished product.

Thanks for taking the time to share the progress!

[renobruce]

Good enough, Ill put it on. Bruce, are you using the stock or manual tensioner?

I'll be using a manual tensioner.

Good enough, Ill put it on. Bruce, are you using the stock or manual tensioner?

[renobruce]

on a side note how do you guys plan to mount it? Do you have to drill out the old pin to get the guide off and then mushroom the new pin with the new guide installed?

As Ray said, the roll pin is a friction fit. I had to use a vise to press it in. It won't come out. And yes, I just drilled out the the old rivet.

[renobruce]

I install this guide in almost every GS motor I build & the pin is a PRESS fit so nothing else is needed except to get it centered. The block keeps it from coming out even if it were loose. Check to see where the tensioner lands on it & make your decision from there. On 16 valvers it's a no brainer. The 8 valvers I'm not sure. Ray.

OK, I threw the jugs on and slid on the stock tensioner.....the cam chain guide will be just fine. The surface where they meet is nice and flat and makes contact all the way around the push pad. I don't think it will wear at all. Here's some crappy pics:






I feel better. Now I can get the pistons in and carry on!

[rapidray]

I install this guide in almost every GS motor I build & the pin is a PRESS fit so nothing else is needed except to get it centered. The block keeps it from coming out even if it were loose. Check to see where the tensioner lands on it & make your decision from there. On 16 valvers it's a no brainer. The 8 valvers I'm not sure. Ray.

let me know cause mine just showed up as well, and i am in the same boat as you two with the guide. I am of the opinion of Bruce and i think it will work there seems to be plenty of meat on it.

on a side note how do you guys plan to mount it? Do you have to drill out the old pin to get the guide off and then mushroom the new pin with the new guide installed?

Yeah, something like that. If I use it, which I think I might, I'll just use my brake line flaring tool to flare the ends.

[first timer]

let me know cause mine just showed up as well, and i am in the same boat as you two with the guide. I am of the opinion of Bruce and i think it will work there seems to be plenty of meat on it.

on a side note how do you guys plan to mount it? Do you have to drill out the old pin to get the guide off and then mushroom the new pin with the new guide installed?

[renobruce]

Well, I never compared the tensioner guides until just now after I saw that they were slightly different. I could of sworn that the part numbers were the same in between the GS1000 and GS1100 motors. I must of made a mistake somewhere. Im a bit undecided if I should use this tensioner guide. I think the area where the tensioner hits is plenty thick, but I am unsure of the angle. I think the tensioner might dig into the new guide. Im leaning on going towards using the stock chain guide, it has plenty of life left and I never had a problem with one before. I will decide when I start assembling my motor.

I'll go out tomorrow and slip the jug on and see how it looks, and take some pics. I sent a PM to rapidray to see if he has used this guide on any 8 valve motors. I have two stock guides and they are both shot. So hopefully this will work, or I'll have to spend the big bucks for a new stock one.

Well, I never compared the tensioner guides until just now after I saw that they were slightly different. I could of sworn that the part numbers were the same in between the GS1000 and GS1100 motors. I must of made a mistake somewhere. Im a bit undecided if I should use this tensioner guide. I think the area where the tensioner hits is plenty thick, but I am unsure of the angle. I think the tensioner might dig into the new guide. Im leaning on going towards using the stock chain guide, it has plenty of life left and I never had a problem with one before. I will decide when I start assembling my motor.

[renobruce]

That swingarm looks fabulous....did you polish that yourself?

Yes, and it took forever! Lots of sanding to get the casting marks out of it. But I ended up using it on my Skunk. I have another one for this project.

Swingarm

That swingarm looks fabulous....did you polish that yourself?