Twinpot Brake upgrade on 78 Skunk

[Guest]

Could you please remind me where the spacer at the wheel is supposed to go? On the inside or outside of the rotor?? (I'm assuming logically it's inside, but...)

Between the rotor and the wheel hub.


Mark

[salty_monk]

Yes as Mark says between the rotor & the hub.

Dan

[Darin Jordan]

Anyone have a solid source for the M10-1.25 Stainless, preferably Socket Head Cap Screws, for bolting on the brackets for this?

I can reuse the existing bolts for the calipers, but need to get a 3rd for the lower bracket mount, and would prefer they all match and look good.

Having a hard time locating suitable bolts in that size.

[bobgroger]

Anyone have a solid source for the M10-1.25 Stainless, preferably Socket Head Cap Screws, for bolting on the brackets for this?

I can reuse the existing bolts for the calipers, but need to get a 3rd for the lower bracket mount, and would prefer they all match and look good.

Having a hard time locating suitable bolts in that size.

Howdy, neighbor. I looked everywhere for stainless socket head bolts in fine thread, no joy. Ended up ordering OEM for a couple bucks each.

[salty_monk]

I have picked them up at my local Tru Valu store. He has a good selection (even if they are really expensive!)

I've used Bolt Depot in the past https://www.boltdepot.com/Catalog.as...FdRyfgodHBMJgw

Not used these but they're out there...

http://www.theboltguy.com/

http://www.stainlesscycle.com/presta/en/

You can also use the bolts from the Ninja Calipers - they are the same size. Lots of them available on Ebay.... I currently have six of the grey plated ninja ones in mine.

[Darin Jordan]

Howdy, neighbor. I looked everywhere for stainless socket head bolts in fine thread, no joy. Ended up ordering OEM for a couple bucks each.

I have picked them up at my local Tru Valu store. He has a good selection (even if they are really expensive!)

I've used Bolt Depot in the past https://www.boltdepot.com/Catalog.as...FdRyfgodHBMJgw

Not used these but they're out there...

http://www.theboltguy.com/

http://www.stainlesscycle.com/presta/en/

You can also use the bolts from the Ninja Calipers - they are the same size. Lots of them available on Ebay.... I currently have six of the grey plated ninja ones in mine.

Thanks, Guys.

The bolts that came in my calipers are a tad too short, so I'm just going to reuse the two factory bolts, and then I picked up a third Stainless Rounded Head Hex-Drive bolt in M10-1.50 with a locking nut for the lower bracket to fork mount. Looks pretty good. I'll replace them when I can find the right ones. Weather is too nice to drag this out for weeks!

Hoping to have it wrapped up later this week.

[Darin Jordan]

Finished her up last night! Glad I looked back through this thread because I had missed the part of having to trim the speedo dust shied, but caught that BEFORE everything was assembled, so took care of that.

Everything bolted together perfectly, and DANG, these feel very nice. Proportional, smooth, and zero caliper movement when applied. I want to replace the front Progressive springs with some non-progressive rate springs, which I think will help with the dive, but otherwise, this is a nice improvement.

Thank you, Dan, for the elegant solution with those brackets and all the info on calipers and rotors.

Looking forward to this summer!

20170524_165123.jpg

[Darin Jordan]

Another angle a little closer up...

20170524_165104.jpg

[salty_monk]

You should make sure that stainless bolt is an A2-70 one & not made of Cheese but I wouldn't have a problem using the standard thread as long as there is a locking element or threadlock.
The load is 90 degrees to the thread so the only real benefit of the fine thread is vibration resistance (and more threads in the thin caliper bracket but as this is the one with the nut on it that's not applicable here).

Looking good. I have straight weight springs & emulators fitted - they help with dive too.

The progressives with the close together coils lopped off are about a 50lb/in spring (approx 1.0 KGmm from memory, you can google that) so that might be a cost effective option for you if the spring rate is right... Replace what you cut off with Schedule 40 pipe.

[bobtail84]

Looking good. I have straight weight springs & emulators fitted - they help with dive too.

I have Hagon progressive springs in the front and they do dive a bit under breaking with the new set up. I don't suppose you remember what the code was for your emulators do you Dan?

[salty_monk]

I made up some adapters & ordered the ones from MikesXSthat are made for 35mm forks. A little cheaper that way... https://www.mikesxs.net/suspension.html

Racetech - FEGV-S3301

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?88036-Link-for-GS1100-RaceTech-fork-upgrades

Being a lightweight I cut down some stock springs to give me about a 43lb spring.

[Chuck78]

Thanks Dan for the awesome brake research you have done! I can ride faster more confidently for many years now than if I had stock GS brakes... Very crucial, and very good looking brake package!

[bobtail84]

Thanks Dan, I'm in the states in August and I'm going to order the Racetech emulators as they are a lot cheaper in the USA and take them back to blighty.


Looking good Chuck, looks like a great road to ride from the pictures.

[salty_monk]

Nice! Shame the exchange rate is in the toilet or it would be even better!

[thebrandonbeezy]

Thanks Dan for the awesome brake research you have done! I can ride faster more confidently for many years now than if I had stock GS brakes... Very crucial, and very good looking brake package!

Chuck, think you could do an in depth review of your gs750/920, the whole bike? On it own thread of course?