Fork springs.

[Marine36]

I just bought a set of Progressive fork springs. Paperwork says discard factory spacer. Does not say to put one back in and springs did not come with one.
Anybody have any suggestions for the 83 1100 G. I'm well fed at 240LBS .

Do I have to disable the anti dive to install the progressive springs. Are there any special instructions for removing fork with anti dive.

Any help advice or puns would be greatly appreciated.

And yes I searched first found all kinds of info but nothing specific to my 1100 but then again I am not all that search savvy.

[Marine36]

Please Help!!!

[pano]

Not the same bike but I installed progressive springs on my 821100e and left the antidive intact.

I did whatever the instructions said but i know I kept the spacer.

I did not remove the forks but drained the oil by removing the drain bolt at the base of the fork.

I just replaced the fork seals on my 1000s and removing the forks isn't an issue (even with the antidive) but you should have a manual for reference.

[Marine36]

My Clymer manual fail to mention the anti-dive unit and how to remove the forks with it.

[pano]

I have a Suzuki manual.

I split the antidive by removing the two allen bolts that hold the top half of the antidive to the bottom half.

You do not remove the brake line.

I was waiting for it to spew fluid but nothing leaked and it was dry inside even looked a little corroded.

Does that make sense if you look at it?

I don't have a center stand so i jacked the front end up, removed the front fender, calipers and tire. To remove the forks i split the antidive as described above.

[bwringer]

Well, if you have anti-dive forks, you don't have an 1100G. Or someone bolted 1100E forks onto your bike.

Is there a greasy floppy chain thing back there that makes the rear wheel go, or is it a nice neat and clean shaft drive?


Anyway, cutting new fork spacers is a bit of a crapshoot. With the forks extended and fork oil LEVEL set correctly, drop in the springs, add the washers, and see where you're at.

If they're '83 1100E forks, you probably don't need to add a spacer. Just insert the preload adjuster and screw it in. It will take a bit of work, since you have to work against the springs to get the threads started. Set it to the middle position and measure sag. You want about 1.25 to 1.5 inches of sag (approximately 30-35mm) http://lmgtfy.com/?q=measure+fork+sag

[bonanzadave]

If they're '83 1100E forks, you probably don't need to add a spacer. Just insert the preload adjuster and screw it in.

Thats how I did my 82. No spacer. I left the anti dive alone but I do have stainless lines. At 240lbs I would use at least 15w oil. Set the pre load adjusters all the way up. Might smear some grease on the adjuster spring and threads and then screw them on. Make sure the bike is lifted up so the forks can extend all the way out. Front tire off the ground. I use a 3/8 drive ratchet with an extension and the proper socket. Handle bars have to be off. Not that hard. Set the pre load adjusters down to suit your ride.

[Marine36]

Wow I am embarrassed!

Brian you are correct. I have no antidive on this bike. Just an air balance tube.

[Nessism]

I suggest leveling the spacer/spring with the top of the fork tube with the fork fully extended. When you install the top cap the spring will compress about 3/4 inch. That's pretty much the standard method with the heavy shafty bikes like the 850. You can always add a longer spacer if you need more ride height.

[bwringer]

Setting preload (and sag) is sort of a trial and error thing. So try it first with whatever spacer length it takes to compress about an inch or so before engaging the threads, try it, measure sag, and then install new spacers if you need to.

[Rover]

Brian you are correct. I have no antidive on this bike. Just an air balance tube.

We've all been there.