Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cylinder head bolts max torque??

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Cylinder head bolts max torque??

    Okay quick over view....

    1981 GS 1100 engine
    APE heavy duty head studs
    Cometic copper base and head gasket - (Gaskets were anealed and installed with two applications of gaska cintch, apply one layer let get tacky apply second layer let get tacky then assemble)
    Head has been o-ringed (copper O-ring)
    750 oil pump gears (lots of oil pressure)
    Turbo Charged
    Fresh rebuild less than 20 miles
    I have not retorqued the head from intial assembly

    I took the bike out for a little test and tune run the other day and rang it a little hard running up to 10 psi and she started leaking a little (kinda allot actually) oil from the head gasket and I think a little from the base gasket as well.

    My question -
    With the heavy head studs and copper gaskets can I torque just a tad over the manfacture recommended 25 - 29 ft. lbs........

    I was thinking maybe torque to like 35lbs.????

    For those of you drag racing or running boost your selves do you cheat a little and over tighten the head bolts???

    Here is pic of the bike just for fun

    #2
    APE says 36 to 42 ft-lbs

    Heck I torque the oem studs down to 42 ft-lbs too.
    1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
    1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
    1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
    1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
    01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by RacingJake View Post
      APE says 36 to 42 ft-lbs

      Heck I torque the oem studs down to 42 ft-lbs too.
      I usually "fudge" the O.E.M. torque specs a percent or two for safety. (calibration of torque wrenches and all)
      Good to know that I can go a bit further safely. Thanks for the post!

      Daniel

      Comment


        #4
        38~40 is where I like to be at with APE studs and nuts. I don't suggest any more unless you like to gamble.

        and it may leak oil regardless what you do from the head and base.

        I have goten used to wiping my engine off - tried everything reasonable but a little gets thru no matter what I've done.
        SUZUKI , There is no substitute

        Comment


          #5
          Here is a post on calibration from a thread on Torque Wench calibration. Even a cheapy wrench will work well if you know what torque it clicks.

          Most of the factors affecting inaccuracy (beyond the wrench) are going to be in the thread quality , the type of material and the technique. All that together you could be off +/- 20%

          Comment


            #6
            Okay cool, kinda wish I would have done that the first time through.

            Hopefully I can just give em a little squees and she will seal up.

            Comment


              #7
              Take it apart & re-do it. Once a copper gasket leaks it will not stop. Also, the copper orings will crush. Use stainless or piano wire for oringing. You also should have retorqued the head after heat cycling it 2-3 times BEFORE you put it on boost. Torque the head to 40 ftlbs. Ray.

              Comment


                #8
                Re-read my above reply & try again! Gasgacinch works AWESOME if you do the install CORRECTLY, & RETORQUE after heat cycling! Ray.

                Comment

                Working...
                X