front fork air pressure

[Peter opaski]

Does any one know how much air pressure gos in the front forks 1982 gs 850. Thanks

[Rob S.]

Does any one know how much air pressure gos in the front forks 1982 gs 850. Thanks

I have an '82 1100e. If you can't find your figures, I'll look up mine soon. But...

Everyone here is going to tell you to forget the air forks entirely, just replace the springs. (I haven't done that yet.)

[AJ]

Everyone here is going to tell you to forget the air forks entirely, just replace the springs. (I haven't done that yet.)

What's wrong with air forks? Air makes a very progressive spring.

You can find both the Owners and Service manuals on Bass Cliff's excellent website (major resource to the community, amen)

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Here's the bit you need: 8.5 psi for the 1982 850G.

[bwringer]

What's wrong with air forks? Air makes a very progressive spring.

You can find both the Owners and Service manuals on Bass Cliff's excellent website (major resource to the community, amen)

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Here's the bit you need: 8.5 psi for the 1982 850G.

There's plenty wrong with air forks.

Mainly, air is not reliable. It leaks out.

In addition, fork seals wear out sooner. Air pressure varies depending on temperature.

[AJ]

There's plenty wrong with air forks.

Mainly, air is not reliable. It leaks out.

In addition, fork seals wear out sooner. Air pressure varies depending on temperature.

Air is free. Air is easy to adjust. And air is how the things were originally designed (for the preservation purists ).

[tkent02]

Air and wimpy springs are from the 70s. OK back then, but really not so good. When one fork leaks more air than the other, the forks tend to bind up rather than sliding freely.
Can also cause all kinds of ill handling besides just a bumpy ride.

Now there are real springs available. Much better fork oils. Cartridge emulators work pretty well too. There are really good rear shocks available. There are also great tires and brakes now that are lightyears ahead of what we had 30 years ago. If you are content with the poor level of safety and comfort these bikes had when they were new then stick with the air forks, hard rubber tires and wooden brakes.

If you aren't content, upgrade it.

Personally I'd rather have a comfortable bike that is safe to ride than a 100% original one that isn't.

[AJ]

Air and wimpy springs are from the 70s. OK back then, but really not so good. When one fork leaks more air than the other, the forks tend to bind up rather than sliding freely.
Can also cause all kinds of ill handling besides just a bumpy ride.

Now there are real springs available. Much better fork oils. Cartridge emulators work pretty well too. There are really good rear shocks available. There are also great tires and brakes now that are lightyears ahead of what we had 30 years ago. If you are content with the poor level of safety and comfort these bikes had when they were new then stick with the air forks, hard rubber tires and wooden brakes.

If you aren't content, upgrade it.

Personally I'd rather have a comfortable bike that is safe to ride than a 100% original one that isn't.

All good points, TK.

Fortunately, the air system on my forks is fine. Sure, the ride is anachronistic (I'm always thinking about converting with modern forks, wheels, and brakes), but I have other bikes with modern gear to ride.

[Guest]

I de-aired my forks, added new sonic springs and 20w fork oil. Don't need no stinking air.