GS 1000 engine in GSXR 1100 first gen frame?

[John Kat]

The electric wiring is finished (except for the lights), everything is functional and I witnessed the first sparks when hitting the start button.

I couldn't start the engine as I couldn't reuse my GS 1000's fuel tap...
The future color scheme should look like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Ds9t01reN8

[John Kat]

Well done John,you've done a great job on something that Most people would say couldn't be done ....Congrads

Many thanks.
Must be peanuts compared to what you guys do to turn motorbikes into an art
My 2.0 version should have one of your exhausts for sure!

[John Kat]

I like this project a lot. Recently bought a 91 gsxr 1000 frame/tank/fairing. Been looking at my 83 750 motor with replica-racer on the brain. Consider a agm battery in it and gain more space.

Thanks!
The agm battery will be for version 2.0 if I get this one to work correctly...

Well done John,you've done a great job on something that Most people would say couldn't be done ....Congrads

[Mista M]

I like this project a lot. Recently bought a 91 gsxr 1000 frame/tank/fairing. Been looking at my 83 750 motor with replica-racer on the brain. Consider a agm battery in it and gain more space.

[John Kat]

The Yoshimura tail section is finally in place.
What's tough in these kind of projects is that behind the main project there are many sub-projects that require different types of skills.
The pictures will describe the process better than any words I believe.
The tail section and it's subframe

The bolts that attach the subframe to the bike mounted frame

All bolts in place waiting to be tightened

A view from under the tail

Next I need to fit the rear light...

[John Kat]

Given the extra place under the fiberglass seat, I managed to fit the Shindengen RR and the CDI.
The vertical tabs are now welded in place in order to take the transversal bars that will be attached to the seat base

[trippivot]

John that looks post 2000, not authentic to your project.
This US body maker has stuff very close to your goal.
Airtech

I have bought from BEASLEY COMPOSITES. just another source for reference.

[John Kat]

John that looks post 2000, not authentic to your project.
This US body maker has stuff very close to your goal.
Airtech

I know these guys as I bought my seat from them.
So far the TRX fairing is the closest I found to the Yoshimura 1980 Endurance racer.
It looks pretty big and with the right colors why not?
Last but not least it should accomodate the clip-ons above the top triple.

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/Classic%20Racers/suzuki_gs_1000_r_yoshimura__endu.htm

[Buffalo Bill]

John that looks post 2000, not authentic to your project.
This US body maker has stuff very close to your goal.
Airtech

[John Kat]

In the search for an appropriate fairing, I came across the model used on the Yamaha 850 TRX.
Not sure this model ever got to the US?
Here's what it looks like with twin headlights:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/TRX-850-TYP-4-UN-Sport-Verkleidung-Umbau-auf-Doppelsch-/160534183532?

Or here without headlights

http://www.poly26.com/carenage-moto-tuning-yamaha-850-trx_5-135.html

[John Kat]

The seat attachment has moved forward!
Given that the seat base is much higher than the frame rails, I decided to build a kind of pyramid to get to the required height.
The lower layer comes from my spare frame and is attached through 4 silentblocs not so much to quell any vibration but to clear the battery box fittings.
This layer will also accomodate the Regulator Rectifier on a welded aluminum plate as a base.
The next two layers ( in wood on the picture but later in aluminum) will be solidly attached to the seat base.
Four vertical straps will be welded on the aluminum frame just below the transversal wood beams in order to get an horizontal bolt through the top of them to secure the transversal wood beams.
The bolts will be accessed through small holes in the side of the seat.
This should allow an easy removal of the seat for maintenance purposes.
It's getting frighteningly close to getting the bike to run...

[John Kat]

A favourite way of mine to mount fiberglass seats is to cut out a marine ply base piece and attatch it under the glass seat. Usually around 1/2in thick is adequate. Four bolts or screws with large flat washers under the heads holds the ply on. To hold to the frame, i usually do captive bolts through the ply. Heads recessed into the ply under the glass and nuts below the ply. This means that you can undo the seat mounts without having to remove any seat padding, and the fasteners are hidden too.

Excellent idea!
Thanks Greg

[GregT]

A favourite way of mine to mount fiberglass seats is to cut out a marine ply base piece and attatch it under the glass seat. Usually around 1/2in thick is adequate. Four bolts or screws with large flat washers under the heads holds the ply on. To hold to the frame, i usually do captive bolts through the ply. Heads recessed into the ply under the glass and nuts below the ply. This means that you can undo the seat mounts without having to remove any seat padding, and the fasteners are hidden too.

[posplayr]

That is the problem with the Airtech stuff; they seem to provide little more than a smooth outer skin. Are you going to fabricate that mount and bolt it on? Seems like you would still want a reinforced area to put a bolt through.