GS750E Rebuild Update

[txironhead]

To make your bike happy, I'd probably invest in a K&N slip-in filter to replace your original, get a 4-1 (easier to install, brand your preference or per suggestion of the forum) and go with a Stage 2 kit from Dynojet. You'll still have to do some adjusting, but it'll get you in the ballpark. Lots of info here on jetting. The reason I suggest the filter is that an engine is nothing but a big air pump. If you have less restriction on the outlet, you need less restriction on the inlet or you'll have an imbalance. Plus, the K&N lasts forever and is likely the last air cleaner you'll buy for the bike, unless you eventually convert to pods.

I have a V&H 4-1 on mine, but it came with the bike. I've heard all of the complaints about installation, so it's your call, doesn't seem too hard if you have the right tools. It does look good, though!

To make life easier, I'd go ahead and get the carb balancer and carb adjustment tool. Just remember, before you start balancing the carbs make sure your valves are adjusted, you don't have any air or gas leaks, your battery is fully charged and your charging system is working. (see the "Stator Papers" in the garage section of the forums to test your charging system) It'd be a good idea to replace your plugs, too. Sounds like a lot of work, but if one of those things are off you'll never get the carbs balanced/jetted properly. As I'm learning the hard way......

A lot of people here also recommend replacing the header bolts with studs to prevent breakage later down the line. Something to think about....

[Dink]

Well here is the real kicker... I did not mention that the header pipe and the muffler are welded on as a single piece I did not weld that TPO likely did that why? I have no clue...usually there is some kind of clamp that joins the header to the muffler but apparently this person wanted to forgo that clamp.

This something I can simply just hack through with a saw? Since that would be shortening the header pipe I think I might be SOL.

This is stock ex-factory. Yes you can carefully cut throught the weld at the mid point joint and replace the mufflers only; with aftermarket mufflers.

Dink

[duaneage]

I would not recommend MAC pipes. I boughta pipe for my honda and the paint came off first ride out. Called them and they promised to send me another. That was in July. Quality was below average, welds so so. I saw stupid ideas in how it was made that will cause it to rust. Not a lot of engineering went into it, looked just thrown together without any thought to proper design. I can't speak for V and H but I have seen pics on the GS where they did not chrome the back side of pipes and worse yet, the pipes did not fit right.

IMHO the factory pipes are best, I would look on ePay for a set.

[Kcwiro]

[/left]
This is stock ex-factory. Yes you can carefully cut throught the weld at the mid point joint and replace the mufflers only; with aftermarket mufflers.

Dink

I have looked at bike bandit ... z1... and googled a few places no luck on finding just plain mufflers suggestions?

[txironhead]

For cheap mufflers you can go to www.jcwhitney.com. Dennis Kirk has a pretty good selection of both full systems and mufflers. I even had a set of Screamin' Eagle (factory aftermarket Harley) mufflers on my Shadow that fit with minimal mods, and I picked them up new off Ebay for $35 for the pair including shipping. The main information you need is the diameter of the header pipe it's going on and how long you need the muffler(s) to be. Mounting brackets can be made from strap steel from the hardware store and painted for around $5.

[salty_monk]

I have a set of stock pipes & Cans for sale for a GS750, see the For Sale section, headers look a little different, the middle ones aren't joined.

Presumably they will fit any 750 as there are no model numbers on them.



more pics: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...y_monk/Suzuki/

Dan

[Kcwiro]

they look very nice but looking at them they don't look like I would be able to mate them with my bike.. the mufflers I got are secured to the rear foot pegs ... yours look hooked up the the front ones... not sure if that would matter or not but I'm a rookie here :-D but going by what I have seen I don't think i would be able to use these...I'll look into the muffler only replacement vs going full replacement


Never thought bike would require this much thinking in the project =). So I have full info what do jet kits run for anyway? ... need to do some more number crunching... still got time to consider this since I just ordered my pingel valve and adapter plate. ty... chuckycheese for the info on that. Still need to get new o-rings engine and airbox some are torn others are cracking big time. Have that site around somewhere in my notes.

Brake lines I think after the engine will be next anyone have any down points on doing stainless steel lines? If there are any. Keep the dialog coming I'm getting a lot of info so I'm open for opinions. Thank you

Also thanks salty for the offer on your pipes

[txironhead]

Expect between $60-120 for the jet kit. Like I said, those little pieces of brass are expensive. Z1 Enterprises is probably your best bet unless you can find a set cheap on Ebay. Just get the Dynojet part # from their website and check around.

As far as stainless lines go, I've never had any problems using Russell universal lines and their fittings. Measure your old lines, make any modifications for taller/shorter handlebars, etc, and use the same angles/fittings as the factory lines (45 degree bend, etc.). Some of the guys here have had luck finding places that custom make hydraulic line in braided stainless cheap. Check around locally. Dennis Kirk, JP Cycles metric, even JC Whitney might carry universal braided lines.

[Kcwiro]

I was thinking of going with the kit this site offers. I got the link from another thread about Stainless steel lines. Anyone had dealings with them before that can offer an opinion on them?

http://www.paragonperformance.com

[tkent02]

Definitely do the rings while you are in there...

unless the old ones are very nearly new, hone the cylinders and replace the rings. If you do replace them you need to break them in, and when you do that is not the time to be messing around with incorrect mixtures. The engine needs to be running as nearly perfect as possible to break it in correctly. So keep the stock exhaust for now, fix the hole with JB weld or replace the pipe but do not go with an aftermarket pipe at this time. Wait untill the engine is broken in to do the pipe.

[Kcwiro]

What is the length to properly break in the new rings?... can't imagine it being too many miles really. Engine if the busted odo was correct had approx 40k miles on it. the condition of what I have seen in the engine draws me to think it is pretty close.

I'll have the pistons removed soon enough so I will be able to check on their wear when I get them out. If things go good I will perhaps just have to do the valve job and likely replace the rings. I will see what I can find to temporarily fix the exhaust so once the carbs and engine are back in one piece I can get it set properly.

Thanks for the tip

[Pearson]

I was thinking of going with the kit this site offers. I got the link from another thread about Stainless steel lines. Anyone had dealings with them before that can offer an opinion on them?

http://www.paragonperformance.com

Search on paragon, there's plenty of discussion about their products here on the forum. I just replaced my 3 brake lines from Spieglerusa.com. I like theirs cause I could choose the fitting and banjo bolt colors I wanted. Lot more expensive than I was thinking they would be tho (>$200) but you might do better.

[Kcwiro]

I'll check them out... awesome avatar btw ... that had me laughing when I first noticed it

[Kcwiro]

making another crack at getting this block to come off.... I drenched the thing in PB Blaster last night so it was litterally coming out of the head bolts... lets see it not get loose off that.[-o<

Will update later tonight..stay tuned

[salty_monk]

I've probably sold the headers so you can buy just the cans if you want.... The part number is in the photo's.

Rear mounts look the same & same position as yours, not sure why mine have the extra front fixing... maybe someone can enlighten us...