Project: 1985 GS550ES

I ended up drilling mine out with a sears backout kit... those things are horribly soft... I "grounded" one for good and gave ut and swapped carbs with one I bought off E-bay...

I'd offer you some good air mix screws (I have two left) but they are going in a 550 I'm rebuilding for an old roommate...

First, fill the small depression with carb cleaner or dip to soften up the paint. Then screw it in 1/2 turn, out 1 turn and repeat until it comes out.

The head distorted when it became harder and harder to turn, so you tried to force it, right?

You need the closest fitting screwdriver head you can fit in there

I'll bathe it in carb cleaner and see if I can get it to budge.

Actually, I have yet to move this screw in or out. When I got there it was already half stripped so I used the best driver I have, which fit really well. Couldn't budge this thing either way, then it stripped the rest of the way on a counter-clockwise effort.

Thanks for the tip.

Keep 'em comin', I'm open all night!

[Big T]

First, fill the small depression with carb cleaner or dip to soften up the paint. Then screw it in 1/2 turn, out 1 turn and repeat until it comes out.

The head distorted when it became harder and harder to turn, so you tried to force it, right?

You need the closest fitting screwdriver head you can fit in there

I HATE flat head screws! Here's a pic of my stripped air mix screw (top right, just above the diaphram body) somebody before me started the job and I've now finished it)). I'm getting ready to drill it and use a back out bit to remove it. Before I do this, does anybody have a better idea?

Also, any idea where I might locate an OEM replacement?

Anybody with a better idea? Going once, going twice,...

Ooops!
Apologies if you've already seen this.
Everything you need to strip and clean your carbs.
http://www.thegsresources.com/files/...g%20Series.pdf

No worries. Yes, I've seen it and have a copy printed for reference.

mikuni carbs

Ooops!
Apologies if you've already seen this.
Everything you need to strip and clean your carbs.

http://www.thegsresources.com/files/GS%20Carb%20Cleaning%20Series.pdf

mikuni carbs

Apologies if you've already seen this.
Everything you need to strip and clean your carbs

Stripped air mix screw!

I HATE flat head screws! Here's a pic of my stripped air mix screw (top right, just above the diaphram body) somebody before me started the job and I've now finished it)). I'm getting ready to drill it and use a back out bit to remove it. Before I do this, does anybody have a better idea?

Also, any idea where I might locate an OEM replacement?

skreemer,

Thanks for the reply. I was aware of the idle adjust and haven't yet cleaned the carbs. I've been disassembling and reassembling just to get familiar with the parts so that I can put them back in the right places after the cleaning. There's lots of gunk throughout the bowls and I'm sure the starter and low speed circuits and pipes are clogged a bit. Got the Gunk dip last week to get the job done.

I'll have to get a hold of Haynes book. I've definitely noticed the Clymers seems to be homed in on bikes a few years earlier than my 85, but I wasn't aware that Haynes was better for later models. Thanks.

http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t121/MelodicMetalGod/1985%20Suzuki%20GS550ES/?action=view&current=IMG_1034.jpg

the knob bottom slightly off center is the idle adjust.... set the air/fuel mix to where everything runs right and use the idle adjust to fine tune it.

if you've cleaned everything and it won't idle clean the choke circuit... don't forget the tubes bottom center in this picture:

http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t121/MelodicMetalGod/1985%20Suzuki%20GS550ES/?action=view&current=IMG_1044.jpg

also a word of warning... the clymers is more suited to the older bikes and they mix the information in them sometimes... I actually pitched my clymers and use the Haynes for everything...

Diggin' into the carbs

Finally found some time. See the latest pics here . Let me know what the condition of the carbs looks like to you.

If you know anything about these carbs or where to get info on them, let me know. I've been trying to get a Factory Service Manual from RepairManualClub.com, but no luck so far due to technical issues on their side.

LeeGS550E was kind enough to forward a few cutaways of the carbs to me. Other than that, I'm using the Clymers book and using what I can from the carb docs in the "garage" here on TheGSRescources.

The problem isn't mileage, it's age. Replace those o-rings or you will regret it later. My bike only had 18k miles on it, and when I dropped the o-ring after removing it... it shattered.

LOL, NO KIDDING, WHO WOULD OF THOUGHT THAT COULD HAPPEN. AND YOU RIGHT TELLING ME TO CHANGE THEM, THX

[Nerobro]

The problem isn't mileage, it's age. Replace those o-rings or you will regret it later. My bike only had 18k miles on it, and when I dropped the o-ring after removing it... it shattered.

As much as I'd rather ride than wrench (although I do enjoy the wrenching, as frustrating as it can sometimes be), I'm trusting the originals on this as they seem to be nice and pliable. I may be proven wrong, but if I have to pull the carbs again, so be it. That's part of owning the bike.

Don't assume they are good...Alot of people recommended I change mine and I didn't. Guess what, they were bad and I had to. For the couple of bucks it costs, it's worth it. You may have to find o-rings that match up ( my dealer said the parts were not avail from Suzuki) but they are out there. My bike only has 15000 mi and sat fer a few years with a carb issue...my o-rings were like hard plastic (PB53 Chevy) did the rebuild on the carbs and I was there when the o-rings were pulled....bike runs sweet now.

Thanks for the update foghog. Safer is fine with me!

skreemer, here's the run down on lines coming from the fuel tank. As you can see, there's a total of four hoses and 1 electrical (the fuel gauge wires) for a total of 5 items. foghog has indicated that #'s 3 and 4 below are the vent tube (routed to smog canisters in Cali, but open elsewhere) and a fuel overflow tube associated with the fuel sending unit. Do you concur? (Here's a pic for reference. #'s 3 and 4 below are the two lines resting on the frame back bone.)

1. Vacuum to petcock
2. Fuel to petcock
3. Large overflow (?) from forward underneath center point of tank to [no connection, routed like a breather line]
4. Unknown smaller line (vacuum ?) from right underneath point of tank to [no connection, routed like a breather line]
5. Fuel gauge connectors (electrical)