Project: 1985 GS550ES

[Nerobro]

Under hard braking, if you don't have the vent tubes hooked up, you're going to end up with gas all over hte top of your block. :-) I"m goingto be reinstalling my vent tubes :-/

You have a great little bike and it looks good already. I am restoring my 1984 GS550ES and the first thing I did was remove, teardown, and clean the carburetors. They were dirty and really needed a cleaning in carburetor cleaner and blown out with compressed air. Check your rubber boots for correct fit and tightness on the front and back of the carbs. Spend a few bucks and put in new plugs with antiseize brushed on the threaded part.

I removed my exhaust system and installed a Vance and Hines pipe that I found on Ebay. I had to rejet for the pipe, and the bike runs hard and sounds great. Sorting out some electrical problems, my regulator/rectifier just burned out and I have one on order.

You appear to have the will and stamina to keep at your project. Keep at it and keep asking questions.

Good luck to you. Tom

You've got a nice looking 85 550ES. I am restoring my 84 550ES. Have your carburetors been cleaned? I would suggest you remove them pull them apart and remove the plastic and rubber parts and clean them in carburetor cleaner and then use high pressure air to clean out all of the passages. Dirty carbs cause all kinds of issues. We have a unique carb system in that our bikes are equipped with (2) Mikuni Two barrel carbs.
I pulled mine off and they had a lot of crap in them that the carb cleaner took care of. I installed a vance and hines header and pipe so had to rejet. I have had a lot of problems getting it to run right, but now it really does run well and pulls real hard. Keep at it, you seem to have the will and stamina to see it through. I am not sure what the hoses are in the picture. I have just the two hoses 1 fuel and 1

Pics!!! Project Photo's including the latest!

For your viewing enjoyment and hopefully helpful to others considering cracking their BSW30SS carbs. Photo Album (98 photos to date)

Well then, I think I'll give that a go. That's how I cleaned 'em on my CB350 back in the day (I didn't even KNOW there was this thing called "dip"). Of course, now that I've said that, how many folks will chime in to say that "If it ain't dipped, it ain't done!" :?

BTW, I've got the float valve assembly's pulled and I've seen the o-ring. O-rings are the whole reason I was asking about removing the throttle assembly and also why I was attempting to remove the pilot screws (that were already stripped). There are o-rings and seals all over these things!

it's just that there's not always a need to dip em... a can of carb cleaner and about 45 minutes to an hour Nerobro and I cleaned a set of 83 GS550ES carbs that had been oil fogged for storage quite a few years ago...

make sure you pull the strainer over your float valves out... the strainer has an o-ring on it..

I am not sure I'd dip them... IIRC there's no o-rings on the throttle shaft, so it's safe to dip. But if you can get the pilot screws out, just clean them :-)

Huh? After everything I've read on this site regarding cleaning carbs, that is the first time that I've read anything indicating that dipping may not be the way to go. What gives?

Everything I've read says to not remove the throttle plates. Since you'd have to pull them in order to remove the throttle assembly, I wouldn't do it. Like Nero said, no rubber involved with those. I had mine in the dip for up to 3 days, and they came out fine. My dip also says something like 20 minutes, but I think you want to go for at least 12 hours.

[Nerobro]

I am not sure I'd dip them... IIRC there's no o-rings on the throttle shaft, so it's safe to dip. But if you can get the pilot screws out, just clean them :-)

How long do you dip?

So now it's two questions:

1) Do I need to pull the throttle valve assembly or can I dip the body with the throttle valve still installed?

2) How long do you dip the carbs for? My dip (Gunk) recommends 20 minutes.

Do I need to pull the throttle assembly for the dip process?

I'm asking because a) I haven't found any removal procedures for doing so, b) I can't seem to pull the cap on the outside of the assembly and c) in the carb cleanup series, it looks like the carb is dipped with the throttle valve still installed (but I'm not certain from the pic).

Obviously, my big concern is whether or not the soultion will reach any seals on the throttle assembly. Also, it seems the end cap is made of something other than metal.

I'm guessing I need to pull that throttle assembly out, but I'd appreciate a few second opinions. Thanks!

Factory Service Manual acquired!!!

What a wealth of information!

Got it from RepairManualClub.com. Not a pretty or efficient website, but it did deliver and for free!

Re-Installed the Starter...

...while considering carb options (pilot screw issues).

I had removed the starter due to a spider and bee infestation that I discovered when I removed the starter cover plate for cleaning. The bee made a home out of mud in the starter bay and in one mounting tab while the spider (and about a million fried babies) was in the other tab with a lot of silk. Odd neighbors.

Before pic

After pic

I don't know about you, but I feel MUCH better knowing that I'll be the only rider on my bike!

Starter is re-installed. \\/

Now, time to get back to this pilot screw issue...

[Nerobro]

The needle screws need to be 3.5 to 4.5 turns out. Mine are at 3.75 right now.

I ended up drilling mine out with a sears backout kit... those things are horribly soft... I "grounded" one for good and gave ut and swapped carbs with one I bought off E-bay...

I'd offer you some good air mix screws (I have two left) but they are going in a 550 I'm rebuilding for an old roommate...

Thanks for the reply, but not really what I wanted to hear. :shock:

For the moment, the carb cleaner is hopefully working it's magic. We'll see...