Jdub goes there 1981 650e rebuild

[jdub6092]

Front Master Cylinder rebuild.
This is an image of the one I have, but searching far and wide, it is just not available. Wondering if something like the subsequent image could be used as a replacement kit.
Also wondering if I could get by with just replacing the rubber parts. The rubber that snaps into the bottom of the spring looks OK and I could probably get by with the o-ring that is on the sliding piece on the piston shaft or find a generic replacement. Need dust seal rubber piece. Bore is 5/8 (.625") and looks to be in decent shape. The piston measures 0.619" and feels a little sloppy. Would appreciate some assistance.

[nvr2old]

Hard to say jdub. It all depends on what condition the parts are in as far as prep hours needed before painting starts. When you start getting into the labor for repairing dents or rust, then add the cost of plastic filler, primer, sealer, multiple grades of sandpaper, it starts to add up quickly. If your parts just need to be sanded and sprayed, that saves a lot. Depending on what color you choose, white or black is the least expensive, any shade of red costs easily 2-3 times as much. Pearls add even more. A single pint of base coat can run upwards of $300 or more. Providing decals save you a bit, for sure.

[jdub6092]

Considering one roll of 3/4" 3M masking tape cost 16 bux a roll and a quart of clear w/hardener is over $200 these days that's almost a bargain with the cost of quality materials coming in at about half of that quote. If the guy's good, that quote isn't out of line and he's only pocketing about a grand. Even 12 years ago I used to charge $800 just for doing a tank alone, and prices were less then half of what they are now for materials.

I appreciate the reality check.
Is that also pretty reasonable price for a single color with decals provided by me?

[nvr2old]

On a sad note, I was quoted $1600-$1800 for tank, fender, covers and tail. I will get a few more quotes and hope that this isnt typical. This guy said he does painting for a motorcycle museum in South Dakota.

Considering one roll of 3/4" 3M masking tape cost 16 bux a roll and a quart of clear w/hardener is over $200 these days that's almost a bargain with the cost of quality materials coming in at about half of that quote. If the guy's good, that quote isn't out of line and he's only pocketing about a grand. Even 12 years ago I used to charge $800 just for doing a tank alone, and prices were less then half of what they are now for materials.

[jdub6092]

Just about every page of the engine tear down in the service manual calls for a special tool. Although Ive ammassed a decent amount of specific tools during this project, and unless I plan on making bike restorations a permanent hobby, I'm going to need to find some DIY substitutes. Found a nice little hack for making a clutch sleeve hub holder to remove the mounting nut. Just happened to have the correct size hole saw.20240304_060307.jpg
Going to need new clutch friction plates.
Next special tool to find a sub for is the crank case splitting tool.

Should be getting my frame and other black parts back from powder this week.
Looking forward to transition from tear down to build up.

[jdub6092]

Gloss black would be my call as well, that is what the factory used.

Hey kiwi the great, nice to see you here.
You are partly responsible for my vasilation on my black paint decisions not only because of your professed love for VHT satin black, but because of how nice it looked on your six fiddy.

I have decided to go with a gloss black on all but rotors, calipers.amd muffler brackets which will be VHT Satin.

Just got a quote for $400 for powder coating with 1-2 week lead time. Can't wait to have this back so I can start building back up.

On a sad note, I was quoted $1600-$1800 for tank, fender, covers and tail. I will get a few more quotes and hope that this isnt typical. This guy said he does painting for a motorcycle museum in South Dakota.

[nvr2old]

Thanks for the suggestion. There are two reasons why I am hesitating on gloss. A lot of comments about how every imperfection and dirt shows up, and mainly because the parts fiche lists a semigloss black and another black. The original was certainly some level of glossy, but not super high gloss.
Is it possible that it was originally semi-gloss with gloss clear. I'm sure there are gradations of gloss, so maybe I'm over thinking this.

As far as I know, Suzuki just painted them gloss black. Whoever powder coats it can get it about as smooth as it's gonna get when they sandblast the parts. It gets all the nooks and crannies. For years I used to spend crazy hours sanding, prepping and painting frames..until having my bike parts powder coated. My frame and all parts (in gloss) looked amazing when I got them back, and has held up beautifully since 2009. It's so nice dropping off parts and picking them up done and ready for reassembly.

[jdub6092]

20240215_150446.jpg About 4 hours of cleaning, stripping, sanding and scotchbrite, I have another piece almost ready for paint.
I sure could use a sandblaster!

[jdub6092]

I would powder coat all the frame parts the same, including the other parts you mentioned. Personally, I like gloss black. It easier to clean then a semi-gloss and it's closer to the factory finish.

Thanks for the suggestion. There are two reasons why I am hesitating on gloss. A lot of comments about how every imperfection and dirt shows up, and mainly because the parts fiche lists a semigloss black and another black. The original was certainly some level of glossy, but not super high gloss.
Is it possible that it was originally semi-gloss with gloss clear. I'm sure there are gradations of gloss, so maybe I'm over thinking this.

[jdub6092]

20240215_142311.jpg Another day, another tool.
I was able to depress the fork cap with a big screwdriver to expose the stopper ring, but keeping the tube stable and popping the ring out was becoming futile. After several near occasions of a brain aneurysm, I decided to buy a cheap set of gear pullers and attach the fork to the upper tree clamp. After about 30 seconds the ring was out. The rest of the disassembly was a piece of cake.

[Kiwi Canuck]

Gloss black would be my call as well, that is what the factory used.

[nvr2old]

I would powder coat all the frame parts the same, including the other parts you mentioned. Personally, I like gloss black. It easier to clean then a semi-gloss and it's closer to the factory finish.

[jdub6092]

Can I get some suggestions on black paint scheme.
I am going to have the frame and swingarm done in semi-gloss powder, but not sure about the kickstand, center stand, steering tree, airbox, battery holder, engine mounts, forks, exhaust mounts, etc. Thinking some of these will be done in satin. Would like to go with the original scheme, but can't really tell what that was.

[jdub6092]

20240210_205218.jpg Would be easier to pop this cap if it was still clamped on the bike. Have to press the top down while prying out the stopper. Think its going to be a two man job.

[jdub6092]

Finally got the bottom race out with the help of a $20 amazon tool. Actually, it might come in handy for installing wheel bearings.

Not a lot of progress this week. A little paint stripping and finding out that the fork caps are clips and not threaded caps like almost every other bike.
Will get painting scheduled this week.
Want some frame parts in semi gloss like the main frame and some in satin with clear like the forks. Would prefer the original scheme, but not sure what it was.
20240210_203036.jpg