Jdub goes there 1981 650e rebuild

[jdub6092]

I would powder coat all the frame parts the same, including the other parts you mentioned. Personally, I like gloss black. It easier to clean then a semi-gloss and it's closer to the factory finish.

Thanks for the suggestion. There are two reasons why I am hesitating on gloss. A lot of comments about how every imperfection and dirt shows up, and mainly because the parts fiche lists a semigloss black and another black. The original was certainly some level of glossy, but not super high gloss.
Is it possible that it was originally semi-gloss with gloss clear. I'm sure there are gradations of gloss, so maybe I'm over thinking this.

[jdub6092]

20240215_142311.jpg Another day, another tool.
I was able to depress the fork cap with a big screwdriver to expose the stopper ring, but keeping the tube stable and popping the ring out was becoming futile. After several near occasions of a brain aneurysm, I decided to buy a cheap set of gear pullers and attach the fork to the upper tree clamp. After about 30 seconds the ring was out. The rest of the disassembly was a piece of cake.

[Kiwi Canuck]

Gloss black would be my call as well, that is what the factory used.

[nvr2old]

I would powder coat all the frame parts the same, including the other parts you mentioned. Personally, I like gloss black. It easier to clean then a semi-gloss and it's closer to the factory finish.

[jdub6092]

Can I get some suggestions on black paint scheme.
I am going to have the frame and swingarm done in semi-gloss powder, but not sure about the kickstand, center stand, steering tree, airbox, battery holder, engine mounts, forks, exhaust mounts, etc. Thinking some of these will be done in satin. Would like to go with the original scheme, but can't really tell what that was.

[jdub6092]

20240210_205218.jpg Would be easier to pop this cap if it was still clamped on the bike. Have to press the top down while prying out the stopper. Think its going to be a two man job.

[jdub6092]

Finally got the bottom race out with the help of a $20 amazon tool. Actually, it might come in handy for installing wheel bearings.

Not a lot of progress this week. A little paint stripping and finding out that the fork caps are clips and not threaded caps like almost every other bike.
Will get painting scheduled this week.
Want some frame parts in semi gloss like the main frame and some in satin with clear like the forks. Would prefer the original scheme, but not sure what it was.
20240210_203036.jpg

[Nessism]

Knowing where to draw the line on "good enough" is an age-old quandary. Good luck with that! What you have shown so far suggests you are going to have ONE FINE ride when done. Take that for what it's worth...

Yeah, I used Gun Kote on my wheels and brake calipers. It's less affected by brake fluid and solvents than common rattle can paint. If I were to reset, I'd use Cerakote. If you have a compressor, sandblaster, spray gun, and an anal desire to make things the best they can be, that's the play, in my opinion.

[jdub6092]

20240204_145546.jpg Spent most of Saturday prepping the frame.
Aircraft remover only took off about 30%, followed by a stripping disc and stiff brass cup brush. Still about 40% to go and almost all of the tight areas remain.
Other than installing the carburetors (which I will eventually get to do again), I don't look forward to this type of work. Just might farm this out to a sand blaster shop.

[jdub6092]

Looking GOOD!

One thing with painting the wheels...If you are the type to use solvent to clean chain lube splatter, then rattle can paint is not a good play. You may want to leave well enough alone, on the paint front. Some guys get their wheels powder coated, which would be good. It's all about the escalation effect!

I saw that you got your Kawi rims gun coated. Was that pretty expensive?
20240204_142821.jpg So far I have rattle-canned the rear rotor and caliper hanger bracket with VHT Satin Black Caliper paint. These are the only ones I baked in my light bulb oven (with heat gun assist). Got it close to 200F.
I also rattled the seat pan and all three calipers with Duplicolor acrylic epoxy. These were part of my learning curve as it only took a few drops of brake fluid to eat both primer and paint clean off right next to the banjo fitting. I thought I had the fluid purged and wiped off, but it might have been a drip that melted it. Anyways, the calipers will need to be redone.
Seat pan already showing scrapes where it slides into the frame.

[Nessism]

Looking GOOD!

One thing with painting the wheels...If you are the type to use solvent to clean chain lube splatter, then rattle can paint is not a good play. You may want to leave well enough alone, on the paint front. Some guys get their wheels powder coated, which would be good. It's all about the escalation effect!

[jdub6092]

20240204_125245.jpg Front rim cleaned up and ready for bearings, tube.and Bridgestone Battlax tire.
Inner dark graphite (?) paint a bit faded in places, so about 50/50 whether to get it recoated.

[Grimly]

Run a bead of weld along the inside of the bearing cup, it will drop out when it cools and shrinks.
When fitting the new one, I just knock them down until they seat. The frame makers leave a ledge for that purpose.

[jdub6092]

20240204_055500.jpg Don't think there is a standard tool for removing this race as it flares out and cant be reached from the top with a drift or screw driver. Looks like I'll need to cut it out like on Ed's KZ750 rebuild.

It's also not flush with the bottom, nor does it butt up to the retaining lip above and is skewed. Didn't have a problem with steering though. The bearing was tinted orange from the rust and a bit on the tight side.

A little confused as to how far in to install the new race as most I've seen are inserted flush with the bottom of the neck. Thinking that it is inserted flush and cranking down the tree will determine the final position. Have a couple of weeks to figure it out as it's time to prep and paint the frame.

[jdub6092]

I am not an engine builder, but twice I've used the dingleberry hone that Ed linked above. I think I did OK. Don't remember which grit. I could look when I get home and see if I still have the package it came in. You can find numerous videos on youtube on the proper technique, and decide which, if any, you want to follow. I used Marvel Mystery Oil as Lube. Not specifically recommending that, either. Watch some videos and decide for yourself.
This my my result:

Looks great Rich. I'll use that close-up as a guide for obtaining the 45 degree cross hatch pattern that is required.