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Jdub goes there 1981 650e rebuild

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  • jdub6092
    replied
    Originally posted by Kiwi Canuck View Post
    Wow that is amazing, nice work.
    Thanks! Nice to see you check in Kiwi.

    Just about ready to wrap this project up and do a final reveal video. Just one side cover to go.
    Actually enjoying painting and getting better with each piece. Got lucky with color match as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kiwi Canuck
    replied
    Wow that is amazing, nice work.

    Leave a comment:


  • jdub6092
    replied
    Applying the two piece fender decals was a bit of a challenge because I could see the straight portions would need to be cut during installation. Not perfect (you can see the overlap up close) but after the 3-1/2 additional clear coats, the finish is immaculate. Don't think I'll need to cut and buff.

    20250609_073003(2).jpg

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  • steve murdoch
    replied
    Originally posted by jdub6092 View Post
    After scuffing up and installing decals and more clear.
    Not great, but not bad for a hobbyist.

    20250531_120344.jpg
    Hobbyist? Looks great!

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  • jdub6092
    replied
    BTW, The Aeropro A610a LVLP spray gun is quite good. Maybe the best budget gun available. Under $100 on Amazon and comes with three tips. Sprays like butter.

    Tried to get by with the HF $9 (sale) gun and had to start all over. Does primer OK. Have seen pros do a decent job with it, but its a pain to dial in for hobbyists. Wasted a half pint of PPG Deltron ($120). Ended up using Matrix Edge paint at 1/4 the price. Time will tell.

    Leave a comment:


  • jdub6092
    replied
    Finally my problem child.
    Only used adhesion promoter and 2k primer sealer. As the primer/paint shrunk, a crack was exposed. The long peg was not broken on this cover.
    So sanded down to plastic and applied plastic bonder again. This time I will patch with primer filler, then try my luck at blending. Now that the decal is on, there's no going back.

    20250531_142402(1).jpg

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  • jdub6092
    replied
    And here's one side cover that is the worst piece so far.
    Decal got a few dust bunnies underneath and bunched in one area at the top. Also I was running out of clear and has some medium orange peel. Low grit sanding and polishing should take care of that. 20250531_140521(1).jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • jdub6092
    replied
    Originally posted by Griffin View Post
    That looks really good, and it's a close up shot. If all the opther pieces come out that well, (the tank is the toughest), it will be a great, professional-looking job for a fraction of the cost of a professional paint job.

    The last couple quotes I got for painting old GS/KZ style bike parts with no fairings came in over $2,000.
    Thankfully, I found an NOS tank, so I dont have that to worry about. I may yet paint my original though.
    Here's the fender and it looks like glass. There are some reflections that are deceiving, but this is the best piece so far. Still need to scuff and apply decals as it fell and had to fill a little dent.
    20250531_122202(1).jpg

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  • Griffin
    replied
    That looks really good, and it's a close up shot. If all the opther pieces come out that well, (the tank is the toughest), it will be a great, professional-looking job for a fraction of the cost of a professional paint job.

    The last couple quotes I got for painting old GS/KZ style bike parts with no fairings came in over $2,000.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rich82GS750TZ
    replied
    Looks good from here. Well done!

    Leave a comment:


  • jdub6092
    replied
    After scuffing up and installing decals and more clear.
    Not great, but not bad for a hobbyist.

    20250531_120344.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • jdub6092
    replied
    More learning trying to paint silver metallic.
    Thought I had absorbed enough knowledge to give it a go. Wrong!
    First attempt was a fail. Metallics were somewhat moddled and I couldnt live with the results. So I stripped everything down again and watched another 50 videos on painting silver metallics until I was getting confused by all the can't miss methods.
    Finally settled on two wet coats, with the second at a 5psi lower than the first, followed by a drop coat with air down another few psi and paint volume reduced a half turn and 8-10 inches away to 'orient' the metallics.
    After about 15 minutes, applied a light coat of clear, then two wet coats.
    There are a few minor flaws, but overall pleased with the results.

    20250524_102200(1).jpgThe Photo doesn't do a great job of bringing out the glitter and gloss.

    Leave a comment:


  • jdub6092
    replied
    Originally posted by Griffin View Post
    The GS650E side covers are much flimsier than the side covers on most other GS models. I dunno why, but they are.

    Very prone to breaking. Mke sure you have soft grommets, that helps. Old hardened rubber is much more likely to cause a breakage.
    Not sure if I've seen any side covers on ebay that don't have the long peg broken and often a chunk of ABS taken out where it was attached.

    I replaced most grommets on the bike including the side cover ones. Put a little lube on them and they are snug, but come off with little effort. The key I think is to pull straight out and evenly on both sides.

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  • Griffin
    replied
    The GS650E side covers are much flimsier than the side covers on most other GS models. I dunno why, but they are.

    Very prone to breaking. Mke sure you have soft grommets, that helps. Old hardened rubber is much more likely to cause a breakage.

    Leave a comment:


  • jdub6092
    replied
    Almost as inevitable as death, taxes and GS stock regulators failing, are broken side cover studs on many bike brands.

    I had a broken stud on the left side cover with a few spider cracks that appeared on the outside, but not too bad and only visible at close range.

    There are dozens of suggestions on how to repair these depending on severity. This is what I settled on.

    First I used a plastic welder with metal "staples" along and just beyond the cracks. Then filled in with melted plastic and smoothed out. Made sure to keep the area of stud separation clear of filler. I pressed some JB Weld Plastic Bonder over the repaired area and into the cracks on the outside.
    After that it took me quite a while to settle on the method of reattaching the stud. I considered using the superglue and baking soda method, but that dried instantly and would not work well at the point of contact. Maybe I could use it for reinforcement after the stud was reattached.
    I did a test and it dried hard as a rock, but seemed somewhat brittle. ​PVC glue also seemed like an option.

    Then I saw how rock hard the Plastic Bonder over the repair areas was and it sanded like hard plastic as well.
    So I went with the JB Plastic Bonder. Could not get a clamp to keep it in place, so I had to hold it down with both hands for about five minutes before I could let go.
    Now that it is cured, it is quite strong. Just need to remember to pull the side cover straight out when removing and it should last a long time.

    20250415_061827.jpg
    A little messy, but I won't have to look at it.

    Leave a comment:

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