Jdub goes there 1981 650e rebuild

[jdub6092]

I have a heavy finger when it comes to painting with rattle cans. Even using satin black, most everything I paint looks rather glossy.
These Instrument bezels look a bit too shiny. Aside from repainting and using all light coats, is there a way to flatten this finish?

20240518_225526.jpg Needles and flourescent orange paint on the way.

[jdub6092]

Take this for what it's worth, but unless you can get the exact master kit you need, OEM, not aftermarket, and the bore inside the master is clean and free of pits, then I'd dump and run and install a different master.

I've got one of these on my bike and it's been great...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204594824265

Hey Ed,

I finally resigned myself to the fact that I won't likely find the front MC rebuild kit. It is pretty rare and only used on a few bikes, so not worth it for K&L, All Balls, etc. to offer it. Another mistake - I didn't remove the piston prior to powder coat and the boot got trashed. Rest is probably OK.
So I grabbed this off of ebay.

20240516_162909.jpg

[jdub6092]

Another Pic of my new rear Venhill brake line/rebuilt caliper painted with VHT Satin Caliper paint already being infested with dust.

20240516_161709.jpg

[jdub6092]

I had luck using an EX300 master cylinder on the rear. Needed a bit of work to get it to fit but not too much..... Cheap and should be able to get parts for many more years. Thread on here somewhere!

My rear master cylinder was in pretty good shape. I serviced it and put it back together.
Then I ordered, what looked like the elusive front master cylinder rebuild kit, but it ended up being the rear kit. So I decided to install it.
Could not find the front kit, so I did purchase a new front MC assembly along with the clutch lever. I really only needed the dust boot.
There are a few used front MC assemblies on EBAY that have my same piston assy, but all look worse than mine did and the boot is llikely just as torn up.

20240516_160310.jpg Rear master with new Venhill line.

[Nessism]

Take this for what it's worth, but unless you can get the exact master kit you need, OEM, not aftermarket, and the bore inside the master is clean and free of pits, then I'd dump and run and install a different master.

I've got one of these on my bike and it's been great...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204594824265

[salty_monk]

I had luck using an EX300 master cylinder on the rear. Needed a bit of work to get it to fit but not too much..... Cheap and should be able to get parts for many more years. Thread on here somewhere!

[jdub6092]

Decided to farm out engine work. Having the cylinders honed, rings fitted and head surfaces decked.
I already had three valve cover bolts that were absolutely welded to the threads and had to get help with that.
Will also be getting all but crank bead blasted which will save a ton of additional prep time for painting.
I've already made enough mistakes with this rebuild due to either not knowing or paying enough attention to fine details. Thankfully, Ive been able to correct all screwups so far. Not willing to risk it on my powerplant though.
Maybe next time.
Project is really starting to take shape. Pics coming soon.

[Lorenzo]

Perfect, that's the color

[jdub6092]

Bias play tires are a no go for home enthusiast (IMO)
Have you considered filleting in black the outward facing part of the rim or more subtly the inner vertical one?

I was previously able to get the rear tire bead to seat after a second inflation with the core installed, so I thought the front would be a piece of cake. Ha. If there is a next time, I would have an air fitting that pushes air with the core removed and then not be too afraid to over-inflate the tube one time to get the bead to seat. But you are probably right to skip the hassle and let professionals with the right equipment do the job and be done with it.

Im shooting for a stock restoration as much as possible, so I would plan to just re-paint the inner rim in a dark grey. I think the paint is named dark metal cast gray.
The decision to do this and additional fine detailing rests on how well the bike runs.

[Lorenzo]

but could not get the bead to seat on my new Dunlop tire. After weeks of trying every method I could find and eventually pinching the tube, i took it to my local m/c shop. Was in and out in 5 minutes. I didnt go past 50 psi, but they did and that did the trick.

20240428_124600.jpg

Bias play tires are a no go for home enthusiast (IMO)
Have you considered filleting in black the outward facing part of the rim or more subtly the inner vertical one?

[jdub6092]

What is keeping me from progressing on the engine is four valve cover bolts that broke off and were absolutely fused into the threads. Tried everything short of welding.
Tried reverse drill on one and trashed the whole socket which is now out of shape.
Got a quote from a shop. The guy didn't sound very enthusiastic, but said he could get it done. I also got a quote for decking the head surfaces.

20240428_132547.jpg Here are two of them.

[jdub6092]

I do have the main fuse cover. Just to illustrate the obsession I've developed, I wanted to show that I cleaned and polished the inside as well (including the back side which I will never see again).

20240428_130620.jpg

[jdub6092]

As I go along, I'm noticing some OCD tendencies. Can't move forward until every piece of hardware is cleaned and polished.
Here is what I accomplished this morning - getting the airbox built up.

20240428_125754.jpg

Anyone know how to re- rubberized the clamps. Notice how the integrated cable clamps got crusty from the powder coat baking.

[jdub6092]

Been awhile since I posted.

The further I get along in this rebuild process, I keep finding more that needs to be done.
My engine is still torn apart, but at least got the crank cleaned up and ready for paint and new clutch plates installed.
Thanks to my $20 HF torque wrench, I overtightened the hub pressure plate and broke two bolts. Thankfully, I was able to draw them out with reverse drill bits and after using a thread chaser, found that no further damage was done to the threads. After my 5th order to Partzilla for clutch plate screws and other items and purchase of an electronic torque sensor added to my torque wrench, I got the clutch plate properly installed.
Also had to add a helicoil insert to a stripped fork drain hole. Worked out well. Forks rebuild done.
Installed bearings on the front wheel, but could not get the bead to seat on my new Dunlop tire. After weeks of trying every method I could find and eventually pinching the tube, i took it to my local m/c shop. Was in and out in 5 minutes. I didnt go past 50 psi, but they did and that did the trick.

20240428_124600.jpg

[jdub6092]

Got my parts back from powder coat. Pretty happy with the way they turned out. It was overcast, so this photo doesn't quite bring out the gloss. It will definitely pop once I get it built back up.

20240611_161315.jpg